Engine Motor Mounts Recommendations?

[Fuse]

Keep us updated. I kind of stopped pursuing this due to NVH.

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[Jared_J]

Just called Steeda. The tech found out the black ones, which they call the racing ones, are 90A stiffness. The red ones are only softer than that but they don't know. For reference the GMS and BMR ones are 95A, and that's why they are so harsh...
I ask about group buy option, and they gave me a coupon code. PM me if you are interested.

 

[zackmd1]

Yea 95A is essentially hard plastic...

 

[Fuse]

I would love to group buy, however I want to know that they do fit properly and the amount of NVH it'll have.

 

[Jared_J]

UPDATE: There indeed is a "break in" period, and the smoothness has improved 10-fold after three days of work-home commuting, but I believe not from the mount. I think it's likely due to the fact that I disconnected the battery to remove the strut tower brace, and the engine needs to relearn to seek back it's balance. Now the vibration is much more livable and much less annoying, though still a ton more than the stock ones for anything lower than 2000RPM. Idling in Neutral has about 50% more vibration than idling in Drive with stock mounts, and driving at 1100rpm still feels like a guy can't drive manual. However, for RPM beyond 3000, it feels magnificent! Smooth as stock, yet you feel more connected to your car. Gear shifts are much cleaner and torque response is much more direct. Also the engine seems to sound more crisp due to the high frequency vibration passing through cabin, but not sure if it's a plus or a minus... I like the driving feel though.
Still, it would be better to have softer polys....

 

[wildcatgoal]

I use Steeda's with all black bushing pucks. Only time I get "obvious" NVH is when the AC compressor kicks on at idle. Otherwise, it's just par for the course along with everything else. Easy install, too.

 

[Jared_J]

20190105_122057

• Jared_J
• Jan 6, 2019

20190105_122124_HDR

• Jared_J
• Jan 6, 2019

Steeda motor mounts, fits perfect and 1000 times better than the GMS ones. It lowered the engine more than 1/2 inch with only 2 spacers down out of the 3 availables. Almost too much lowering might as well use only 1 spacer. Silky smooth above 2000rpm and minor vibration when lugging below 1200rpm. Hope it gets even better after breaking in.

 

[zackmd1]

Wow that is a very large drop. Looks closer to .75" to me. Might be very useful for my supercharger project. How much vibration would you say there is at idle? (IE. can you notice the headlight beam cutoff bouncing?). That is really my concern. I am also curious as to what this does to driveline angle and if it has any adverse effects longterm. Not sure how critical the angle is with an IRS rear where the diff does not move.

 

[Jared_J]

Wow that is a very large drop. Looks closer to .75" to me. Might be very useful for my supercharger project. How much vibration would you say there is at idle? (IE. can you notice the headlight beam cutoff bouncing?). That is really my concern. I am also curious as to what this does to driveline angle and if it has any adverse effects longterm. Not sure how critical the angle is with an IRS rear where the diff does not move.

Just measured, the gap from manifold upper edge to the brace lower edge is at 1.4-1.5mm (f**k imperial units). Considering that when without lowering the engine the gap is close to zero but still not touching if without washers applied, the height lowered is exactly at 1/2 inch (1.27mm).
Even with GMS mounts I don't see it so bad as beam cutoff bouncing, though the beam indeed chatters (my side mirrors were even chattering when idling with GMS bullshit). With steeda mounts I still notice some beam shaking when throttle tipping in at start-n-stop speed, but very minor and only occurs during such transition state. Also, if you find the ultra-low RPM shaking annoying when lugging the engine, just put the gear to S mode temporarily and the problem is solved. In my opinion it's more of a shift map thing and can be re-tuned to avoid lugging at 1100rpm. Ford was being fuel economy cheap to let a sports car engine lug at 1100rpm. I'm running stock shift map with 91 octane tune because I don't like the harshness of MPT shift tune.

 

[Jared_J]

Driveline angle as measured from the top of the engine is about 3.3 degrees stock. With the maximum drop on BMR mounts without any modifications to the transmission mount the angle dropped to 2.3 degrees.

I think if you guys only drop one spacer with the steeda mounts, you would still get enough clearance, and only change the driveline angle by 0.5 degree (small angle approximation).

I was using washers with stock mounts and the clearance was only 5mm. Still never had any issue with them. So 1 spacer or 1/4 inch drop should be sufficient if you want to be conservative on driveline angle.

 

[USMCtoARMY]

That's all really interesting. If I keep my car I may be just going and filling my stock motor mounts with poly resin now. Are you also using differential inserts? I wonder how much that would raise the NVH in conjunction with motor mounts.

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