Anytime, and no this service can not be done in the car it must be done on a CNC Machining Center for proper depth/position. The block must be 100% bare as well because it locate's through the main's so you would have to have your other assembled long block fully apart as well.Thanks for the info !
Is it possible to do the 12 mm conversion with the motor in the car (I doubt it ) ?
What are the the other “head retention
procedures “ ?
I am lifting the heads in my KB car at just below 1000 whp with the 11 mm heads studs so looking for options without pulling motor .
I do have another assembled long block(sleeved 15-17 block with the 11mm head studs ) which will replace the one in the car now .
Will I need to take it apart to do the conversion ?
1000 Wheel seem's to be the average power that the 11mm head stud's will survive, beyond that the 12mm stud's ( Down to the Main Journal's Like the Gen 1 11-12 block's and Gen 2 5.2L Blocks) is highly recommend along with other cylinder head retention procedure's to help with head lift.
Anytime, and no this service can not be done in the car it must be done on a CNC Machining Center for proper depth/position. The block must be 100% bare as well because it locate's through the main's so you would have to have your other assembled long block fully apart as well.
Other option's for improved cylinder head sealing is O-ringing the Sleeve's so you can use a stainless steel ring around the cylinder's with the OEM MLS head gasket's this procedure must also be done with the engine bare as well. This is by far the best option out there under high boost.
If you wanted to try something without pulling the motor I would suggest trying the JE Pro Seal MLS head gasket's they look very promising.
Hope this help's!
Highly recommend to stick with Coyote Specific machine shop's for something like this. LME, MPR, Livernois, RPG, etc.My question is this something any good machine shop can do? I only see one vendor out there offering it.
https://www.lmengines.com/11mm-to-12-mm-head-bolts-thread-conversion.html
Still lifting the heads despite the gaskets and ARP head studs .Anytime! Oh very nice. So far so good with those head gasket's ??
There is pro's and con's to both like you said and if you really want to make some serious power and not stress about the block the best thing as I'm sure you know is the BEAR Coyote Block or the new Predator 5.2L Block
Oh man, well that's not good those gasket's where supposed to help keep it sealed when the head's lift.Still lifting the heads despite the gaskets and ARP head studs .
I like the predator block . How different is it from the old vooodo block ?
Both use the 12 mm head bolts .
That’s interesting . I had assumed the Gen 2 5.2L block WAS the predator block .Oh man, well that's not good those gasket's where supposed to help keep it sealed when the head's lift.
Well the Gen 2 5.2L block ( Current production GT350 block ) and the upcoming Predator 5.2L Block are actually different but both new 5.2L blocks do have the longer cylinder head thread's from the factory, along with increased structural support and improved PAC liner's
PM sentThat’s interesting . I had assumed the Gen 2 5.2L block WAS the predator block .
Do you know how the predator block is different ?