BBQ tick and oil change oil starvation

[mustang charlie]

Imo using the accelerator to the floor after oil changes and extended time non starts is a pretty easy way to help the motor get a little more lubrication before firing up. Starters are cheaper than short blocks. I’m incredibly stupid though. .

Hey were not stupid were just not informed , I'm an old guy at 67 years old and still learning from the young pups, but yes this little trick could save me a lot of down time , I just love that stang It all started when I was 16 and seen the movie bullet chase scene , I told my self self I'm gonna get one when I turn 65 and I did sold my Harley and bam , no rain and bugs in face ,and yes starters are a lot cheaper ,thanks bro

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[mustang charlie]

They pre-lube engines after overhaul. because many parts that get installed have little to no lubrication on them at all. That thin layer of oil they put on is no different than if you had previously ran the engine, and left a nice layer of oil all over everything before starting again.

The primary reason for the tick after the first oil change, is because the carbon build up in the oil is cushioning the cylinder walls and bearings to some extent. Personally, I think the tick is mainly piston slap. That's why the tick tends to go away as the oil ages after a couple thousand miles, only to return again after the next oil change. Ford used to have an additive called XL-17, to help cushion parts and quiet the engine. It was basically just carbon powder in some mineral oil.

I have used lubrilon in all my rigs for over thirty years , I just don't like the thought of a pre mature over haul on my stang engine ,

 

[Condor1970]

I have used lubrilon in all my rigs for over thirty years , I just don't like the thought of a pre mature over haul on my stang engine ,

I agree. Engines should be assembled with ample pre-lube to prevent damage to new parts. This is common practice, and makes sense. Once you've been operating the engine though, the entire interior is covered in oil, so pre-lubing prior to further start-ups really isn't needed. That said, it doesn't hurt to turn over the engine a few times after an oil change to make sure the filter is full before actually lighting off. Is it necessary? No, not really. But, if it gives you peace of mind, then I suppose it's worth it.

 

[mustang charlie]

I agree. Engines should be assembled with ample pre-lube to prevent damage to new parts. This is common practice, and makes sense. Once you've been operating the engine though, the entire interior is covered in oil, so pre-lubing prior to further start-ups really isn't needed. That said, it doesn't hurt to turn over the engine a few times after an oil change to make sure the filter is full before actually lighting off. Is it necessary? No, not really.

Sorry I meant prelube , as pump oil to the bearings and all through the oil gallery's , , or a pre lube tank no dry starts , https://paceperformance.com/i-23872826-all10535-engine-oil-pressure-primer-tank.html

 

[accel]

Maybe your oil pump lost some of it's prime. But even at 5~7 seconds without full oil pressure isn't going to smoke a motor. Guess you could try the "push the gas pedal to the floor and crank" procedure until oil pressure is seen. But as mentioned before, even doing that the engine parts are still moving against each other even though the engine is just cranking over from the starter.

Lost its prime? It's literally new engine.

 

[accel]

I just don't understand why everyone is so worried about this.

Cause some of us have unhealthy engine noises.

 

[GT Pony]

Lost its prime? It's literally new engine.

Google "lose of oil pump prime during oil change". It's possible the oil pump drained out some during the oil change and it took a little longer to reestablish enough suction to prime back up.

 

[accel]

Google "lose of oil pump prime during oil change". It's possible the oil pump drained out some during the oil change and it took a little longer to reestablish enough suction to prime back up.

You ve mentioned you let car stay for 2 hours and it takse 3 seconds to regain the pressure.

I give oil some reasonable time to drain with front wheels on ramp, but less that 2 hours. Maybe 15-30 minutes depending on my time constraints.

And your pump takes 3 seconds versus mine more like 7.

I wondrr if that might be the issue with oil pump that is specific to ticking engines.

'Cause my car is also not my dd. Sometimes it is a week between engine starts. If somehow my engine does let oil drain more than other engines, then every engine start is almost dry engine start and hence the tick...

 

[GT Pony]

You ve mentioned you let car stay for 2 hours and it takse 3 seconds to regain the pressure.

I give oil some reasonable time to drain with front wheels on ramp, but less that 2 hours. Maybe 15-30 minutes depending on my time constraints.

And your pump takes 3 seconds versus mine more like 7.

I wondrr if that might be the issue with oil pump that is specific to ticking engines.

'Cause my car is also not my dd. Sometimes it is a week between engine starts. If somehow my engine does let oil drain more than other engines, then every engine start is almost dry engine start and hence the tick...

My Mustang is not a daily driver either. If it sits a week and I fire it up, the oil pressure will indicate "Normal" on the dash just from cranking by the time the engine fires up. Keep in mind I don't have the PP, so no oil pressure gauge on the dash, but just the "Low", "Normal" or "High" indicator in the information center. So my oil pressure might show "Normal" when yours is half way between zero and full running oil pressure. Kind of an apples to oranges comparison.

How long does it take your car to get full oil pressure if it's been sitting for a few days?

 

[accel]

My Mustang is not a daily driver either. If it sits a week and I fire it up, the oil pressure will indicate "Normal" on the dash just from cranking by the time the engine fires up. Keep in mind I don't have the PP, so no oil pressure gauge on the dash, but just the "Low", "Normal" or "High" indicator in the information center. So my oil pressure might show "Normal" when yours is half way between zero and full running oil pressure. Kind of an apples to oranges comparison.

How long does it take your car to get full oil pressure if it's been sitting for a few days?

ah, if you have an indicator, then it would be a different story in regards to seconds

My 7 second interval was for the extent of oil pressure needle reaching its high point for given oil viscosity and stabilizing at that point. That would definitely be different than for the lamp to indicate normal pressure.

After a week of no use needle is jumping up really fast.

 

[accel]

The oil I referred to in my post is what comes in the cars in the UK and what all Ford dealers service Mustangs with.

Castrol Magnatec 5W-20 E, spec WSS-M2C948-B

One non-scientific guess is that the clinging molecules technology is what helps prevent the tick. I am sure there are other oils that have that tech of course.

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-79184-...eco-boost-fully-synthetic-car-engine-oil.aspx

Consumer Version

Professional Version (same thing but what is sold to businesses)

It is known that UK cars do not have bbq tick as widespread as we do in US. Above might be possible clue.

Notice how this particular castrol and mos2 approach similar problem - engine protection in absence of oil.

 

[Condor1970]

It is known that UK cars do not have bbq tick as widespread as we do in US. Above might be possible clue.

Notice how this particular castrol and mos2 approach similar problem - engine protection in absence of oil.

There's also quite few in the UK, but also note they don't sell near as many there. I think all of Europe last year was less than 10,000 units. The USA sells 4 times that.

If the 5w20 Castrol does a good job, I wonder if thinner oil has something to do with less ticking issues? I know there's been a lot of people like me who have noticed the ticking is actually the same or louder with 5w30 oil.

Also, what kind of additive is in the Castrol? I wouldn't be surprised if it's high in Boron.

 

[GT Pony]

Also, what kind of additive is in the Castrol? I wouldn't be surprised if it's high in Boron.

Here's a VOA on Magnatec 5W-30 back in mid 2018.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...92/voa-castrol-magnatec-d1g2-5w30#Post4790192

Here's a UOA on Magnatec 5W-30 just recently. The additives typically don't change a lot depending on how many miles are on the oil.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...5268419/06-scion-tc-5w30-magnatec#Post5268419

 

[Condor1970]

So, lots of Calcium to clean, and a bit of Moly. I THINK IT HAS M

Here's a VOA on Magnatec 5W-30 back in mid 2018.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...92/voa-castrol-magnatec-d1g2-5w30#Post4790192

Here's a UOA on Magnatec 5W-30 just recently. The additives typically don't change a lot depending on how many miles are on the oil.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...5268419/06-scion-tc-5w30-magnatec#Post5268419

So, lots of calcium, and a bit of Moly. I think it probably has more to do with a good dose of cleaning agents, and being nice and thin at low oil pressure to keep the HLA's running without any sluggishness.

 

[BlackandBlue]

The mysterious tick. Few facts and many theories.

Facts about the tick. The sound comes from the passenger side rear of engine. Louder when cold on most cars. Louder after an oil change. Louder and more common on 2018+ cars. Has been around in some form since 2011.

My personal opinion is that’s its some kind cavitation. Most likely on the backside of the crank where it meets the last or second to last rod. This would be an area of highest oil pressure. Oil will naturally carbon up as it ages. Carbon changes the cavitation properties of the oil. Moly and x17 will do the same. The 2018 uses a different oil pan witch most likely helps the amplify the sound. The larger bore size may also allow the rod to walk on the crank more vs the smaller piston. Cavitation is also none rhythmic unlike most mechanical engine noises.

Oddly enough I think engines that tick are most likely built on the tighter end of the specs.

I haven’t ran across any other theories that check all the boxes.

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