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Procharged 2016 GT/CS Journal

Jaehead

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So it’s the Midwest and it’s started to snow. The car’s been put away, and a lot has changed in the year and a half I’ve owned it. So thought I’d take a couple hours and write up what’s been done to the car.

First off, it’s a 2016 GT California Special.
- 400a w/ nav
- MT82
- 3.55 rear end

Current mods:
- Roush mufflers + ford performance x-pipe
- Ford track handling package (M-FR3A-M8)
- Procharger P1SC HO kit
- 95lb injectors
- Red race BOV
- Spur gearset
- MRR M350 staggered, 19x10 and 19x11. 275 35 front and 285 35 rear

Picked it up brand new July 2016. Road tripped it home. The day I picked it up:
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2016-07-11 13.49.37 HDR

Within 2 weeks I had the roush axlebacks installed on the car, then x pipes couple months later:
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2016-09-24 13.29.47 HDR

[ame]

Did a lot of firsts in this car. First time drag racing, first time autox, first time wrenching.
First ¼ passes. Went 14.0 @ 107.
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2016-10-05 06.57.09

First autox event. F street, got stomped by pretty much every other car out there.
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2016-10-09 14.14.46 HDR

A little photo shoot by the lake
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At about 10k miles the ford performance track handling kit went in. much stiffer than stock, and more low is always better!
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2016-11-23 17.04.56
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On 1” spacers on skinny 8.5 whels
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12/16/16. Big ice storm in the Midwest. Was about 150 miles away from home at the time. Took 13 hrs to get home, and was probably the sketchiest drive I’ll ever do. Going down the road at 20 mph and feeling the car slide strafe sideways with the steering locked on center. Not oversteer / understeer. Tons of cars stranded / left in a ditch. Would not recommend.
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2016-12-16 20.27.48
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2016-12-16 20.27.54
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2016-12-17 04.04.56

March 2017, at 20k miles, installed the procharger P1 HO complete kit. Pretty straightforward. Most difficult parts were the bumper removal, sound tube delete, and trimming the compressor outlet hose. All known points. One thing to note, is that for me I had to reclock the compressor housing about 10 deg to make the outlet hose fit better.
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Next month, took it out to the local track. Second time at the ¼, ran a 12.9 @ 115. Now I realize I’m not the best driver, but something had to be off. Also was noticing a lot of false knock, and at WOT car wouldn’t command more than 13-14 deg. Took it apart and wouldn’t you know..
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2017-05-05 18.58.15

Bought some generic t-bolts, and paint marked them to see if they’d move. It’s been about 12k since and both inlet and outlet hasn’t gone anywhere.
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2017-05-05 20.10.31

Kept on hitting the local ¼. First pass after fixing the boost leak was 12.4 @ 125. Then it was 12.2 @ 125, then 12.0 @ 125, and 11.8 @ 125. Why 125? That’s the top of 4th gear with a 255 40 19. I was on the limiter before the ¼, but not long enough that a shift to 5th would lower my ET. So much better on that front. The car was also commanding 19-21 deg timing after the boost leak. Not sure why a leak can pull timing, but I’ll take it. By the end of the season, the best pass I’ve made was a 11.67 @ 125 with a 2.0 60’. Biggest problem now is fighting the wheel hop at launch and the 1-2 shift.

Summer of 2017, found a local killer deal on a set of MRR M350s. also found a killer deal on a set of new continental extremecontact sports. $550 for 2 275 35 19s and 2 285 35 19s. Great tires, but a 285 is a bit stretched on a 11”. Probably replace that with a set of 305 35 next year since rear tires were shot after 4k miles. And hopefully that’ll also give me that few extra mph at the ¼!
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And that’s currently where I’m at with the car so far. As of Dec 2017 it’s sitting at 34k miles. Next up on my to-do list:
- New rear tires
- Long tubes
- BAP
- Pulley

Yep, currently on stock fuel pump without a BAP. I’ve been logging regularly and it holds 11.3 all the way up to 7500 RPM. But I figure I’m real close to the limit, and long tubes might push me over what the stock pump can do. And if I get a BAP, then might as well pulley down? It’s a slippery slope..

I’ll leave this with some of my favorite shots of the car.
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Crackerjack17

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Nice writeup! My car ran similar times, but I'm down compression in cyl. 7&8 after approx 10k miles with supercharger. Awaiting on my new forged shortblock to be built.
 

H@mmer

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Man, I love reading journals like this.
Keep it up! Looking forward to more!
 

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Jaehead

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It's been a while, because it's been cold and nothing's been happening to the car.

I've been meaning to get myself a catch can for a while, so when I saw UPR's system for a good price, I decided to jump on it.

Packaging was good, and the lines all come pre cut, although mine did not come with instructions, so had to do a bit of digging around.

Few things to keep in mind if you are planning on installing:
- you need to reuse the procharger T fitting that connects the driver side PCV to the IMRC vent.
- taking the old PCV lines off is a PITA. i'd suggest taking the inlet off the blower, as well as the driver's front wheel liner.
- the catch can mounts to a tab that comes off the strut tower. all the photos i've seen mount the catch can on top of the tab, but I could NOT get the thing to align. For me I had to use the bottom of the tab to mount the can.

Before:
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some good lookin lines:
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access to the stock procharger PCV routing. this is with the air filter and wheel liner removed:
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catch can mounted:
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after:
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2018-01-19 18.10.34

here's my routing. red is dirty line, yellow is IMRC vent, and green is clean (goes to the intake).
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39756276282_2b489f5079_o
 
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Jaehead

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also, while i had the inlet off i figure might as well see what it looks like when you fire it up

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Jaehead

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Been a while, the car's been the same since last update. Currently sitting at 46k miles. Still on stock clutch!

But picked up a few goodies during this sales season!

Picked up a set of Apex SM10s in "anthracite". 19x11 square setup, et52 all around.
https://i.imgur.com/ZnOve1j.png

In order to fit the 19x11s up front, also picked up a pair of Steeda camber plates, with ARP 100-7733 extended studs for the fronts. Thinking about 3deg of negative camber in the front and it should tuck nicely.

And a new set of NGK 6510s for good measure.

Will update install and finished pics as everything rolls in!

Couple of recent shots:
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DSC_0965-Pano-2 by Jae Choi, on Flickr

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DSC_0149-2 by Jae Choi, on Flickr
 

Wolvee

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Just Beautiful Bud. Your Autocross videos make me want to sway back to wanting a Procharger instead of a PD blower.
 
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Jaehead

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Just Beautiful Bud. Your Autocross videos make me want to sway back to wanting a Procharger instead of a PD blower.
haha sometimes i feel the other way! i sometimes think about TVS setups or even going twins, but this does everything i need it to do and then some. already a handful for autocross!
 

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Jaehead

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Dec 9 2018 Update!

In the past couple weeks found out that I finally plugged my stock catalytic converters. My symptoms were:

- flashing CEL ('soft' random misfire P0300, no CEL on dash)
- loss of power after 5k RPM
- overboosting at high RPMs (10psi with a P1SC on a 3.7 pulley???)

So I pulled the passenger side cat (flanged side) and it looked like this:
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20181125_194546 by Jae Choi, on Flickr

Thankfully, this was about the best time for the car to go down, because it was black friday week and there were all sorts of deals going on! So picked up a set of TSP catless long tubes and a Vortech BAP (didn't run one before!)

There's lots of documentation and videos going around regarding long tubes install so I won't post them all, but here's a few tips that doesn't seem to appear on popular how-to guides:

- Most headers come with header bolts, which requires you to pull out the studs. To me that's super sketchy. So I tried to remove the least amount as possible. I had to take out 3 studs for the long tubes, all on the passenger side. Circled are the studs I removed.
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Capture by Jae Choi, on Flickr
- Remove the battery tray and the insulation! Makes it easier to get to the header bolt closest to the passenger side firewall. Also lets you reach the infamous AC stud easily.
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DSC_0032 by Jae Choi, on Flickr
- Speaking of the AC line, I removed the bracket entirely and relocated the bracket to one of the extruding battery insulation bolts. At least, thats the plan. Currently it's zip tied to the positive battery wire.
- First time I dropped the motor back on the mounts after installing the headers, noticed that i had much less clearance to the frame rails on the passenger side than the driver's side. If this is the case, jack the motor up slightly, pull it towards the driver's side, then drop the jack. The motor mounts have slight adjustment built into them.
- Most writeups and videos I've seen, they were lifting the motor from the oil pan. It's a bit uncomfortable for me to do that, so I lifted from the bellhousing instead.
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20181208_211312 by Jae Choi, on Flickr

Some other pics during the install:
- Driver's side stock behemoth
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DSC_0033 by Jae Choi, on Flickr
- Driver's side long tubes fitted
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DSC_0040 by Jae Choi, on Flickr
- Clearance between steering shaft and primaries
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DSC_0045 by Jae Choi, on Flickr
- Passenger side long tubes installed and all accessories reinstalled
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DSC_0053 by Jae Choi, on Flickr
- Finished product
46201969122_5280d37bc3_b.jpg
DSC_0052 by Jae Choi, on Flickr


All done! last pic is sitting on steeda camber plates. Front wheel spec is 19x10 et15 (et40 with 25mm spacer)
46201960132_cb85e545a9_b.jpg
DSC_0006 by Jae Choi, on Flickr
 
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Jaehead

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Oh, can't post a headers update without a video!

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