The easy way to add bass.

[activeGT]

Thanks very much, @UserName Odd how the drivers are not all the same ohm rating. I would guess that's to be able to pull more watts out of the stock amp. If you wouldn't mind, could you take a couple of pics of the stock door woofer? I'm curious to see if it's a crappy paper-cone OEM driver with a tiny magnet or if it's actually decent-looking. I'm wondering if there's anything to be gained from replacing the stock door woof with an aftermarket woof, but not adding another amp.

I tried this and did not work at all. Ya gotta add the little amp. It really made the car sound correct.

I forgot I took this picture. Doors and rear deck factory speakers.

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[UserName]

Sorry for the late reply. Work had me out of town. I was mistaken on the ohms of the little guys, but the ohm load still applies at 4 ohms at the factory amp.

 

[UserName]

I tried this and did not work at all. Ya gotta add the little amp. It really made the car sound correct.

I forgot I took this picture. Doors and rear deck factory speakers.

Not to be a contrarian, but if you have a dsp, it sounds like they (the musicians) are standing on your hood performing just for you. A basic amp won’t achieve that. If you just want more loud, amps all the way. If you want an experience, get a dsp. It’s hard to describe exactly.

 

[mikes2017gt]

Thanks, activeGT and UserName. Appreciate the pics and inputs. The stock speakers are much nicer than I thought they would be. And certainly worlds ahead of what came stock in cars just 10 years ago.

 

[activeGT]

Not to be a contrarian, but if you have a dsp, it sounds like they (the musicians) are standing on your hood performing just for you. A basic amp won’t achieve that. If you just want more loud, amps all the way. If you want an experience, get a dsp. It’s hard to describe exactly.

Here's a portable unit I have in the trunk. I can reinstall in whatever car I own easily. I just didn't feel like getting into the amp under the dash on this car. In my Camaros all the wiring and amp were in the spare tire well. Piece of cake.

 

[mikes2017gt]

Very nice, @activeGT ! I can appreciate the work that went into that setup. Just the wiring alone to interface to the OEM system...yikes!

 

[UserName]

I was lazy and had a shop do the dirty work for me. I was sitting on the equipment for almost a year and never had the time to tear into it. I like the setup @activeGT nice and clean. I wanted to have all the amps in the spare tire well, but unfortunately since I chose to use surfboard sized A/B amps it wasn’t possible. The amps in the well are secured to a panel that is secured to the car with the spare tire bolt. The only hole drilled into the car was for the ground.

 

[mikes2017gt]

@UserName : DAYUM! That's mighty purty. I looked at the size of the amps and said "Amps haven't been THAT big since the early 90's...." Then I read they are Class A/B. I assume the sub/subs are on the other side of the vertical panel behind the rear seat? That's great wiring work, BTW. Nice and clean.

 

[UserName]

@mikes2017gt thank you. Yes the subs are forward facing into the cab. They are shallow subs and the box is not very deep. I highly recommend them as they sound amazing. Stereo Integrity BM MKV if anyone is interested.

 

[ahl395]

Very cool install, I like the idea.

Since the full range speakers are small how is the midrange losing the big woofer? I can imagine a small sub like that can pick up some of it though.

 

[UserName]

Very cool install, I like the idea.

Since the full range speakers are small how is the midrange losing the big woofer? I can imagine a small sub like that can pick up some of it though.

They do play up to 500hz so I wouldn’t think it’s an issue if the crossovers are set correctly.

 

[UserName]

I really like the idea of the pocket sized amps that are out now and think if I ever do another system it will be all tiny class d amps. They have gotten so much better and many folks swear by them now. The biggest appeal is the ability to absolutely hide them nearly anywhere and have a fully stealth install.

Thank you @activeGT for sharing.

 

[mikes2017gt]

Yup, Class D is really the easy way to go these days. Here's my little JL XD600.1 that powers the 12W3-equipped Stealthbox. 600w RMS @ 2 ohms from something the size of a paperback book. Unheard of back in the day when I had a "serious" install...like 20 years ago.

It's not a ported 2x12 box driven by 1Kw+, but it adds a nice thump, and I still have a trunk. BTW: I left all the wires long intentionally in case I ever lose my mind again and install a complete system. It could happen...

View attachment 307322

I grab the signal via LOC at the right rear speaker, where the wiring harness is. 20 years ago a LOC was $100 and didn't perform half as well as this $15 box.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Here's a portable unit I have in the trunk. I can reinstall in whatever car I own easily. I just didn't feel like getting into the amp under the dash on this car. In my Camaros all the wiring and amp were in the spare tire well. Piece of cake.

Interesting.

So can you explain how that is portable from the aspect of just being able to drop it in a trunk and with hooking it up to any other car?

Are you using some type of line out converter and what about power?

 

[300mag]

what a great idea, I was wanting to put in a alpine 445u as I have done I other cars for a little extra power but was still trying to figure an easy way without doing a whole rewire. @activeGT did you just use switched 12v and no remote turn on?

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