New Motor Due to Tick and Explanation to why it happens...

[GT Pony]

My take on the sound/tone of the typewriter tick is that it's something valvetrain related. To me it sounds just like a pushrod engine that a hydraulic lifter is going south in, and there's a ton of valvetrain lash. Another theory is that it's hydraulic timing chain tensioner related, and there's intermittent slop in the chain guide that is "driven" by the tensioner - seems to me the cam sprockets aren't completely/perfectly round, which has to be interesting in terms of the tensioners keeping things in check.

I've never heard excessive rod side clearance to make that sort of sound, oil pressure "bleeding" between rods will dampen most if not all of that (you'd have to have a ton of side clearance to hear it, IMO). A bad rod bearing with excessive clearance to the crank journal is close, but not quite it either.

Lots of guys have reported their typewriter ticking was cured with a new short block, which means all the valve train and cam-chain components were re-used from the ticking engine. If it was valve train or cam-chain related just replacing the short block wouldn't have fixed the ticking.

Sponsored

 

[GT Pony]

I’m glad you brought up the Ceratec. What are your thoughts on it? Do you think it’s worth putting in and does it really protect the motor?

Lots of guys here have reported that Ceratec got rid of their typewriter tick. However, it doesn't seem to get rid of the 2000 RPM rattle, which is understandable since it's most likely caused by excessive piston to cylinder clearance (ie, piston slap).

If it was my car, I would only add Ceratec if it started ticking.

 

[Enzo]

My take on the sound/tone of the typewriter tick is that it's something valvetrain related. To me it sounds just like a pushrod engine that a hydraulic lifter is going south in, and there's a ton of valvetrain lash. Another theory is that it's hydraulic timing chain tensioner related, and there's intermittent slop in the chain guide that is "driven" by the tensioner - seems to me the cam sprockets aren't completely/perfectly round, which has to be interesting in terms of the tensioners keeping things in check.

I've never heard excessive rod side clearance to make that sort of sound, oil pressure "bleeding" between rods will dampen most if not all of that (you'd have to have a ton of side clearance to hear it, IMO). A bad rod bearing with excessive clearance to the crank journal is close, but not quite it either.

The problem is coming from the bottom, it has nothing to do with the heads. You can clearly hear it only come from the bottom end.

 

[kluke15]

Lots of guys have reported their typewriter ticking was cured with a new short block, which means all the valve train and cam-chain components were re-used from the ticking engine. If it was valve train or cam-chain related just replacing the short block wouldn't have fixed the ticking.

i thought a lot of the replaced engines were ticking too or at least thats what it seemed like from my reading.

 

[GT Pony]

i thought a lot of the replaced engines were ticking too or at least thats what it seemed like from my reading.

Some guys have reported that the replacement short block started ticking again after some miles were put on it, but not instantly after the replacement. Just like it usually takes some miles for the original engine to start ticking.

 

[Blown86GT]

The crankshaft seating had random clearance.

Still don't understand what this means??? Do you mean crankshaft end play? Or excessive bearing clearances?

 

[Rams01]

This ticking time bomb really and uncertainty is really starting to piss me off and because I definitely hear the sewing machine tapping from under the car more so on the drivers side it seems like and I have 3200 miles and am about to get the oil changed for the first time (Not my DD so I seldom drive it when the weather sucks). Part of me just wants to get rid of it and go to a more reliable platform that doesn't always have me feeling like at any given moment I'll have to get ready for a fight to get a replacement motor OR get flat out denied because I have bolt ons or some stupid shit.

Not a great first experience with Ford, I quit making the FORD jokes years ago but shit I'm quickly reminded of them. Ultimately I love everything about the new platform and look, so a GT350 would solve the problem realistically but the A10 was sorta the draw for me in the first place.

 

[Enzo]

This ticking time bomb really and uncertainty is really starting to piss me off and because I definitely hear the sewing machine tapping from under the car more so on the drivers side it seems like and I have 3200 miles and am about to get the oil changed for the first time (Not my DD so I seldom drive it when the weather sucks). Part of me just wants to get rid of it and go to a more reliable platform that doesn't always have me feeling like at any given moment I'll have to get ready for a fight to get a replacement motor OR get flat out denied because I have bolt ons or some stupid shit.

Not a great first experience with Ford, I quit making the FORD jokes years ago but shit I'm quickly reminded of them. Ultimately I love everything about the new platform and look, so a GT350 would solve the problem realistically but the A10 was sorta the draw for me in the first place.

I’m with you man! I feel exactly the same way, and this sucks even more now because my 2018 has developed the same tick at cold start. It’s already at the dealer so we’ll see what they say, but it’s made lose all confidence in Ford. As this is my second Mustang GT that had the tick. I just don’t get why Ford doesn’t spend the time and money on getting this resolved. It’s not happening with the GT350s so why not get it fixed on Coyote.

 

[Rams01]

I’m with you man! I feel exactly the same way, and this sucks even more now because my 2018 has developed the same tick at cold start. It’s already at the dealer so we’ll see what they say, but it’s made lose all confidence in Ford. As this is my second Mustang GT that had the tick. I just don’t get why Ford doesn’t spend the time and money on getting this resolved. It’s not happening with the GT350s so why not get it fixed on Coyote.

Hell I can tell you why it doesn't happen with the GT350. Its a 5.2L motor and not a 5.0 Coyote motor and thus built differently, But I guess when they were mass producing this on the cheap they figured "meh, ppl are getting a hell of a lot of performance for under 40k; they'll just have to live with some ticking that's totally normal and just part of the FORD experience...pussies.." I mean.... if it does that from day 1 brand new off the lot it sorta is "normal and operating as intended" if enough cars have that noise LOL "nope all our new 2018's+ make that sound, its totally normal; you should be worried if your car doesnt sound like a sewing machine!"

I see you did the suspension mods I had in mind, but probably going to hold off on those as well until I decide to shit or get off the pot.

 

[Turbolag87]

This ticking time bomb really and uncertainty is really starting to piss me off and because I definitely hear the sewing machine tapping from under the car more so on the drivers side it seems like and I have 3200 miles and am about to get the oil changed for the first time (Not my DD so I seldom drive it when the weather sucks). Part of me just wants to get rid of it and go to a more reliable platform that doesn't always have me feeling like at any given moment I'll have to get ready for a fight to get a replacement motor OR get flat out denied because I have bolt ons or some stupid shit.

Not a great first experience with Ford, I quit making the FORD jokes years ago but shit I'm quickly reminded of them. Ultimately I love everything about the new platform and look, so a GT350 would solve the problem realistically but the A10 was sorta the draw for me in the first place.

sell it

Sponsored