Clutch pedal stuck for the 3rd time

[natepcbfl]

I guess I am going to bite the Bullitt and replace the clutch and slave, it's got 76k on it so its close to time anyways, I am crossing my fingers the MC is still good. Hopefully that will solve the clutch pedal not returning and the 1" of play at the very top which I always seem to have (which drives me crazy). I am driving a 2015 GTpp and boost is not really in any near future plans $$$$, unless of course I win a kit somewhere. I am only dealing with bolt ons and a tune for extra power so I dont think a 1000+hp clutch is really needed in my situation.

McLeod RST Twin Disc 800HP Clutch appears to be a suitable replacement for even the extreme of my needs ... anybody DD it that can shed some light on the streetability of it? @Crackerjack17 maybe?

Sponsored

 

[LethalPerformance]

I guess I am going to bite the Bullitt and replace the clutch and slave, it's got 76k on it so its close to time anyways, I am crossing my fingers the MC is still good. Hopefully that will solve the clutch pedal not returning and the 1" of play at the very top which I always seem to have (which drives me crazy). I am driving a 2015 GTpp and boost is not really in any near future plans $$$$, unless of course I win a kit somewhere. I am only dealing with bolt ons and a tune for extra power so I dont think a 1000+hp clutch is really needed in my situation.

McLeod RST Twin Disc 800HP Clutch appears to be a suitable replacement for even the extreme of my needs ... anybody DD it that can shed some light on the streetability of it? @Crackerjack17 maybe?

The RST is a great driving clutch. Light pedal effort, smooth engagement and capable of handling quite a bit of power. It's a little more forgiving then the RXT when slipping it from a stop as well.

It's a great clutch for a daily street setup.

We've got plenty of them in stock along with the slave cylinders so please feel free to give us a shout if you have any questions.

 

[Crackerjack17]

I guess I am going to bite the Bullitt and replace the clutch and slave, it's got 76k on it so its close to time anyways, I am crossing my fingers the MC is still good. Hopefully that will solve the clutch pedal not returning and the 1" of play at the very top which I always seem to have (which drives me crazy). I am driving a 2015 GTpp and boost is not really in any near future plans $$$$, unless of course I win a kit somewhere. I am only dealing with bolt ons and a tune for extra power so I dont think a 1000+hp clutch is really needed in my situation.

McLeod RST Twin Disc 800HP Clutch appears to be a suitable replacement for even the extreme of my needs ... anybody DD it that can shed some light on the streetability of it? @Crackerjack17 maybe?

If I let anybody drive my car, they would have no clue it has a different clutch than factory. silky smooth. You can let the clutch out without throttle and it will pull away smoothly. You can slip it and do slow gear changes. zero chatter. Smoothest "high performance" clutch I've ever owned. You need their flywheel though. The clutch discs won't mate up to the factory flywheel. But the 9lb lighter flywheel is awesome. Car rev's so much quicker, but still has enough weight to make pulling away from a stop and on hills a non-issue.

 

[V8EATR]

I'm a big fan or the RST, been in for 20k and has always been easy to drive and very smooth. Has taken a lot of abuse as well.

 

[Nghtshd88]

Might tow mine in tmrw for this same reason.. hoping its actually covered. I assume its a known issue by now..

 

[Yeto1]

Might tow mine in tmrw for this same reason.. hoping its actually covered. I assume its a known issue by now..

Mine was covered by the warranty the first time, I had 60,000 miles and my Ford Premium Care Covered it.

 

[Nghtshd88]

Mine was covered by the warranty the first time, I had 60,000 miles and my Ford Premium Care Covered it.

Guess it wasnt the clutch that caused it? Dealer just told me that isnt covered at 20k miles..

 

[Yeto1]

Guess it wasnt the clutch that caused it? Dealer just told me that isnt covered at 20k miles..

Damn, these dealers man, they are each different and do what they want. I guess I was lucky, but not so much. The one that the warranty replaced only lasted me 20,000 miles. I just spend $1,900 between McLeod RST clutch and labor

 

[Nghtshd88]

Took mine apart and the slave cyclinder not only fell apart the clutch disc was shattered.. just put a gt350 clutch with TR3160 trans in and its STILL getting stuck.. this can only mean it is indeed the master clutch cyclinder causing this. Unless Im that unlucky to have two bad slave cylinders hanging up One of the two is sticking. Are there any aftermarket options for the master?

 

[GregP27]

Your description down about the middle of the first pages sound like a definition of two common problems.


1) If you hold the clutch in at every stoplight rather than shift into neutral and let the it idle until sometime near when you expect the green light, the throwout bearing takes one heck of a load. Many times, the lubrication is less than wonderful and the throwout bearing can wear a slight dent into the transmission shaft. Happened to me in a 1979 Chevrolet pickup that had a Camaro manual 4-speed in it. Solution was a new shaft.
2) If you routinely heat up the clutch, two or even sometime three clutch basket fingers can literally weld together and prevent complete engagement unless you pull the pedal out with your foot. Solution was a new clutch basket.

On that same 1979 Chevy, I had to eventually do both: new clutch basket and new center shaft.

Good luck to you.

 

[Nghtshd88]

I replaced everything. It was indeed the cheap master cyclinder. $30 part. Dealer actually told me it couldn't be that. Well there you go. If your pedal ever gets stuck or loses pressure its more than likely the master.

Not a hard job either. Also put the steeda spring/perch in.

 

[GregP27]

Appreciate the "fix" reply.

My fixes above were not to a hydraulic clutch; they were for a regular manual clutch.

If that ever happens to me, I'll try the master cylinder first and THEN start the takedown to get to the internals if that doesn't work.

Glad you got it fixed and are back to happy running. Cheers.

 

[natepcbfl]

So I have been thinking about this while I have still been dealing with the pedal not returning (clutch is in the works but xmas ate up the funds). I put in the Steeda spring and thats when I noticed the clutch pedal weld had broke. I had not experienced the pedal not returning until I took out the clutch pedal (Friday night) and put it back in (Saturday morning). While I had the pedal out and the hydros disconnected I also put in a steel braided clutch line. I did the pump the pedal 1000 times thing to bleed it. Drove the car around for a bit and it was OK but, still felt weird. I figured it was the lighter spring and was still working air out of the system. Ran errands over the weekend and by Sunday night it felt almost perfect (drove normal and nothing over 4k RPM). I was thinking maybe the lighter spring and the last bit of air in it was the "weird" feeling. I took it easy for a few days to and from work. I figured plenty of stop and go traffic that I participate in daily would work the last bit of air out. So Friday comes along and everything seems fine. I figure its time to go back to my normal driving. On my Friday morning commute I take the ramp to I-565 (70mph) and of course I want to see how everything feels. Look over my shoulder and nobody coming for me to deal with merging, look up ahead and there is 1 car int he distance so, I punched it. Brought that thing up to 7k grinning ear to ear then I shift. I thought to myself that felt really strange, up shifted again, and I realized I didnt have to push the clutch down that far. So I go to 6th and this time I pay attention to exactly what its doing. Yep, I only had to push the clutch half as far. I reached down with my foot and pulled the pedal up. So since I had the interstate to myself basically I went back to 40mph and did a pull. Yep pedal only came half way back up. I got 87k on the clock so a new clutch is not a bad idea. I did read somewhere but, I cant remember where but, there was something about a special procedure to bleed the clutch besides pumping it. I am really wondering if everything is still good and there is just a air bubble trapped int eh system somewhere. I am at a loss wondering what will fix this as when I do get a new clutch, slave, bearing I really dont way to put all this in to just do the same thing. I have seen people talk about replacing the MC and that fixed it but, if its not needed then I really don't want to spend the cash. Is there anything special anybody did to bleed the clutch system that maybe made this issue go away?

 

[BigBeed]

Did you guys having the issues have a steeda or similar clutch spring installed by any chance, or have it removed completely? Researching the spring mod and I found when people remove the spring completely it causes issues with the clutch master. Curious if the spring has the same effect over time.

 

[V8EATR]

When your pedal sticks to the floor, it needs a clutch. You are wasting your time doing anything else

Sponsored