Moostang83
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2017
- Threads
- 3
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- 32
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- Location
- Tallahassee,FL
- Vehicle(s)
- 2017 Mustang GT
The car would run terrible on a stock tune due to that throttle body. Id say you're fine.
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Factory 2nd Gen 5.0 Rev Limit: 6,800 RPMGood point – and the max revs go from something like 6750 to 7250: so hopefully quite visible on the dial
It is very unlikely that the dealer would mess with an ECU flash unless there is an issue and a TSB addressing it. Otherwise they leave it alone to avoid possible problems (including a comm error that can brick your ECU, unlikely but it does happen).Help!
I had the Power Pack 2 installed by Ford on my 2016 Mustang GT last June - brilliant and well worth it.
I’ve just got one problem/question: is it possible to use the ProCal3 software (connected to the OBD port) that comes with it to check if the PP2 tune is still on the car or if it has been wiped off (re-flashed)? I ask because, when I later had my car serviced at a different Ford dealer in August, the power does not seem to be as obvious. Now this may be just because I’ve got used to the extra power, but I’d like to make sure.
I told the Ford dealer before the service that the PP2 was installed, but that doesn’t mean they didn’t re-flash the car anyway (by accident). I could ask them now, of course, but I doubt if I could trust their answer (not because they are lying but just because they wouldn’t know for sure).
So, how do I check if it is still on there? Does the ProCal3 software only install the tune? Or should I buy a little OBD2 Scan Tool (they work with your IPhone) – and that might be able to tell me?
Any help appreciated
John (based in UK)
There are many components in an engine that operate in boundary layer lubrication regime as well as mixed lubrication regime and even some in elasto-hydrodynamic regimes. For example, 45% of losses occur in the piston group / cylinder walls. Of that 45%, 4% is boundary layer, 18% is hydrodynamic, another 18% elasto-hydrodynamic and finally the remaining 5% is mixed lubrication regime. DLC coatings provide benefits in 3 of the 4 types of lubrication modes.well yeah engine oil is bad at boundary lubrication... it's supposed to be. The last thing you want is oil between your rings and cylinder walls.
The only other stop/start areas are the valve stems which are polished and under negligible radial loading.
All of the rotating components take the initial hydrostatic lubrication from the oil pump before they get to turning and build up their hydrodynamic layer during operation. At this point you're looking at nothing more than the shear forces within the fluid (oil) itself (viscosity) and how that will change with temperature. That's why 5w-20 is not an absolute depending on your environment. If your oil is thinning out too much at operating temp, you may consider a 5w-30 to keep the viscosity a little higher in the heat...
This was a much bigger problem with old flat tappet cams. If the lifters didn't spin, the wedge of oil never formed between the cam and lifter which resulted in metal-to-metal contact. This all depended on cam lobe angles and lifter offsets. in some applications, the thrust from the distributor drive gear would push the cam too far as the timing chain/gears wore out and allowed more endplay. Once the cam lobe came too far into alignment with the lifter bore, the lifter wouldn't spin and you'd drop that lobe. That doesn't really happen with rollers as there is a constant stream of oil wedged between the cam lobe and roller surface.
Also, friction remains constant. Engine speed does not change the coefficients. The difference is how quickly heat is generated. In an engine turning 4,000 RPM the pistons will travel twice as far and have twice as many reversing events as in an engine turning 2,000 RPM.
As far as the "BBQ tick" ( as an aside, I've never known any BBQing equipment to tick) goes, how many complainants are running oil that conforms to the Motorcraft spec? Even with excessive endplay in the connecting rods, what is the driving force that is causing them to move axially with sufficient velocity/force to be audible? Generally, excessive endplay in connecting rods just causes excessive leakage in the lubrication system. The path of least resistance for oil to flow back to the sump is no longer though the passages, but now out of the gap between the rods.
Ordered some today. I thought the Ford performance oil catch didnt work with PP2?There are many components in an engine that operate in boundary layer lubrication regime as well as mixed lubrication regime and even some in elasto-hydrodynamic regimes. For example, 45% of losses occur in the piston group / cylinder walls. Of that 45%, 4% is boundary layer, 18% is hydrodynamic, another 18% elasto-hydrodynamic and finally the remaining 5% is mixed lubrication regime. DLC coatings provide benefits in 3 of the 4 types of lubrication modes.
Valve train operates in mixed lubrication mode where both occurs depending on RPM and loads and the valve train constantly transitions in and out of the different modes. RPM alone is the not the defining characteristic, load, RPM and surface area all affect the operating regime.
If this were not the case any everything operated in hydrodynamic lubrication mode 99% of the time there would be no need for ZDDP anti-wear additives. Your cams, valve guides, timing chains and pistons won't last nearly as long without it however.
I would encourage you to read through some of the R&D papers as well as testing data, particularly the TriboTEX vehicle testing which provides some information of the lubrication regions of each of the common engine components. There are real and substantial benefits to be realized and I prove it every day I drive my GT. Others are now starting to use it as well with absolutely stellar results.
It pairs very well with the Ford Performance Power Packs and allows the 5.0 to make the absolute most out of each combustion event. It's not a golden egg that's going to transform your NA 5.0 into a 1,000 hp race engine, but it will provide substantial and noticeable gains in performance from increased response, more torque to the wheels, lower fuel consumption and dramatic increase in over all service life which is very good for a high revving V8 with a boat load of valve train.
The two negatives of DLC coatings such as TriboTEX, Cera Tec or Archoil are that DLC coatings are slow to form, the take hundreds or even thousands of miles of use before the coating fully form and some of them a bit pricey, but far from unobtainable and honestly dirt cheap compared to even a Power Pack cost.
I would highly recommend for the budget minded you pair your power pack with an oil catch can, a good off-the-shelf synthetic from Mobil 1, Valvoline, Penzoil etc. and TriboTEX as the golden trifecta of an engineered solution to make the most of the 2nd and 3rd gen 5.0's.
I think you will be quite impressed with how well your coyote runs, literally. The Power Pack is your warranty safe power adder, the catch can is your power loss preventer and the TriboTEX is your efficiency / durability enhancement to make the most of the other two. You can run any 5W-20 oil with that setup as long as it meets or exceeds Ford's spec, be it MC 5W-20 semi-syn, Mobil 1, AMSOIL, Penzoil, Valvoline tec. And no, oil isn't designed on purpose to suck at boundary layer, mixed mode and elasto-hydrodynamic lubrication regimes. It sucks at them because of technological and financial limitations, but is now being explored once again due to technological advances that make superior lubrication mechanisms financially viable.
I think the first person to try this trifecta with their power pack after the first 1,000 miles is going to back me up on how good it really is, it will be come the standard go to setup for anyone wanting a substantial over all refinement of their GT's 5.0L V8 without high risk and expensive modifications that often cause drive ability issues, reliability issues / risks and reduced fuel economy like E85, after market tunes, long tube headers etc. all while remaining emissions compliant, warranty covered and with better than stock fuel economy for those grand touring drives. It also provides substantially more wear protection for HPDE / track / auto x performance driving applications.
I use my GT for a variety of things, some times my wife and I just go out hot roding and cruising on new back country roads we've never driven on. Other times I use it for long trips to visit relatives. And other times still for HPDE driving (aka track). It's a multi-purpose street car that I can enjoy all year around and I'm very hesitant to sacrifice reliability and drive ability, but I will tolerate a little more NVH at times. My R efforts have been focused on a very well balanced car that's not miserable to drive but also performs extremely well when asked without breaking down.