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What to add factory subwoofer to trunk.

Cobra Jet

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For the 2018 owners who don’t have that blue sub harness connector in the trunk, does anyone know the part number to the actual harness and possible cost? I’m assuming it runs from the front of the car to that rear location?
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Akeldama

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Which dealer did you order if from?
AutoNation Ford in Brooksville, FL. If you're interested in the Super Snake, PM me, I took some photos.
 

Akeldama

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For the 2018 owners who don’t have that blue sub harness connector in the trunk, does anyone know the part number to the actual harness and possible cost? I’m assuming it runs from the front of the car to that rear location?
If you don't have the blue connector in the trunk, I'd strongly suggest you just go with an after market solution. All the time you'd spend to route that complex wring harness from the front of the vehicle all the way across and to the trunk would be better spent just running the necessary power cables for a sub and amp of your choosing.
 

opengl

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Okay, just finished my install. It wasn't horrible to do. By far the worst part was swapping out the DSP, probably because I have a manual and a clutch pedal in the way. I took out the OBD connector which helped, otherwise its a lot of laying on your back cursing and wiggling and cutting your fingers up. I also knocked the clutch safety switch loose, but it snapped right back into place.

I couldn't find a U nut for the upper subwoofer bracket bolt, so I duct taped a regular nut in place and was barely able to get the bolt threaded on. Wasn't fun though. As mentioned before, all the bolts are M8x1.25. The bottom four can be any length, I think mine were 30mm which is way to long but there's nothing below them to foul on. The upper bolt needs to be shorter, I believe I used a 20mm.

I did a test run before trimming the carpet up and it didn't work, I was pretty bummed thinking I got a bad subwoofer, but I just didn't have the blue connector snapped all the way in. There's a lever you need to swing shut.

Trimming the carpet does suck, but you don't need to be super precise. The sub's cosmetic cover at the bottom pretty much covers everything up unless you do a total hatchet job.

Sounds great. Much better bass, obviously. I still have the rest of my stock speakers, may look into swapping the front center one out still. But the sound is much improved. I did notice what some others had mentioned about needing the volume louder to get the same level as before the new DSP, probably a speaker impedance thing. I need to go to 20 to get what used to be around 15. No big deal.

IMG_7282.jpg
IMG_7279.jpg
IMG_7276.jpg
IMG_7272.jpg
IMG_7268.jpg
 

Akeldama

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Looks like an install well done opengl128. I have a manual as well, so I encountered the same issues with the DSP install. Removing the OBD connector sure would have helped, I wish I would have thought of that! Removing the clutch safety switch is a must, thankfully it's easy to just snap in and out. Once I had the DSP in place, I left off the top bolt as the original was such a massive pain to remove I just didn't want to bother. I haven't heard any rattles so far, so I'm inclined to just never put that bolt back in.
 

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For any of you doing this mod. I just realized that I saved the amp that attaches to the back of the sub.
Includes the input and output connectors.
Shoot me a PM if in need.
 

Cobra Jet

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Okay, just finished my install. It wasn't horrible to do. By far the worst part was swapping out the DSP, probably because I have a manual and a clutch pedal in the way. I took out the OBD connector which helped, otherwise its a lot of laying on your back cursing and wiggling and cutting your fingers up. I also knocked the clutch safety switch loose, but it snapped right back into place.

I couldn't find a U nut for the upper subwoofer bracket bolt, so I duct taped a regular nut in place and was barely able to get the bolt threaded on. Wasn't fun though. As mentioned before, all the bolts are M8x1.25. The bottom four can be any length, I think mine were 30mm which is way to long but there's nothing below them to foul on. The upper bolt needs to be shorter, I believe I used a 20mm.

I did a test run before trimming the carpet up and it didn't work, I was pretty bummed thinking I got a bad subwoofer, but I just didn't have the blue connector snapped all the way in. There's a lever you need to swing shut.

Trimming the carpet does suck, but you don't need to be super precise. The sub's cosmetic cover at the bottom pretty much covers everything up unless you do a total hatchet job.

Sounds great. Much better bass, obviously. I still have the rest of my stock speakers, may look into swapping the front center one out still. But the sound is much improved. I did notice what some others had mentioned about needing the volume louder to get the same level as before the new DSP, probably a speaker impedance thing. I need to go to 20 to get what used to be around 15. No big deal.

IMG_7282.jpg
IMG_7279.jpg
IMG_7276.jpg
IMG_7272.jpg
IMG_7268.jpg

Did you have to mess with any As Built (Forscan) settings at all - or you just did exactly as described and seen in your pics (R&R’d hardware and turned on system afterwards)?

Thx!!
 

Akeldama

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I didn't change any Forscan settings at all when I did my install. It was plug and play.
 

opengl

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Yeah same.
 

Dans18GT

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I finally have all of the pieces to get this done thanks to The Parts Farm and their outstanding customer service. FedEx shipping was a huge fail but Matt and Kim took care of it.
Hopefully I'll get it done this weekend.

2018 301A pp1 with active exhaust. Thanks to everyone in this post that took the time to figure it out.
 

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Okay, just finished my install. It wasn't horrible to do. By far the worst part was swapping out the DSP, probably because I have a manual and a clutch pedal in the way. I took out the OBD connector which helped, otherwise its a lot of laying on your back cursing and wiggling and cutting your fingers up. I also knocked the clutch safety switch loose, but it snapped right back into place.

I couldn't find a U nut for the upper subwoofer bracket bolt, so I duct taped a regular nut in place and was barely able to get the bolt threaded on. Wasn't fun though. As mentioned before, all the bolts are M8x1.25. The bottom four can be any length, I think mine were 30mm which is way to long but there's nothing below them to foul on. The upper bolt needs to be shorter, I believe I used a 20mm.

I did a test run before trimming the carpet up and it didn't work, I was pretty bummed thinking I got a bad subwoofer, but I just didn't have the blue connector snapped all the way in. There's a lever you need to swing shut.

Trimming the carpet does suck, but you don't need to be super precise. The sub's cosmetic cover at the bottom pretty much covers everything up unless you do a total hatchet job.

Sounds great. Much better bass, obviously. I still have the rest of my stock speakers, may look into swapping the front center one out still. But the sound is much improved. I did notice what some others had mentioned about needing the volume louder to get the same level as before the new DSP, probably a speaker impedance thing. I need to go to 20 to get what used to be around 15. No big deal.

IMG_7282.jpg
IMG_7279.jpg
IMG_7276.jpg
IMG_7272.jpg
IMG_7268.jpg
You can fix the volume level issue by modifying Forscan settings for your ACM.
 

HextallS550

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After taking with a hextails550 he says the ecoboost cars use a different dsp module as they have fake engine sound so maybe that’s why the ecoboost is different who knows, I’m wandering if ford just used what they had early on
EB doesn’t use a different DSP module, they use a different ACM. There are 9 different versions of the ACM and the ones used by GT350 and EB have an additional DSP module built into them to synthesize the fake engine noise.
 

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EB doesn’t use a different DSP module, they use a different ACM. There are 9 different versions of the ACM and the ones used by GT350 and EB have an additional DSP module built into them to synthesize the fake engine noise.

Thanks that’s makes more sense
 

choate

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Thanks that’s makes more sense
I’ve got the blue connector on my ‘18 401A with active exhaust. Do you know if the Ford harness adaptor for the shaker sub would plug and play into a P300-12 Rockford Fosgate rather than the factory shaker sub?
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