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Post bbq tick users. WHICH OIL?

Zinc03svt

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I have had great luck with Ketjenlube 135 aka (Hyperlube Zinc Replacement). Oil changed @ 3100 miles to PUP 5w20 and now 4400 miles no tick on cold start ups anymore.
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accel

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I have had great luck with Ketjenlube 135 aka (Hyperlube Zinc Replacement). Oil changed @ 3100 miles to PUP 5w20 and now 4400 miles no tick on cold start ups anymore.
is it the same product (Ketjenlube 135 and Huperlube zddp), or, sort of equivalent?

I tried the Huperlube and it worked for a day or two, but then the tick came back.
 

Zinc03svt

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is it the same product (Ketjenlube 135 and Huperlube zddp), or, sort of equivalent?

I tried the Huperlube and it worked for a day or two, but then the tick came back.
They make two different oil additives. The Zinc Replacement Additive is the one I have used. Cat safe.
 

TheLion

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Interesting that insoluble particle friction modifiers like ceratec and xl17 (carbon black) instantaneously fix the tick.

But mos2 does not.
I suspect that is because MoS2 is a chemical friction modifier that creates a tenacious fluid film rather than a solid lubricant friction modifier that creates a Triobfilm (aka also known as a Diamond Like Coating). Two different mechanisms. DLC coatings can also provide enhanced adhesion for chemical friction modifiers and base oils to cling to. For example TriboTEX has a porous surface and provides enhanced adhesion of the base oils.

So the base oils form a more effective film in dynamic lubrication regimes, making them more effective. Right now with switching over to RedLine my only concern would be if there are any antagonisitc effects of Molybdenum (Mo) which decomposes into a MoS2 film and the Synthetic MSH DL Coating that TriboTEX forms. I know for certain from direct contact with them that ZDDP actually has a mutually beneficial function with TriboTEX.

Because DLC coatings are slow to form, you need an another anti-wear additive to work in between while the DLC coating is forming. ZDDP is still necessary to protect the engine from wear while the synthetic MSH decomposes into it's tribo film. Once the film has formed, ZDDP will still adhere to some degree, filling in the gaps of the porous TriboTEX film and enhancing anti-wear. They are NOT antagonistic in nature.

TriboTEX isn't really an oil additive, it's a surface reconditioned and once the film has formed it' remains for approximately 40,000 miles (give or take depending on how much was applied an the vehicles usage). It's also considered chemically inert, so it has very low reactivity and high resistance to oxidation, which makes it perfect for stop and go uses and season cars that get stored for months at a time. The DLC film prevents bearings from corroding and helps the base oil to stay on the surface of the bearings as well as it being a protective layer itself.

If the base oil stays on the bearing surface, so does some of the detergents which neutralize corrosive acids etc. It's a win win situation in that regard. DLC coatings all form In Situ (Latin or "on site"). But getting back to you "why this fixed the tick and this does not" is the surface adhesion of the base oil. It simply helps your motor oil form a thicker film and the coating itself also takes up some physical space as well, tightening clearances where there is excessive wear due to the higher heat and friction in those areas.

CeraTec and Archoil use hBN (Hexagonal Boron Nitride) instead of Synthetic Magnesium Silicate Hydroxide, but have somewhat similar properties to MSH and function in a similar manner and even by similar mechanisms (as does ZDDP, however ZDDP has almost no ability to reduce friction, it is mainly there as an anti-wear additive).
 

TheLion

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was trying to PM you but wouldnt let me. i was hoping you could pm me i was curious about your experience so far with tribotex, i was one of the ones who tried ceratec but just looking for some more info/opinions
I have about 3,000 miles on the TriboTEX in both my wife's Prius C and my GT. The GT sees some pretty hard use, not quite as hard as dedicated track, but a decent amount of sustained high RPM WOT or near WOT use. The Prius of course is a workhorse car, it gets abused day in and day out. Short trips, long trips, lots of cold starts.

TriboTEX won't fix oil issues like shear down (which I believe Mobil 1 still shears down faster than many other formulas based on some recent research, so I'm looking to move to something else, looking at going full synthetic with RedLine). But it can help reduce oil consumption. So far I'm down about an 1/8 of a quart (maybe a little more) in the GT over 4,000 miles and that's it. Consumption at this mileage would normally be anywhere from a little over a 1/4 quart to 1/2 quart.

Oil temps on the idiot gauge stay about 1/5 cooler than they were prior to TriboTEX. Fuel economy is way up. Prior to TriboTEX I would get around 22-25 highway under fairly ideal conditions (cruise control on, some hills, some flat ground, low wind etc.). I now average about 26 to 29 mpg but up to 30 (just got 30 today at 75 mph cruising speed). I have changed nothing else, not even the oil (oil had 1k miles on it when I added TriboTEX, not at 24k).

Power and response has gone up markedly. I always felt like the 5.0 was straining against itself, even with the Power Pack 2, there were times where I felt like it took longer to spool up than an LT1 or 392 would have or responded mores sluggishly. This was really noticeable in the lower gears where response is amplified, 1st and 2nd. Now it's almost instantaneous and revvs much more freely. I wouldn't be surprised if I took off 0.2 to 0.3 of my 0-60. I'd estimate average power to have gone up around 15-25 hp based on fuel economy gains (TriboTEX had their best power gains with a 350 Chevy Small Block V8 and saw 10% power output increase, yes it was an older engine, so the restorative properties helped, but even if it was new, there would be gains due to friction loss reduction).

The 5.0 is a VERY lossy engine. Combine 32 valves, 4 cam phasors, 4 timing chains, 32 cam lobes and 8 pistons all operating at higher average RPM's than the big bore competitors from GM and Dodge and you have signfiicantly higher friction losses that off-set some of the advantages of higher revving DOHC architectures. So the 5.0 and other higher revving V8's have more to gain than the 6.2L LT1 or the 392 Hemi's because they are inherently lossy engines (speaking about friction, but they do flow better than the 2 valve counterparts).

So TriboTEX gives you the benefits of DOHC while reduces it's negatives to the point where the architecture really comes to life. I would expect noticeably smaller, but still measurable gains in the competitors. One guy had a challenger 392 and used TriboTEX and said he could not tell any difference in power or response but did see a very small increase in fuel economy. That confirms my theory bout the 5.0 being lossy.

The 3rd Gen 5.0, Power Pack 3 equipped 2nd Gen 5.0 and especially the Voodoo 5.2 would really benefit from TriboTEX. I'll bet the 5.2 would pick up 30 hp at the crank due to all those losses in the high RPM region. As far as noise, there was some initial quieting of top end clank, but the clankiness came back to what it was after a while as the coating formed and it made the normal noises more distinct. Not louder volume wise, but more "sowing machine" like. Remember too that I suspect my Mobil 1 is thinning out as I noticed the Prius getting more clanky on Mobil 1 before the TriboTEX. So that's why I'm looking to switch to an oil that has extremely good shear resistance, especially for the hot running 5.0 that sees a lot of hard use.

TriboTEX should be a perfect complement to a good quality Group V Ester base oil. Ester's are already known for good adhesion, should be stellar with TriboTEX. They are also VERY resistant to shear as there's very little use of VI's (polymer viscosity improvers that are the source of shear) to get their blended viscosity as they tend to naturally have those properties. My only reservation at the moment is how Mo (Molybdenum) would react to the TriboTEX DLC coating. Waiting to hear back from TriboTEX just to make sure there are no antagonistic effects (I have no indication nor have I found any data to suggest there would be, but it never hurts to ask!).

RedLine supposedly contains a decent amount of Moly and that's why I'm asking, I believe Driven's Ester formula does as well. Not sure about AMSOIL SS PAO based oil formula.
 

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18StangGT

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hi, im new here lol

anyway I have the 18 GT (Export spec, LHD, PP1 premium), a weekend car so miles racks up SLOW, with engine build sticker 01/18. Cold start tick started at approx. 700+ kms (450 miles), tick goes away when engine warms up. Still on factory oil.

fast forward to 996 kms (600+ miles), had my 6th month mandatory dealer oil change, dealer used Shell 5W30 Ultra AF, noticed right away the warmed up engine is quieter. Made a couple of cold starts with the new oil, and tick is basically gone. If there are ticks left it's barely noticeable anymore.

Was gonna use Ceratec but with the improvement from the oil change, will hold off for now.
 

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Be careful with Zinc additives. ZDDP concentrations are carefully formulated in each oil coctail from the supplier. Too much zinc and actually increase friction and wear rates just as too little can also have the same effect. It's parabolic in terms of optimal concentrations.
 

SupremeFocus

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Will the Penzoil platinum full synthetic with pure plus technology work as good as the ultra platinum With pure plus technology and if so what’s a good weight. I’m currently using purple power 5-30 full synthetic on my 2019 Gt pp
 

Zinc03svt

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Will the Penzoil platinum full synthetic with pure plus technology work as good as the ultra platinum With pure plus technology and if so what’s a good weight. I’m currently using purple power 5-30 full synthetic on my 2019 Gt pp
I run the Ultra Platinum 5w-30. Car burns zero oil.
 

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RCOLEMAN545

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Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30, with no additional additives has substantially reduced my BBQ tick. It is still there, but isn't nearly as noticeable as any 5W-20 I have used.
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