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The true reason unveild behind Gen3 coyote tick. According to MPR racing engines

GT Pony

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A lot of the holy crap fails are from management or the engineers
The other side of the "holy crap coin" is all the engineering and specs are great on paper, but manufacturing can't seem to build things to the engineering specifications - ie, manufacturing and QA problems.
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GT Pony

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The thing about assembly is that every step is tracked, anally in fact. Bar codes, times, pictures and so forth will quckly identify techs not doing things correctly.
I'm talking about making every individual part correctly per the drawings and specifications. Assembly is the easy part. Making all the parts to fit together correctly is the hard part and way more open to causing issues than final assembly is.

In the tick case, I stand by my theory it's the sum of the parts.
Why?
If it was an engineering spec all cars would tick, they don't.
If it was an assembly problem, it would have been fixed long ago.
But now we have a tolerance problem where each part itself is in spec but when assembled with other parts in spec the entire assembly on some motors might be out of spec.
The part in red could occur, and that would obviously be an assembly problem. Again, if all the engineering is spot on, but the manufacturing processes and QA is lacking then things can go sideways. Production is a big machine made up of many cogs ... just takes one cog to screw up to cause problems.

Same goes with vendors who make and supply individual parts. If they are not made to the correct engineering specs then things fall apart if those parts are not identified as "bad" and make it into final assembly.
 

BlueCollarDaily

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What was your copper number?

Just got my oil analysis back from Blackstone labs. My car has had the tick and 2kish rattle noise since 800 miles and it's loud. The oil that was sent in for analysis was used from 1k miles to around 4300 miles. In that time I beat the ever living crap out of the car. Launching it from a stop at least 50 times, used the line lock burnout feature a few times, and multiple 1st,2nd and 3rd gear rolling pulls, I even did a high speed pull up to about 130 mph. If the engine was damaged, it would clearly show up in this sample. Long story short, it came back showing normal wear and no abnormal amounts of metal or any other contaminants found in the oil. And by the way, I've had absolutely 0 issues with the car overall.

Now, on to my non-expert opinion on the coyote tick, and what I'm personally going to do about mine. First off, I'm not doing anything. Not taking it in unless the engine pops. And depending on how satisfied I am with the performance of the car this year, I'm not afraid to get it tuned or put forced induction on it. But as of now, no plans to. I think the tick and rattle in low rpm is from loose tolerances in the engine, which isn't automatically a bad thing. Check out the video entitled "tick" a few pages back of the guy with the oil pan off moving the bearing showing it's loose side to side tolerance. That sounded exactly like the tick I hear and it is the best non speculative evidence I've seen. And if that's what's causing it, it doesn't bother me. A high revving high performance motor making some lower rpm noise isn't really such a huge deal. Especially since it sings so nicely when revved up. When I send my car through the revs, I wonder who could ever think somethings wrong with this engine. I think people that have scoring on the cylinder walls and other engine failures have issues unrelated to the tick. As to why some cars have it and some don't? I really don't know. But mine has it and I don't think anythings wrong with it. I do think the "issue" is blown out of proportion by youtube clickbaiters, ford haters and even 1st and 2nd gen coyote owners trying to feel like they still have the superior coyote engine. So I put a quart of high performance lucas oil stabilizer in when I did my last oil change and that's about all I'm gonna do about my ticking coyote. But I have a feeling I'll be enjoying it for a long time to come! Honestly, It's already handled more abuse than I think just about any other car I've ever had would and I think it's ready for a lot more!
 

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The other side of the "holy crap coin" is all the engineering and specs are great on paper, but manufacturing can't seem to build things to the engineering specifications - ie, manufacturing and QA problems.
Yes sir and this is why the early s550s had all sorts of odd issues like fenders that where way off, hood that didnā€™t match up, stuff that canā€™t be fix in a closed environment. It has to be run on line with workers
 
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Yes sir and this is why the early s550s had all sorts of odd issues like fenders that where way off, hood that didnā€™t match up, stuff that canā€™t be fix in a closed environment. It has to be run on a line with a workers
What's funny, is I want to specifically keep the Mustang I have, because the body panel alignment on mine is absolutely stellar. It reminds me of the alignment you would see on a late 90's Honda Accord. Almost perfect. About the only thing with a small gap is one of the headlights.

Too bad the engine ticks and rattles like a late 60's hippy fest.
 

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What was your copper number?
copper was 6, says the average is 3. Some of my metals were higher and some lower than average. But the description said the wear looked normal for an engine with about 1k miles more than I have. I attribute that to the abuse it's taken. Like I've said, it makes nothing but good noise after 2k and feels like it's running strong. I really don't care, I'm just gonna enjoy it. If it was rattling at 7k that would be a different story, but some low rpm noise, it just doesn't scare me like it does some others. If the motor goes and it's under warranty still it's fords problem. If i've tuned it by then and they wont warranty it then it's my problem and I'll take the responsibility for taking that risk.
 

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I

Stop blaming Chinese it just makes you seem racist. In either case the fault is all Fords. American factories can pump out low quality shit just like anyone else. Our low quality shit just costs more and charges more because it says "Made In USA" on it. Doesn't mean its actually any bit better quality.
AWESOME! We even get racist post for the BBQ tick.....someone alert buzzfeed!
 

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What's funny, is I want to specifically keep the Mustang I have, because the body panel alignment on mine is absolutely stellar. It reminds me of the alignment you would see on a late 90's Honda Accord. Almost perfect. About the only thing with a small gap is one of the headlights.

Too bad the engine ticks and rattles like a late 60's hippy fest.
Panel gaps can be adjusted. Strangest explanation for wanting a car...
 

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What's funny, is I want to specifically keep the Mustang I have, because the body panel alignment on mine is absolutely stellar.
Panel gaps can be adjusted. Strangest explanation for wanting a car...
Then it follows that bad alignment would the strangest reason for NOT wanting a car.
 

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Dfeeds

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Panel gaps can be adjusted. Strangest explanation for wanting a car...
Makes sense to me... do a trade and play the engine roulette and gamble with everything else, or just keep what he has and hopes for the best. I know that not everyone has the tick, but I really need to see a video of a cold 2018/2019 NOT rattling to be convinced that they all don't do it to some degree.
 

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Makes sense to me... do a trade and play the engine roulette and gamble with everything else, or just keep what he has and hopes for the best. I know that not everyone has the tick, but I really need to see a video of a cold 2018/2019 NOT rattling to be convinced that they all don't do it to some degree.
Honestly, I have not found one that doesn't have some rattle around the 2k mark yet.
 

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The noise is not just exclusive to modular Fords. Every mustang GT engine since 1986 I have owned has made quite a bit of rattling between two and 3000 RPM. My 86 GT did it, my 88 5 L LX did it, my 95 GT did it, my 99 cobra 4.6 does it, the 2016 GT I had did it, and the 2019 GT does it with 5k miles. If you vary the throttle in that range when the engine is cold, you will notice that the rattle depends on load. This might mean piston slap or bearing clearance. It doesnā€™t really matter unless it is just really loud. Not that some people have very loudly ticking engines. Iā€™m sure thatā€™s true, and that should be addressed.

A switch to 5W-30 or 10W-30 might actually cure the problem. I havenā€™t read back in this thread to see if anyone has tried that, but my guess is that it might stop it. Anyway, with 32 valves, eight cylinders and nearly 500 hp, Iā€™m fine with my engine making a few rattles at low RPM. And I agree with the poster who said that the engine sings up to high rpm very nicely and still makes a ton of power. If it slings itself a part Iā€™ll take it to the dealership. Otherwise Iā€™m happy with it .
 

Lo Pony

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At least they named it Plasma arc wire transfer (PAWT), instead of ā€œthermal wire arc transferā€œ....Iā€™ll leave that for you guys to figure out
 

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At least they named it Plasma arc wire transfer (PAWT), instead of ā€œthermal wire arc transferā€œ....Iā€™ll leave that for you guys to figure out
They learned from NCR who developed a system named Card Random Access Processor. They quickly changed the word Processor to Memory and sent people to retrieve the manuals with big red CRAP on the covers from their beta customers.
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