Adding Active Exhaust on 2018 GT

[zackmd1]

anyone get up under there yet and look for any plugs on their non-active 18?

Wiring is not there unfortunately.... Here is a wiring diagram of the actuators. Technically it looks possible and worst case, you would have to run wiring directly to the PCM and battery junction box. Best case is that the wiring mostly exists and is just missing the actual leads and connectors. Have to do more investigation to find out.

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[FISHTAIL]

Following.

 

[c360tx]

Zach thanks for the wiring diagram! That was exactly the kind of thing i was looking for! I am hoping most of the wiring is somehow embedded in a main wiring harness that runs the length of the vehicle (as long as you have sync 3 and drive modes already installed on your car).

 

[FISHTAIL]

Zach thanks for the wiring diagram! That was exactly the kind of thing i was looking for! I am hoping most of the wiring is somehow embedded in a main wiring harness that runs the length of the vehicle (as long as you have sync 3 and drive modes already installed on your car).

There was nothing underneath that I noticed when swapping my exhaust. There is another guy local that has an active setup though, and he already took his stock stuff off. I'm going to go collect it. If this ends up being a reasonably easy mod, I'll end up doing it.

 

[Sumocrayon]

Following

 

[ponyv6]

There was nothing underneath that I noticed when swapping my exhaust. There is another guy local that has an active setup though, and he already took his stock stuff off. I'm going to go collect it. If this ends up being a reasonably easy mod, I'll end up doing it.

any update? thanks!

 

[Sc1850]

Just bought my 18 without, have had an Active exhaust system tucked away for 7 months, going to be putting it on new car. At minimum, I'll switch valve to "Track" and run loud all the time. I would like to use the mode switching if possible, but don't have to. Will post any updates as they happen.

 

[Andy13186]

just get electric cutouts..

 

[Bybcous]

Just bought my 18 without, have had an Active exhaust system tucked away for 7 months, going to be putting it on new car. At minimum, I'll switch valve to "Track" and run loud all the time. I would like to use the mode switching if possible, but don't have to. Will post any updates as they happen.

There is a thread somewhere on the forum, it has been done and you can use factory modes to switch exhaust notes. It's a huge thread and some cars have the factory connection already installed so all you need are the mufflers.

 

[ehazel]

There is a thread somewhere on the forum, it has been done and you can use factory modes to switch exhaust notes. It's a huge thread and some cars have the factory connection already installed so all you need are the mufflers.

Thread:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-active-exhaust-install-guide.101913/

If you have the plug based on this post its super easy (plug and play + forscan edit) to install. If not its a little more difficult.
Plug location:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...aust-install-guide.101913/page-3#post-2234512


If you dont have the plug make sure to read all the way through that thread as there are wiring diagrams, plug pinouts, wire gauges, etc.

Here are some key posts:

Signal:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-active-exhaust-install-guide.101913/page-12#post-2388973

Power:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ust-install-guide.101913/page-15#post-2422428

I added active to my car following that thread. You have to read all the way through as its original thread got off topic and switched to installing to 2018 cars. I didn't have the plug so I had to make my own harness to tap into the wiring in the Driver(Signal) and passenger(Power) footwells.

 

[Bybcous]

Thread:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-active-exhaust-install-guide.101913/

If you have the plug based on this post its super easy (plug and play + forscan edit) to install. If not its a little more difficult.
Plug location:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...aust-install-guide.101913/page-3#post-2234512


If you dont have the plug make sure to read all the way through that thread as there are wiring diagrams, plug pinouts, wire gauges, etc.

Here are some key posts:

Signal:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-active-exhaust-install-guide.101913/page-12#post-2388973

Power:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ust-install-guide.101913/page-15#post-2422428

I added active to my car following that thread. You have to read all the way through as its original thread got off topic and switched to installing to 2018 cars. I didn't have the plug so I had to make my own harness to tap into the wiring in the Driver(Signal) and passenger(Power) footwells.

Did you make a guide for what you did ? the schematic pictures have me lost lol

 

[HopfibreSn]

I'm in the same boat, do not have the plug. It would be much appreciated if someone made a write up for the non plug cars.

 

[ehazel]

Did you make a guide for what you did ? the schematic pictures have me lost lol

Dont let the schematic scare you away, the majority of that is existing or apart of three harnesses you will buy in addition to the mufflers. I did an edit to the diagram. Here is a brief overview, Ill try to put together all the specific details when I have some spare time.

The wiring from the PCM and Power all terminate inside the cabin. There are two multi pin connectors where the wires end and need to be extended back to the trunk.

The Y Harness is what would have connected to the missing plug underneath the car. There are two extension harnesses that plug into the Y and each goes to one muffler. You CAN wire this up without the Y connection but I felt It was easier than wiring everything directly into the mufflers (Or Muffler extensions).

The Y Harness has Six wires going into it.
Five need to be pulled from the front footwells consisting of:
- Four signal wires from the drivers footwell.
- One power wire from the passenger footwell.

The final wire is ground and there is a perfect spot in the trunk to grab from.

 

[ehazel]

This is by no means a step by step how to. Mainly consolidated information from the other thread and photos of my sketchy half assed(for now) installation. Please read through the other thread to get a full understanding and verify before proceeding. Thanks to Fishtail, Rock50, and others for putting in the hard work of tracking down information and tracing wiring from the pcm and fuse box to the passenger cabin.

Major Parts:
JR3Z-5230-FA - Muffler - DOUBLE CHECK THESE
JR3Z-5230-FB - Muffler - DOUBLE CHECK THESE - It Looks like Ford might have changed part numbers for the mufflers
JR3Z-14A411-H - Actuator/Extension Harness - Need Two
JR3Z-14A411-J - Y Harness

Wiring:
Signal: I found a 4 conductor 22awg shielded cable at my local Fry's electronics, 50ft for about $12. Similar to the link below.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-4-Condu...d-25-Foot-Length-4C-22AWG-S2204-/263651685640

Power+Ground: I used off the shelf Autozone 18awg in Red and Black.
Taps:
Signal wires being tapped are 20awg (I used 20-22awg tap)
I dont recall the size of the power wire but I used a 14-16 awg tap
Spades: I used the 22-18awg spades and they didn't want to crimp to the 22awg signal wires due to small size. (It could have been my crimp tool, but be prepared to solder just in case)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/120-pc-3M-...DE/381858397493?hash=item58e888bd35:rk:4:pf:0

Forscan:
IPC module if you have a standard cluster. (The digital cluster might be different check the forscan spreadsheets in the DIY section)
Inactive code: 720-10-01 0xxx xxxx xxxx
Active code: 720-10-01 2xxx xxxx xxxx


Here is the super super simplified diagram I made to keep myself organized when connecting things together. The original diagram and my medium simplified version are available earlier in this thread.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GR1EKLwP0vdrvnphMZ16YencGahA1QZYI7Yxr2gNZvY/edit?usp=sharing

I have been unable to source the correct pins to add to the missing side of the connector so I T tapped the wires just before the connector for both power and signal. I Had a similar issue sourcing the main connection on the Y harness so I ended up cutting it off and soldering on 3m waterproof spade connectors on each wire. My end goal is that I can find the correct pins/connectors in the future and have a near factory install.

To route the cabling I used the Install guide for Roush's active exhaust. You will need to tear apart most of the drivers side interior and that guide made it 10x easier than guess work. I routed my power under the dash over to the drivers side so I didn't have to tear the passenger side apart.(You can see both the red wire and signal going into a black bundle in the photo below)
https://www.roushperformance.com/media/parts/manuals/422100-instructions.pdf


The Y Harness has Six wires going into it.
Five need to be pulled from the front footwells consisting of:
- Four signal wires from the drivers footwell.(GY, WH-BU, BN-GN, BU-GN) Pins 1-4. I attached the connector pinout diagram.

- One power wire from the passenger footwell.(VT-BN) Pin 2

The final wire is ground and there is a perfect spot in the trunk to grab from. (Bolt with black wire)

Here is the Y Harness(Under the rear were the factory plug would be.) Its main connector I replaced with waterproof spades then shrink-wrapped.

 

[acemastr]

This is by no means a step by step how to. Mainly consolidated information from the other thread and photos of my sketchy half assed(for now) installation. Please read through the other thread to get a full understanding and verify before proceeding. Thanks to Fishtail, Rock50, and others for putting in the hard work of tracking down information and tracing wiring from the pcm and fuse box to the passenger cabin.

Major Parts:
JR3Z-5230-FA - Muffler - DOUBLE CHECK THESE
JR3Z-5230-FB - Muffler - DOUBLE CHECK THESE - It Looks like Ford might have changed part numbers for the mufflers
JR3Z-14A411-H - Actuator/Extension Harness - Need Two
JR3Z-14A411-J - Y Harness

Wiring:
Signal: I found a 4 conductor 22awg shielded cable at my local Fry's electronics, 50ft for about $12. Similar to the link below.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-4-Condu...d-25-Foot-Length-4C-22AWG-S2204-/263651685640

Power+Ground: I used off the shelf Autozone 18awg in Red and Black.
Taps:
Signal wires being tapped are 20awg (I used 20-22awg tap)
I dont recall the size of the power wire but I used a 14-16 awg tap
Spades: I used the 22-18awg spades and they didn't want to crimp to the 22awg signal wires due to small size. (It could have been my crimp tool, but be prepared to solder just in case)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/120-pc-3M-...DE/381858397493?hash=item58e888bd35:rk:4:pf:0

Forscan:
IPC module if you have a standard cluster. (The digital cluster might be different check the forscan spreadsheets in the DIY section)
Inactive code: 720-10-01 0xxx xxxx xxxx
Active code: 720-10-01 2xxx xxxx xxxx


Here is the super super simplified diagram I made to keep myself organized when connecting things together. The original diagram and my medium simplified version are available earlier in this thread.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GR1EKLwP0vdrvnphMZ16YencGahA1QZYI7Yxr2gNZvY/edit?usp=sharing

I have been unable to source the correct pins to add to the missing side of the connector so I T tapped the wires just before the connector for both power and signal. I Had a similar issue sourcing the main connection on the Y harness so I ended up cutting it off and soldering on 3m waterproof spade connectors on each wire. My end goal is that I can find the correct pins/connectors in the future and have a near factory install.

To route the cabling I used the Install guide for Roush's active exhaust. You will need to tear apart most of the drivers side interior and that guide made it 10x easier than guess work. I routed my power under the dash over to the drivers side so I didn't have to tear the passenger side apart.(You can see both the red wire and signal going into a black bundle in the photo below)
https://www.roushperformance.com/media/parts/manuals/422100-instructions.pdf


The Y Harness has Six wires going into it.
Five need to be pulled from the front footwells consisting of:
- Four signal wires from the drivers footwell.(GY, WH-BU, BN-GN, BU-GN) Pins 1-4. I attached the connector pinout diagram.

- One power wire from the passenger footwell.(VT-BN) Pin 2

The final wire is ground and there is a perfect spot in the trunk to grab from. (Bolt with black wire)

Here is the Y Harness(Under the rear were the factory plug would be.) Its main connector I replaced with waterproof spades then shrink-wrapped.

Can you confirm this works with the mode changing on the dash?
I'm missing the relay and power to the exhaust but I have the cable at the back.

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