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SCCA F-Street Setup. What's Everyone Done so Far?

DickR

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Do any of you guys who have had the Advance Trac problem use OBD-II bluetooth readers plugged directly into the car's OBD-II port? If yes, which readers, especially "cheap" vs "not cheap"?

I know nothing about CAN or how OBD-II "polling or whatever it actually is" works but it appears that data traffic on the vehicle dynamics CAN is significant and it occurred to me that OBD-II adapter "polling" for rpm, throttle position, and maybe other parameters might interfere ESC related data and cause intermittent ESC issues.

Note that I use a Race Technology DL-1 and its OBD-II adapter is wired to the DL-1 which is mounted in the trunk. The adapter therefore is connected to via an extension cable to the car's OBD-II port. It does collect lots of data besides rpm and throttle position.
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boardkat

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Pick your poison, Bluetooth or WiFi on the all important MS-CAN bus for a full view of every control unit (I use Bluetooth with my android tablet/solostorm for data logging and WiFi with iPhone/laptop/FORScan for diagnostics):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NZTZLQ/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JFRFJG6/

OBD-II is too slow - if you aren’t grabbing CAN data (especially when logging multiple channels), you’re not getting a full view.
 

jpaulson

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WTB: set of FS legal 18 Inch wheels 18x9 and 18x9.5. Wish I still had the forgestars that I ordered for the old car...:(
 

Dana Pants

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WTB: set of FS legal 18 Inch wheels 18x9 and 18x9.5. Wish I still had the forgestars that I ordered for the old car...:(
I really think the only way is to make your own from Enkei PF01 at this point. I contacted so many wheel makers and made zero traction including Forgestar.

The next Fastrack should have the response to my letter asking for an extra 0.5mm of offset allowance. If you (we) don’t like the response, I encourage you to write them in support.
 

kz

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I really think the only way is to make your own from Enkei PF01 at this point. I contacted so many wheel makers and made zero traction including Forgestar.

The next Fastrack should have the response to my letter asking for an extra 0.5mm of offset allowance. If you (we) don’t like the response, I encourage you to write them in support.
I think February one does and says something like "current tolerance is fine" (not sure if yours or someone else's but swear I've seen a response to the offset letter).
 

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Dana Pants

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I think February one does and says something like "current tolerance is fine" (not sure if yours or someone else's but swear I've seen a response to the offset letter).
That wasn’t my letter. Mine is 25464.
 

arthuruscg

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Where do you go to look up the FSM? I am running a 2017 Fusion Sport (2.7L EB) in GS and trying to get more camber. I have found the splineless service bolts for the knuckle to strut mount but I'm hoping Ford allows the same 1mm strut grinding.
 

kz

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Dana Pants

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I think February one does and says something like "current tolerance is fine" (not sure if yours or someone else's but swear I've seen a response to the offset letter).
You were right. They rejected my request in the February Fastrack. Ohh well. I look forward to my "competitive advantage" due to my willingness to mess up a set of wheels.
 

BoostedMike177

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So I scored my first Pax win in the GT, this was my fourth event with it. I got on them RE71r and I am a believer! The car needs beefing up though, who is running after market wheel studs? Brake pads and fluids? Thinking Hawk pads, it's my daily so something friendly in mind. How often do you retorque suspension parts?
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kz

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Aftermarket wheel studs will take you out of FS. I am not sure better than OEM brake pads give you any benefit and certainly Hawk isn't any better than OEM PP pads (in my opinion).
 

Norm Peterson

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On brake pads . . . I know that Hawk has the brake products contingency thing going with SCCA. But the autocross and lower-level track pads in Carbotech or G-loc combine HP+ levels of bite with HPS levels of rotor wear even in mixed (some track, mostly street miles) driving. HP+ is too abrasive of a pad to use in street driving when there are much better dual-use options, HPS doesn't have the bite. I have no direct basis for comment on the newer HPS 5.0 pads.


kz - there had to be a reason pads such as the HP+, AX-6, and R6 were developed (and specifically mention autocross use).


Norm
 

BmacIL

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On brake pads . . . I know that Hawk has the brake products contingency thing going with SCCA. But the autocross and lower-level track pads in Carbotech or G-loc combine HP+ levels of bite with HPS levels of rotor wear even in mixed (some track, mostly street miles) driving. HP+ is too abrasive of a pad to use in street driving when there are much better dual-use options, HPS doesn't have the bite. I have no direct basis for comment on the newer HPS 5.0 pads.


kz - there had to be a reason pads such as the HP+, AX-6, and R6 were developed (and specifically mention autocross use).


Norm
Yes, though I'd argue there are quite minimal gains to be had over the stock 6 piston brembo pads, if any, on 200TW tires. If they have better modulation and release characteristics, then maybe worth it, but the stock pads are not lacking in bite for autocross. The base GT pads have definite room for improvement, though, even for autocross.
 

DickR

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Aftermarket wheel studs will take you out of FS. I am not sure better than OEM brake pads give you any benefit and certainly Hawk isn't any better than OEM PP pads (in my opinion).
I don't think you are correct on that per 13.4 B of the rules.

Wheel studs, lug nuts, valve stems (including pressure-relief types), and/or bolt length may be changed. Wheel bolts may be replaced with studs and nuts but the number of fasteners may not be changed. Tire pressure monitoring sensors may be removed.​

This rule, other than the TPMS sensor addition, was in place in 1975 when I started.
 

kz

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I don't think you are correct on that per 13.4 B of the rules.
Thanks, I obviously had no clue, never came across this rule as it is not typical to change the studs although it can make sense if someone is using the spacers.

I had one the threads on the stud go bad and replaced the entire hub with the OEM part - which was $52 and it included bearing and the studs (in case someone wants to go modify the hub - they're cheap).
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