Clutch suggestions..'16GTPP

[Wolvee]

So I'm building a Master of None car. *A Daily Driver that's borderline too much but does weekend warrior stuff. I understand it'll never be competitive because I won't stop it from being a DD.

I need a clutch but most recommendations I see are usually for Drag racing. For good pedal feel, Autocross and eventually bigger tacks what kind of clutch AND SETUP do you guys suggest?

I think Steeda uses an Exiddy single in their car but Mantic seems to be the "golden goose" brand that people never seem to have an issue with. I'm not as concerned with the cost as I figured it would be a lot but I don't want to buy something because it costs more.

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[Hack]

I would recommend the stock clutch for autocross and road course use.

 

[ddozier]

I ran the stock clutch on a dedicated track car shifting at 7200 rpm for 2 seasons of track use, the clutch did fine until it did not. If you plan to tune the car and use it at high RPM shifts it will eventually fail with the most common failure being the disk sprung hub failing or the clutch material delaminating from one side of the clutch disc. Either one is usually not catastrophic and rarely causing any damage beyond the clutch itself. Clutch jobs are easy and fairly quick to do, so other than the potential down time and tow bill I would run the OEM clutch till it fails then upgrade, unless you have another reason to remove the trans from the car.

If you are planning basic bolt on power adders and no forced induction or nitrous then once you need a replacement I would consider the Exedy Stage1 replacement as a slightly better than OE clutch, pedal pressure is slightly stiffer (Apox 10% stiffer) but I only noticed it the first time I drove the car after the change was made then I adapted quickly and do not notice a higher pedal pressure anymore. The Exedy uses more of the flywheel and pressure plate as the surface area of the disk itself is larger than the OE clutch. This should translate into longer wear. Clamping force and bite are slightly better than OE. Bite point is the same if you keep or replace the hydraulic throw-out with another OE part. It is available as a complete clutch kit or a clutch only. If you keep the OE flywheel the car drives very OE like, but if you change the flywheel to a lightweight unit the cars attitude changes slightly and feels quicker and more willing to rev. I use the word FEELS because this is subjective and the average person will not notice much of a change and someone who has never driven the car before will have no idea that it did not come this way from the factory. Sort of like when you put on a louder exhaust the car feels faster, when in reality if there is an improvement in power output it is hardly measurable.

If you are planning a major power adder then the decision is harder and will require a much more expensive clutch to deal with the high RPMs on track use and the added TQ of a super charger or turbo setup. Most likely you will be looking at a twin disk to meet both of those needs and that forces you into a different price point than a simple OE type single disk clutch.

Hope that helps and good luck with your decision.

Dave

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