Norm Peterson
corner barstool sitter
- Thread starter
- #1
Over the years I've replaced more than a few studs, and have a pretty low opinion of using lug nuts and an impact tool to draw the new ones in. While using a press is still the best method, I've got a procedure that doesn't give up much.
After knocking each stud out, wire-brush the back side of the hub flange to remove any rust.
What I do for the install is use a stack of stainless steel flat washers and a regular hex nut of appropriate thread. You want stainless rather than zinc-plated for the smooth surface finish, and you will need to restrain the whole business from rotating (brakes with an assistant or applied P-brake if rear being best). With a little grease between a couple of the washers and a little on the stud threads you can draw the stud tight with little more than normal effort on a 1/2" ratchet or maybe a normal-length breaker bar. Just be absolutely sure you wash all of the grease off the stud threads when you're done (acetone works very well for this). You will still want to recheck wheel torque after driving a few miles, like you should following any method of wheel stud replacement - or any wheel replacement on the same studs for that matter.
This method pretty much eliminates any possibility of drawing the stud in a little crooked.
It just so happened I had a car up in the air for an unrelated matter when I put this together for another thread, so it was really easy to go get a picture. I've only showed two washers, but the number isn't too important as long as you've got good thread engagement in the nut.
Seems (that with a little light editing) it belongs here as well, for greater visibility among the community. Hope it helps.
Norm
After knocking each stud out, wire-brush the back side of the hub flange to remove any rust.
What I do for the install is use a stack of stainless steel flat washers and a regular hex nut of appropriate thread. You want stainless rather than zinc-plated for the smooth surface finish, and you will need to restrain the whole business from rotating (brakes with an assistant or applied P-brake if rear being best). With a little grease between a couple of the washers and a little on the stud threads you can draw the stud tight with little more than normal effort on a 1/2" ratchet or maybe a normal-length breaker bar. Just be absolutely sure you wash all of the grease off the stud threads when you're done (acetone works very well for this). You will still want to recheck wheel torque after driving a few miles, like you should following any method of wheel stud replacement - or any wheel replacement on the same studs for that matter.
This method pretty much eliminates any possibility of drawing the stud in a little crooked.
It just so happened I had a car up in the air for an unrelated matter when I put this together for another thread, so it was really easy to go get a picture. I've only showed two washers, but the number isn't too important as long as you've got good thread engagement in the nut.
Seems (that with a little light editing) it belongs here as well, for greater visibility among the community. Hope it helps.
Norm
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