Steeda's New S550 Mustang MagneRide Dual Rate Ultimate Handling Lowering Springs

[tj@steeda]

Private message coming your way!

TJ

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[bootlegger]

Finally got these installed, but it was quite the pain in the arse at first. I would say toss the Steeda instructions in the garbage. They make great products, but the instructions are far too vague and lacking all the torque values (are these even magneride specific?). I followed a combination of the CJ Pony Parts video and the instructions from Maximum Motorsports. It took a couple hours on the first front side. Once we knew how everything went together, the rest was easy. I would say you can do this in 2-3 hours, if you know exactly have things area assembled. The tips I would give:
1. Turn the wheel so the lower strut bolts are sticking almost out. The splined bolt is damn near impossible to hammer out without room to swing at it. We were actually worried we would damage something, as hard as we had to hit it.
2. Some of the instructions have a torque value for the main strut top bolt holding the spring in, but they don't mention the bolt just spins freely. The only way to stop it is to get a wrench on the pattern on top of that bolt. However, we didn't have a wrench we were confident in holding, so we just used the impact wrench and hit it until the bolt started to turn (CJPP does the same in their video.
3. Buy aftermarket front end links. The stock ones are crap. My passenger side one was actually bent, and I have never raced the car. They seem to be some weak cast aluminum. I bought some Moogs off the person who sold me the springs, and I am glad he suggested it. It is 5 min to replace while you are in there, and absolutely necessary.
4. Beware of Ford factory screw-ups. I had a creaking noise when I turned the steering wheel, which I only discovered driving it home after the install. I was so pissed and worried I may have screwed something up. Upon removing the wheel and investigating, I discovered that Ford forgot one of the main plastic tabs holding in the wheel well plastic. The liner was hanging down and the tire was rubbing, which was now more noticeable with negative camber and 0.75" drop.

Overall, I love the feel now. Things seem much more connected and stable in turns. I was surprised to find that there is not much extra bounce or jarring. Now I just need to figure out what camber and toe in settings I want for an aggressively driven street car. Hopefully my local shop doesn't have issues using the camber/caster plates properly. Here are some final shots (yeah, camber up front is way too aggressive right now).

 

[Jigar@Steeda]

I'm looking for some great forum pricing and a discount code for these parts:

555-8150 - Non-Adjustable Pro-Action shocks/struts

555-4445 - bump stop kit

555-8160 - billet rear shock mounts

I'm pretty sure TJ sent you a PM, you can also give me a call at 954-247-2444 as I am in sales and can work you up a package deal for the above listed parts!!

 

[Cardude99]

Finally got these installed, but it was quite the pain in the arse at first. I would say toss the Steeda instructions in the garbage. They make great products, but the instructions are far too vague and lacking all the torque values (are these even magneride specific?). I followed a combination of the CJ Pony Parts video and the instructions from Maximum Motorsports. It took a couple hours on the first front side. Once we knew how everything went together, the rest was easy. I would say you can do this in 2-3 hours, if you know exactly have things area assembled. The tips I would give:
1. Turn the wheel so the lower strut bolts are sticking almost out. The splined bolt is damn near impossible to hammer out without room to swing at it. We were actually worried we would damage something, as hard as we had to hit it.
2. Some of the instructions have a torque value for the main strut top bolt holding the spring in, but they don't mention the bolt just spins freely. The only way to stop it is to get a wrench on the pattern on top of that bolt. However, we didn't have a wrench we were confident in holding, so we just used the impact wrench and hit it until the bolt started to turn (CJPP does the same in their video.
3. Buy aftermarket front end links. The stock ones are crap. My passenger side one was actually bent, and I have never raced the car. They seem to be some weak cast aluminum. I bought some Moogs off the person who sold me the springs, and I am glad he suggested it. It is 5 min to replace while you are in there, and absolutely necessary.
4. Beware of Ford factory screw-ups. I had a creaking noise when I turned the steering wheel, which I only discovered driving it home after the install. I was so pissed and worried I may have screwed something up. Upon removing the wheel and investigating, I discovered that Ford forgot one of the main plastic tabs holding in the wheel well plastic. The liner was hanging down and the tire was rubbing, which was now more noticeable with negative camber and 0.75" drop.

Overall, I love the feel now. Things seem much more connected and stable in turns. I was surprised to find that there is not much extra bounce or jarring. Now I just need to figure out what camber and toe in settings I want for an aggressively driven street car. Hopefully my local shop doesn't have issues using the camber/caster plates properly. Here are some final shots (yeah, camber up front is way too aggressive right now).

Car looks great man. How is the ride quality with these springs? Do you think the drop will end up needing new shock mounts?

 

[bootlegger]

Car looks great man. How is the ride quality with these springs? Do you think the drop will end up needing new shock mounts?

I like the ride quality. I can barely feel a difference just driving down the road. There is a slight difference on big bumps. I am not sure there is an option to change shock mounts on the magneride system, as the shock and mount seems to be a single piece. It's only a 0.75" drop, so nothing major. I am not sure if I will mess with the stabilizer bars yet. I need to get this on some twisty roads or a track and see how I like the current setup. I still plan to install the Steeda stop the hop components, and I am only missing the subframe support braces.

 

[ronnieb1958]

I'm pretty sure TJ sent you a PM, you can also give me a call at 954-247-2444 as I am in sales and can work you up a package deal for the above listed parts!!

I must give major propers to my man Jigar@Steeda! He did as he promised. Hooked me up with a deal that was friendly to my wallet. My tax refund will be put to good use!

 

[unload]

@Steeda

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-9602-M

They are indeed streetable, may be a bit stiffer but nothing the magnaride system won't make up for. The sensors don't need to be re-calibrated since the drop is so minor.

The ford performance package that includes Ford MR springs includes a re-calibration.

How would Steeda MR springs and sway bars compare to the
FORD PERFORMANCE MUSTANG MAGNERIDE HANDLING PACK

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-9602-M

???


Thanks!

 

[tj@steeda]

Let me circle back with our internal team & I will have Jigar provide the details.

TJ

 

[bootlegger]

@Steeda

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-9602-M



The ford performance package that includes Ford MR springs includes a re-calibration.

How would Steeda MR springs and sway bars compare to the
FORD PERFORMANCE MUSTANG MAGNERIDE HANDLING PACK

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-9602-M

???


Thanks!

No mention of any drop. So I wonder if these are completely neutral drop. I have to say the car looks much better with the 0.75" drop from the Steeda. If the FP kit is essentially an upgrade to something similar to PP2, I wouldn't buy it. I would love to have that MR flash though.

 

[MrWolf]

No mention of any drop. So I wonder if these are completely neutral drop. I have to say the car looks much better with the 0.75" drop from the Steeda. If the FP kit is essentially an upgrade to something similar to PP2, I wouldn't buy it. I would love to have that MR flash though.

The springs that come with the FP handling pack have a 20mm drop all round (have them on my car).

 

[bootlegger]

The springs that come with the FP handling pack have a 20mm drop all round (have them on my car).

Same as Steeda, which is good.

 

[wildcatgoal]

Love mine!

 

[Jigar@Steeda]

CONFIRMED: our springs do not require re-calibration.

 

[Voo Doo]

Yes, give them some time to settle. Post a picture when you get a chance, this what our Dual Rate Springs look like on the Steeda Mustang:

So, installed mine at the shop Apr 25th... rears Pass was 1/2 higher that drivers rear !! Fronts are not 14&3/4. My rears now after settling somewhat.. Drivers rear is 15&1/4... Pass rear is 15&1/4... I have 1&1/2 inch wheelwell space both sides!! Nothing like your Steeda car!! 305/30/20 Nitto’s 555 G2’s!! So... how long does it take to,settle down.... like your car???

 

[tj@steeda]

So, installed mine at the shop Apr 25th... rears Pass was 1/2 higher that drivers rear !! Fronts are not 14&3/4. My rears now after settling somewhat.. Drivers rear is 15&1/4... Pass rear is 15&1/4... I have 1&1/2 inch wheelwell space both sides!! Nothing like your Steeda car!! 305/30/20 Nitto’s 555 G2’s!! So... how long does it take to,settle down.... like your car???

It can take several weeks - where are you taking your measurements from? Here is a video showing the recommended measuring techniques.



Send me your contract info and I’ll have our tech team call you to see if there is anything we can talk through in terms of the install.

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