2018 Active Exhaust Install Guide

[mejohn50]

Just adding to the knowledge base:

I have a 2019 GT, 301a, non-PP, auto, Safe and Smart, enhanced security and I HAVE the plug for active exhaust.

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[ehazel]

Adding Mine aswell.

2018 GT, 400a, A10, PP1, Safe and Smart, VoiceNav. I do NOT have the plug.

 

[jake_zx2]

Just adding to the knowledge base:

I have a 2019 GT, 301a, non-PP, auto, Safe and Smart, enhanced security and I HAVE the plug for active exhaust.

Do you have Shaker Pro sound system?

 

[swooshdave]

but again since this is a lemon, the dealers are not making money. I guess thats why it takes so much time for everybody.


Ford RAV said the special orders take 5-6 months right now (not sure if it is really true or there is a different agenda here). I would be okay with 6months wait since I am now on my 2018 till replacement happens. BUT, Ford RAV is not ok with it. they said I need to pick a car that already exists and my dealer supposed to bring it here.
We were able to find only one "Vel. Blue 301A PP1 AA" but the dealer which has it doesn't wanna trade it with my dealer. They havent even replied to my dealer. I called couple of times today and they simply said no for any trade. Saying, I need to buy it from them.

I ordered end of August (quoted 6-9 weeks by one very green salesman) and now they are saying maybe a build date in December. Maybe they halted the line to fix the engine knock problem? No AE so it might get added later.

 

[mejohn50]

Do you have Shaker Pro sound system?

Nope. Just the one that comes with 301a/Sync 3, so the 9 speaker system I think it is.

 

[Andy13186]

Can this work with a QTP wireless controller?

 

[Mickeymeanie]

Just got it all installed today. Love the sound! Thanks guys for figuring this out.

How did you end up sourcing the wiring from the plug to the actuators? Seems like that wire harness is one of the missing links... and what has held me back from ordering and doing this. Part nimber would be great if you have it!!

Thanks!

 

[mfoley13]

How did you end up sourcing the wiring from the plug to the actuators? Seems like that wire harness is one of the missing links... and what has held me back from ordering and doing this. Part number would be great if you have it!!

Thanks!

Got mine from Levittown Ford. First part is the "splitter" and then the two jumpers.

QTY 1 JR3Z-14A411-J Wire Assembly - Jumper

QTY 2 JR3Z-14A411-H Wire Assembly - Jumper

 

[swooshdave]

How did you end up sourcing the wiring from the plug to the actuators? Seems like that wire harness is one of the missing links... and what has held me back from ordering and doing this. Part nimber would be great if you have it!!

Thanks!

Part numbers are listed throughout this topic, and thank you to the people who posted them.

 

[88lx50]

How did you end up sourcing the wiring from the plug to the actuators? Seems like that wire harness is one of the missing links... and what has held me back from ordering and doing this. Part nimber would be great if you have it!!

Thanks!

Levittown Ford as well. I got the mufflers from them too.

 

[KewlWinter]

2018 EcoBoost Premium 201A Manual, Safe & Smart, Shaker Pro, Nav, non-PP, no Magnaride. I HAVE the plug!

 

[FISHTAIL]

No, but I'm finally home this weekend, and hoping to verify that pinout location. I've already got all my parts too, minus the wire I'll need to run from the control harness back to the mufflers anyway, so I need to validate that pinout before I can wire mine up. I suspect the connection we need to tap into will be behind the drivers side kick panel, so it should be clean and easy to wire up the controls (you'll have to run power separate).

 

[Choking_Victim]

No, but I'm finally home this weekend, and hoping to verify that pinout location. I've already got all my parts too, minus the wire I'll need to run from the control harness back to the mufflers anyway, so I need to validate that pinout before I can wire mine up. I suspect the connection we need to tap into will be behind the drivers side kick panel, so it should be clean and easy to wire up the controls (you'll have to run power separate).

Looking forward to your findings.

 

[FISHTAIL]

Ok Gents, sorry this took so long. I finally had some time to yank that kick panel. Good news, the wires terminate there.

So, if you pull your drivers kick panel, behind that you'll find 3 plugs right down near the dead pedal. The one closest to the firewall is C264, and that's the one you want. Pins 1, 2, 3, and 4 are the pins that control the active exhaust. The female side of the harness (the top) will have the wires present, this is the harness that comes off of the PCM. With the push release tab on your left, and the female side of the harness facing you, the pins are ordered from top to bottom, with pin 1 being the top left corner. They are colored:
Pin 1: BN-GN -> Goes to Pin #2 on the combined exhaust harness, or pin #4 on the LH Side solenoid harness.
Pin 2: WH-BU -> Goes to Pin #3 on the combined exhaust harness, or pin #4 on the RH side solenoid harness.
Pin 3: GY -> goes to Pin #11 on the combined exhaust harness, or pin #2 on the RH side solenoid harness.
Pin 4: BU-GN -> goes to Pin #9 on the combined exhaust harness, or pin #2 on the LH side solenoid harness.

On the individual solenoid harnesses, Pin #1 is chassis GND, Pin #3 is switched power. On the combined harness, #7 is switched power, #6 is ground.

The diagram for all of that is posted up in this thread a number of pages back, but the good news for those of us without the pre-wire is the PCM wiring is available inside the car. We just have to tie into the back side of the body harness near the dead pedal assembly.

Getting the kick panel off is a bit of a pain, the release handle pops straight off if you stick a 10mm socket in it after removing the center cap, then I found it easiest to pull the whole panel straight back rather than trying to remove that push pin up front (mine was VERY stubborn).

 

[FISHTAIL]

From here, we can all tap into those wires and run control, then tap into switched power, or maybe someone here would be willing to make a more professional type getup that plugs into the back of C264. This is just for the control, I haven't hunted for where the factory power ties in, but I figured switched power was the easier thing to solve.

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