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Bull's Jack-of-all-trades 2015 EB Premium PP

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Bull Run

Bull Run

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Drove in the mountain for the first time (with this car) with a couple of other Mustangs from a local club. The road had many wide curves that allowed for high-speed turns. The car felt very planted and nowhere close to the limit. A couple of friends want to go for a drive next week on a different mountain road with much tighter curves throughout. One of them drives a GT350R so I'll try my best to not fall behind too much. Took the car to a different alignment shop that'll actually touch aftermarket alignment adjusters (e.g. camber plates). Aside from getting caster and toe evened out little more, I also requested a little more camber for front and back. High speed turns feel even better now, so I'll see how it'll do on the mountain roads next week.


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@Bull Run, did you install that lightweight front bumper bar? I bought the same one and asked the body shop if they could install it while they had the front taken apart to install CF hood and fenders. They told me they couldn't get it to fit. I'm debating if I want to take the fascia off and try it for myself.
 

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@Bull Run, did you install that lightweight front bumper bar? I bought the same one and asked the body shop if they could install it while they had the front taken apart to install CF hood and fenders. They told me they couldn't get it to fit. I'm debating if I want to take the fascia off and try it for myself.
@Blue Moon I did installed the bumper bar. It was a straightforward install, just unbolted 4 bolts/side for the stock bumper and installed the bumper bar in its place. I zip-tied the wiring loom and the ambient temp sensor to the bar. You'll need to remove the plastic piece between the upper and lower grilles on the bumper cover.

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Brian V

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That's 1 way to eliminate the AGS .
 
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Did a couple of minor mods today. One was the addition of Autvivid 5.5" A8 HUD. I was using the paddle shifters during the last mountain road drive and didn't like having to take my eyes off of the road to glance at the tach. Also having coolant temp bars will also be nice for the track day. It would've been better to have boost/vacuum gauge rather than fuel consumption in litres, but I can't really complain since the HUD was only around $40 with the coupon. Visibility is good as long as you're not in the direct sunlight.

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The second mod was UPR Floating Pony Emblem with Bracket. I deleted the honeycomb to increase the airflow but my wife and daughter kept mentioning that they liked it better with the pony up front. Since I didn't mind the pony, I installed the UPR bracket to get it back on. They have an option for various colors for the pony, but I chose the chrome one to match how it came from the factory.

Installation was easy, only had to take off the radiator top cover and screw in two nuts and washers:
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View front the front:
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End result. This picture was taken from a slight angle but the emblem is centred on the grille:
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Blue Moon

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AGS is long gone, my friend! I didn't put it back on when I installed the CPE IC.
I still have AGS. I bet that's why they couldn't get the bumper to fit. Is there anything difficult about removing AGS? Will that trigger the engine light?
 
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I still have AGS. I bet that's why they couldn't get the bumper to fit. Is there anything difficult about removing AGS? Will that trigger the engine light?
Actually, the bar's thinner so you'll have more space. However, I'm not sure if AGS attaches to the stock bumper in any way. Getting rid of AGS may trigger CEL but tuner can turn it off. Others just attached the motor to it to keep the CEL at bay.
 
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G-LOC R10 front pads, R8 rear pads (pads pre-bedded), and titanium front brake pad shims finally arrived today and they are definitely worth the wait! Installed them today, taking extra time to take off all rotors and sanding them with a 120 grit sandpaper.

Front/rear pads and a shim:
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Front pads and shims as installed:
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Rear pads as installed:
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Noticed that OEM rear pads are designed in such a way where they won't make a full contact with rotors until they're worn down:
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It was nighttime by end of the installation, so I only had time for a quick test drive. They felt like OEM pads when cold but it only took a few stops in the neighbourhood streets to warm them up. I felt their bite getting stronger as they got warmer. I then took the car to a major street to do some stops from 50 MPH and noticed that they required less padel effort than OEM pads to stop.

My impression so far is that the pad upgrade was more noticeable than going from 4 piston to 6 piston calipers with larger rotors. Had I known about EradiSpeed rotors fixing the cooling issue with the 4 piston setup earlier, I would've tried these pads first and probably been fine at the track, at least at my level.

Best part is that braking performance should get even better once pads lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to rotors, so I'll post more updates down the road. Pads squeal a little bit but are no louder than the OEM pads that came with the GTPP calipers.
 
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CB762 finally arrived last Friday and was promptly installed. I'd say the installation was easier than CB005. I did one corner at a time and didn't have to worry about the alignment since I didn't have to drop or shift cradle at all.

The rear felt firmer and provided better road feel while driving on the city streets and highways. The car now feels even more solid going over the bridge expansion joints even at high-speed turns. The improvement is similar toCB005 but to a lesser degree. Overall, I think that CB762 is a good addition to CB005.

Front brace, side view:
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Front brace, bottom view. Works fine with the Steeda Ultra Lite jacking rails (the short version):
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Rear brace, side view:
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Rear brace, bottom view:
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The kit comes in at close to 13lbs. The impact should be minimal since it's sprung weight added in the rear and located low to the ground. I think the small weight gain is well worth the improvement, similar to the front braces.
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