Car swaying side to side at high speeds

[1bad66]

Did you reindex (clock) the bushings after lowering the car? They are set to a higher ride and tightened for that height. Lowering the car with that factory ride height they are now in a bind. Other members who did not reindex the bushings after lowering their car report what you did.
This link is long but full of a lot of good information.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-lowering-your-s550.44129/page-8#post-2282569

THIS ^^^^^^ I cannot stress the importance of resetting the neutral position on ALL pivot points. When you lower the car you place every pivot point bushing in a 'pre-loaded' condition, which is outside of it's required neutral position. You can experience 'bounciness', sway, touchy steering, uneven ride height etc....

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[TYGT350]

Did you reindex (clock) the bushings after lowering the car? They are set to a higher ride and tightened for that height. Lowering the car with that factory ride height they are now in a bind. Other members who did not reindex the bushings after lowering their car report what you did.
This link is long but full of a lot of good information.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-lowering-your-s550.44129/page-8#post-2282569

THIS ^^^^^^ I cannot stress the importance of resetting the neutral position on ALL pivot points. When you lower the car you place every pivot point bushing in a 'pre-loaded' condition, which is outside of it's required neutral position. You can experience 'bounciness', sway, touchy steering, uneven ride height etc....

Thanks for the response. A shop installed my springs but I have no idea if they did this. I'll have to have it done anyway to be sure. Is an additional alignment recommended after clocking the bushings?

 

[CEHollier]

Thanks for the response. A shop installed my springs but I have no idea if they did this. I'll have to have it done anyway to be sure. Is an additional alignment recommended after clocking the bushings?

You may be better off letting an alignment shop do it all. All four wheels have to have the cars weight on them to do it. It has to be done on a drive on ramp. I would do an alignment.

 

[RR5.0PP]

So I have an update on this whole situation. So a couple weeks ago I had a bunch of lights that came on the dash....abs. traction, airbag etc. Took my car to the dealer and they told me that my 1 inch spaces caused both rear wheel hubs go bad. Anyways I think this is the reason why my car was swaying side to side at high speeds & also triggering the lights on the dash.

They quoted me $1200 to replace both rear wheel hubs (yikes!). I dont know how they got an estimate so high if the hubs are less than $150 online. Labor was around $600 so I declined it. So now I have a weekend job to do.

 

[Jigar@Steeda]

So I have an update on this whole situation. So a couple weeks ago I had a bunch of lights that came on the dash....abs. traction, airbag etc. Took my car to the dealer and they told me that my 1 inch spaces caused both rear wheel hubs go bad. Anyways I think this is the reason why my car was swaying side to side at high speeds & also triggering the lights on the dash.

They quoted me $1200 to replace both rear wheel hubs (yikes!). I dont know how they got an estimate so high if the hubs are less than $150 online. Labor was around $600 so I declined it. So now I have a weekend job to do.

Majority of that sway is coming from the lack of bushings provided from the factory in the IRS. Our starter Stop the Hop will fill in the void in those bushing and then come back with the ingenious IRS braces to reinforce the entire subframe. I can gladly get you into the kit with a forum discounted price.

 

[NoVaGT]

So I have an update on this whole situation. So a couple weeks ago I had a bunch of lights that came on the dash....abs. traction, airbag etc. Took my car to the dealer and they told me that my 1 inch spaces caused both rear wheel hubs go bad. Anyways I think this is the reason why my car was swaying side to side at high speeds & also triggering the lights on the dash.

They quoted me $1200 to replace both rear wheel hubs (yikes!). I dont know how they got an estimate so high if the hubs are less than $150 online. Labor was around $600 so I declined it. So now I have a weekend job to do.

$1200.00????

You should tell us what dealership gave you that price, so we can all avoid them!!!

Also, Ford is having serious issues with rear wheel bearings. They're shit, and go out on many Mustangs, including mine.

The tech tried to tell me it was my Steeda suspension that caused the bearings to go bad, but that's technically impossible. Without putting additional stress on the bearings, they shouldn't go bad. Either Ford had an assembly issue where the bearings weren't torqued to the right spec from the factory, or they're under-sized, or they're cheaply made.

Many members here have had them go bad repeatedly, and it seems to be an issue for the PP cars in specific.

 

[Pauliejr]

So I have an update on this whole situation. So a couple weeks ago I had a bunch of lights that came on the dash....abs. traction, airbag etc. Took my car to the dealer and they told me that my 1 inch spaces caused both rear wheel hubs go bad. Anyways I think this is the reason why my car was swaying side to side at high speeds & also triggering the lights on the dash.

They quoted me $1200 to replace both rear wheel hubs (yikes!). I dont know how they got an estimate so high if the hubs are less than $150 online. Labor was around $600 so I declined it. So now I have a weekend job to do.

I replaced mine in the driveway on jack stands. Not bad at all just take your time. I had the same problem with no power steering and all the lights on.

 

[pike1346]

Has anyone else experienced this? The other day I was on the highway and i decided to do a hard pull. I noticed that the rear end of the car started to feel like it was moving side to side...almost like it was floating. I think it only does it when it's over 90mph/100mph. I drive around 80mph most of the time without any problem. The car is lowered on springs. Stock 19inch performance package wheels. Tires are pretty much brand new. Wheels were balanced and aligned after being lowered.

2015 GT PP

My 16 GT Prem has done this from day one. i have zero suspension upgrades. Replaced tires, and had alignment. Still does it. I usually do 80 too, and it is like tramlining all over the road, but tramlining is not the issue.

I plan on doing the GT350R sway bars and the IRS alignment kit, and the BMR lockout kit and bushings, but every time I get extra funds to buy, something very costly comes up and takes those fuking funds from me.

 

[1QwkEcoBoost]

I know this is an old thread but I had this issue bad, go over a pot hole or change lanes and the rear end wants to come around. Ended up being the rear wheel hubs. I changed both sides, the passenger side was frozen on the the splines. Had to rent a hub press tool to press the drive shaft out of the hub. Thought for sure my driveshaft was shot it was so hard to get out. I actually went with a Moog brand wheel hub from Rockauto. Since the factory hubs seem to prematurely fail for some reason. Besides breaking off an abs sensor, the install went ok. It's a pain in the ass but now the car drives perfect.

Thanks to others for sharing as this post is what put me down the path to the wheel hubs and finally fixing the car.

 

[moffetts]

It's always the damn hubs. I'm not sure if the Moog ones are any different but the Timken and OEM ones are identical.

 

[1QwkEcoBoost]

It's always the damn hubs. I'm not sure if the Moog ones are any different but the Timken and OEM ones are identical.

It’s hard to tell but I do like the Moog ones in the sense they put a coating on the threads of the wheel studs to prevent rust etc, plus given they are almost half the price of the factory part.

I’m just glad to have the car back together and I actually enjoy driving it again. That issue made the car sketchy to drive and zero fun.

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