OK, Audioheads - Time to exercise your brain (12 speaker upgrade Mids/Tweet)

[EcoBOSS]

OK, the Pioneer TS-T110 7/8-Inch Hard-Dome Tweeters have a 5uF filter capacitor that makes the lower cutoff 7,000HZ, the case is too big for the factory hole even without the mounting cups and the volume level was too low to notice (mainly because of the cutoff freq. I'm assuming)

Specs looked promising though...

Top-mount depth: 15/16"
7/8" fluid-cooled PPTA dome tweeters (pair)
Flush- and surface-mount hardware included
Non-removable metal mesh grilles
7,000 Hz high-pass in-line crossovers (6dB/octave) included
Power handling: 2-40 watts RMS (120 watts peak power)
Frequency response: 2,500-30,000 Hz
Sensitivity: 90 dB


Next up:
JBL GTO19T
Rockford Fosgate Prime R1T-S

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[solodogg]

bumping this back up from the dead...wondering if you ever got a chance to test any other tweeters.

 

[BlownGP]

So, did you try those tweeters and what are some 6 1/2" speakers that don't require new holes to be drilled in the door?

Thanks

 

[UserName]

So, did you try those tweeters and what are some 6 1/2" speakers that don't require new holes to be drilled in the door?

Thanks

You can cut a new spacer ring that will use the stock holes and then the speaker screws into that.

 

[EcoBOSS]

I finally settled on the tweeters that came in the component set - Polk MM6501 1" tweeter required some grinding to fit because I wanted to show off the Polk housing.
If I pulled them apart, I probably could have hid them in the factory holes.

Rears:
2 Ohm factory, added 4 Ohm for a couple reasons; the Polk mm651's are more efficient and I only want the rear speakers for "fill".
There IS a volume reduction in the rear, but the speaker is 6" way from the rear passengers head and it is for THEM, not me (Driver).
Sitting in the front I can't notice them, sitting in the back the sound stage is mostly from the front and rears provide "clarity".
Everyone has their own tastes/needs, I have rear passengers occasionally, so...

Rear speaker install:
There are 3 - 7mm screws holding the speakers in.
The 2 in the front are easy, the one in the back (towards the outside of the car back, not directly in the rear) is a PITA.
It is doable with 1/4" pivot ratchet and standard depth socket. Installing it takes time AND patience.
If you see ANY rear speaker install that takes <2 hours, it is a lie or they only used the front screws.

Set up a workstation - I'm using the gutted factory speakers as a base since I want to keep the factory connections.

Polk provides a protective cover that I used to keep from damaging the speaker during the install...

Here's a picture from outside showing the rear bolt.
Gah.

Checking to see if the height change is going to be an issue...

 

[EcoBOSS]

Looks like the height is going to be an issue.
I'll know this weekend, but the speaker surround is higher than the base of the rear windshield.

This would not be an issue with stamped steel basket speakers [i.e.: Kicker] as they are much thinner than composite framed speakers.

 

[terry_b]

I'm looking to get my girlfriend an upgrade for her ecoboost and this caught my eye. She had a Cobalt with a killer aftermarket sound system before this, and despite having the Shaker Pro system, it seems pretty lacking for her. It breaks my heart, too because my Camaro has an amazing JL Audio system instead of the "premium" Boston Acoustics stuff it came with.

I'd love to see some more updates from you, I'm waiting for either a valentine's day or birthday (July) to put something nice in like a full DSP. Right now it's looking like I'm going to get the infinity reference 3.5 for the center (would another set of these be an upgrade for the doors as well?) and a nicer 8" sub for drop in upgrades

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