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DIY 18' manifold swap into 15-17'

Racerx009

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Excellent write up thank you
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Safridi22

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Hey Folks

I have an s550 with a paxton and the Beefcake torque booster kit (wastegate/3.33 inch). If i were to swap to a ported 18 manifold, would locking out the imrc be advised? Would it make any difference? I iust havent been able to find any info yet.

Thanks
 

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Hey Folks

I have an s550 with a paxton and the Beefcake torque booster kit (wastegate/3.33 inch). If i were to swap to a ported 18 manifold, would locking out the imrc be advised? Would it make any difference? I iust havent been able to find any info yet.

Thanks
Boosted, oh yeah lock'em out.
 

BmacIL

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Lock em out either way .
 

Safridi22

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Thanks guys i really appreciate the help. So my plans changed and im awaiting my gt350 manifold i just ordered from tascaparts ($670 shipped!). I ordered the lockouts, the mmr adapter and jdm install kit. Would you guys happen to know of or have any pics of what the vacuum routing looks like with the Gt350 manifold installed on a paxton car with the lockouts?

Thanks
 

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jsprek01

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Thanks guys i really appreciate the help. So my plans changed and im awaiting my gt350 manifold i just ordered from tascaparts ($670 shipped!). I ordered the lockouts, the mmr adapter and jdm install kit. Would you guys happen to know of or have any pics of what the vacuum routing looks like with the Gt350 manifold installed on a paxton car with the lockouts?

Thanks
There is a complete install on LMR.com


Hope this helps.
 

Safridi22

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It does and i appreciate the help. Ive watched it almost 6 times but I wanted to know if those with a paxton and the gt350 manifold would be able to post a few pictures of how the vacuum routing is suppose to look like. I searched and found that getting the gt350 brake booster is recommended by some. I didn't order it yet though. Wasn't sure if I needed it just yet. My manifold should be here in like 3 days. I definitely feel confident enough to do the install myself, thanks to everyone here. Can the install be a one man job? After watching all types of youtube videos I'm guessing the worst part is dealing with the clips in the back. Ill be doing this in a poorly lit parking garage in Harrisburg PA lol. Lets see how it goes. Thanks again for the link.
 

WildHorse

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Any of you guys see if the whole 15-17 IMRC can be transferred over to the 18 manifold? That would save a headache or two.
 

EFI

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Any of you guys see if the whole 15-17 IMRC can be transferred over to the 18 manifold? That would save a headache or two.
You can just re-use the 18 IMRCs that are already installed in the manifold itself. No need to physically remove them from the 15 manifold and install them on the 18.

You just need a pigtail to have them be functional.
 

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WildHorse

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You just need a pigtail to have them be functional.
That's what I was wondering, if you can transfer it over, no need for the pigtails that may/may not work.
 

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That's what I was wondering, if you can transfer it over, no need for the pigtails that may/may not work.
The pigtails 100% work, not sure why you're doubting them.

I'm sure you can cut up the manifolds, extract the parts, swap them over and then JB weld the manifold back up. Not sure why you'd want to do all that work when the alternative costs 60 bux and a 30 second job.
 

WildHorse

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Little tip: After a few heat cycles retorque the IM to the factory specs. 100 in-lbs + 30* turn. Don't use a battery powered impact.
 

Jwod1993

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Awesome write up by the OP. Helped me a lot with the install process.

Question for the group - I went with a steeda tune, I kept IMRC functionality using the VMP harness adapter. I am getting a P2004 code when driving which is telling me one of the IMRCs is stuck open. Has anyone else had this issue? Is it an issue with the tune or is it an issue with my mechanical work? Any insight is appreciated.

I reached out to steeda earlier today to see if they are able to correct it. Still waiting to hear back.

thanks,
Jake
 

WildHorse

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I am getting a P2004 code when driving which is telling me one of the IMRCs is stuck open.
It's not reading the correct voltage. Could be the tune, could be wire/pin resistance, CMCV going out of range. Something along those lines. Hard to nail down other than process of elimination.
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