Shaker Pro System Upgrade - Speaker Suggestions (Fr/Rear)

[Copley17]

I am looking to upgrade the Shaker Pro system in my ’17. It has been over 10 years since I’ve put a system together, so looking for some advice on component selection.

I would like to go with a 5 channel amp, a front component set (either 2 or 3-way), 6.5 coax in the rear deck, and of course a sub in the trunk. Center channel would be gone.

Not looking for competition level performance, just something that is good value.

I will use the Rockford DSR1 w/ Maestro AR T-Harness to pull the LV inputs and plan to use the factory speaker wiring from the molex connectors that used to plug into the factory amp.

For an amp I am thinking of the JL XD1000/5v2 which looks like it will power the 12TW3 nicely, and give me 75w x4 for the front and rear stage.

A couple questions:
Need suggestions for front and rear stage speakers. Hoping to spend ~$500 on fronts and ~$150 on rears. Partial to Hertz, JL, or Focal

According to Crutchfield, there are not a lot of 3-way component sets that fit the mustang. Is there a measurable benefit to a 3-way over a 2-way set?

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[UserName]

To properly utilize the dsp, you need a separate amp channel per speaker. The exception being the subs if you have multiple.

 

[Copley17]

Would you suggest i just ditch the rear fill and crossovers and run 4 channels to the front stage with the dsp?

 

[UserName]

Yes. It will save you money initially, and if you do decide you want rear fill you can always add it later.

I don't have a center channel or rear deck speakers running at all and with a properly set up DSP, you don't even know. I wish I could demo a two way front set vs. a three way setup to experience if there is a noticeable difference.

As always, focus on the quality of the install and your ears will thank you.

 

[tcclindy]

I went with the DSR1 and the JL Audio XD1000/5v2.

Front : JL Audio C5-650
Rear : JL Audio C5-650x
Sub : JL Audio HO112-W6v3

I ditched the 3.5 into the door and center channel, The ran ch 1 & 2 to the front crossovers to power the tweets and sub in the door, rears ch 3 & 4 went to crossovers for the rear, those factory 3.5s in the door were a POS. I really wanted to go with JL Audio C5-653 but I didn’t want to carve up the front doors. Love my setup, I put the amp and crossovers on a nice board in the spare tire wheel well.

 

[Copley17]

I went with the DSR1 and the JL Audio XD1000/5v2.

Front : JL Audio C5-650
Rear : JL Audio C5-650x
Sub : JL Audio HO112-W6v3

I ditched the 3.5 into the door and center channel, The ran ch 1 & 2 to the front crossovers to power the tweets and sub in the door, rears ch 3 & 4 went to crossovers for the rear, those factory 3.5s in the door were a POS. I really wanted to go with JL Audio C5-653 but I didn’t want to carve up the front doors. Love my setup, I put the amp and crossovers on a nice board in the spare tire wheel well.

Do you do much tuning with the DSP or basically just use it to get a clean signal?

 

[tcclindy]

Do you do much tuning with the DSP or basically just use it to get a clean signal?

My amp crossovers are set off atm, still playing with system, my speaker crossovers have adjustments as well. I just got this installed today, need to play around with it more. Sound good so far.

 

[UserName]

Do you do much tuning with the DSP or basically just use it to get a clean signal?

You do the time alignment and equalization with the DSP. The source should be as flat as possible to start with and there are products that do this, or you can do it with forscan, there’s a huge thread on that.

The time alignment makes sure each speaker emits sound in an order that the sound reaches your ears at the same time regardless of where they (the speakers, not ears) are placed, while the EQ takes your cars weird acoustics into account and corrects the frequencies that are off.

Most of the point of the DSP is thrown out the window if each channel isn’t amplified separately and tuned properly though.


I’d recommend reading the guide from Audio frog.

https://testgear.audiofrog.com/wp-c...Process-and-Some-Notes-About-Why-it-Works.pdf

 

[UserName]

I went with the DSR1 and the JL Audio XD1000/5v2.

Front : JL Audio C5-650
Rear : JL Audio C5-650x
Sub : JL Audio HO112-W6v3

I ditched the 3.5 into the door and center channel, The ran ch 1 & 2 to the front crossovers to power the tweets and sub in the door, rears ch 3 & 4 went to crossovers for the rear, those factory 3.5s in the door were a POS. I really wanted to go with JL Audio C5-653 but I didn’t want to carve up the front doors. Love my setup, I put the amp and crossovers on a nice board in the spare tire wheel well.

Pics man! Sounds like a solid setup. I see you are still setting it up and I would like you to try bypassing the crossovers and run each front channel on their own amp channel before you make it final. The DSP will process the sound for each speaker’s requirements thereby eliminating the need for power robbing crossovers.

 

[autobahnGT350]

Waiting on my custom install similar to yours.
Fronts: JL Audio C7 650 2 way component
Rears: JL Audio C7 650 2 way component
Amps: JL Audio VXi 8 channel DSP amp (component speakers), JL Audio SD 300 (subwoofer)
Sub: JL Audio Stealthbox

Will be picking up this Friday.

 

[jperls]

Going to add to this thread...just got my car back from the shop. Be aware I have the base 6-speaker system. Here is my setup:
1. Hertz MPK 165.3 Pro component speakers in front (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301MPK1653/Hertz-MPK-165-3-PRO.html)
2. Kenwood Excelon XR901-5 Amplifier (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XR9015/Kenwood-Excelon-XR901-5.html)
3. JL Stealth box (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13694617/JL-Audio-Stealthbox.html)
4. Stock rear speakers

There are a couple of things that I am planning on doing in the future:
1. Replace stock rear speakers with Hertz MPX 165.3...https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301MPX1653/Hertz-MPX-165-3-PRO.html)
5. Add a JL TwK88 Digital Signal Processor (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13698101/JL-Audio-TwK-88-System-Tuning-Processor.html)

Even without the rear speakers or the signal processor...its a fantastic system. Really recommend the Hertz speakers and subwoofer.

Good luck with your project

 

[tcclindy]

I went with the DSR1 and the JL Audio XD1000/5v2.

Front : JL Audio C5-650
Rear : JL Audio C5-650x
Sub : JL Audio HO112-W6v3

I ditched the 3.5 into the door and center channel, The ran ch 1 & 2 to the front crossovers to power the tweets and sub in the door, rears ch 3 & 4 went to crossovers for the rear, those factory 3.5s in the door were a POS. I really wanted to go with JL Audio C5-653 but I didn’t want to carve up the front doors. Love my setup, I put the amp and crossovers on a nice board in the spare tire wheel well.

Not a happy camper at all, this amp does not get loud enough for me, the installer said he configured it for maximum output and I should adjust levels down to my sound settings. I told the guy down I can barely hear it as it is and the sub is non-existent. For what’s there, it sounds beautiful just not loud enough and not nearly enough bass. Full volume is like half volume of my stock amp not sure if the problem is with the amp or the dsr1.

 

[Racemaster]

I was in the same boat with the JL stuff.It just doesn't have enough power.75 watts @ 4 ohms is not going to make you happy.
I would say it needs at least 100 to get where you want it.
I wound up ripping it all out and going with a Helix P-Six.It's 120 watts @ 4 ohms and six channels.I also went active at the same time.
I put a separate 1,000 watt amp in the back just for the sub.It is overkill and turned way down.500 watts for the sub should do it.

 

[Copley17]

Not a happy camper at all, this amp does not get loud enough for me, the installer said he configured it for maximum output and I should adjust levels down to my sound settings. I told the guy down I can barely hear it as it is and the sub is non-existent. For what’s there, it sounds beautiful just not loud enough and not nearly enough bass. Full volume is like half volume of my stock amp not sure if the problem is with the amp or the dsr1.

This is concerning... i went with a similar setup to you, but with the XD700/5v2.

Let me know how it goes with tuning the DSR1 and or amp.

 

[jperls]

Not a happy camper at all, this amp does not get loud enough for me, the installer said he configured it for maximum output and I should adjust levels down to my sound settings. I told the guy down I can barely hear it as it is and the sub is non-existent. For what’s there, it sounds beautiful just not loud enough and not nearly enough bass. Full volume is like half volume of my stock amp not sure if the problem is with the amp or the dsr1.

Do you know how everything was wired? If the speakers and amp were wired directly into the ACM wiring right after the head-unit and did not bypass the factory amplifier..that migh be why there is a problem.You may need to change your Forescan codes. I think you may need to change to "internal variable" (so it should be 727-01-01: xx0x xxxx)....the only reason the code would read 727-01-01: xx5x is if you have RCA lines coming out of the plug at the ACM (not sure which pins). Double check this and see if it makes a difference.

Again, I am not entirely sure about this...just going off of my setup in where I had a base unit (no factory amplifier)...so I think that might be the problem is that your factory amplifier is not being bypassed. Honestly, I am running a very similar setup and for me 75 watts RMS per speaker and 600 watts for the sub is plenty of power...running just the front woofer and tweeters, stock rear speakers, and JL subwoofer. Something has gone wrong with the wiring (cross-talk) or you need to re-examine Forscan coding.

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