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Brake caliper Paint

Niz55

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I still have nightmares about the painting process on mine .
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Niz55

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Try pro-15 brand on Amazon. Is more durable than the g2.
 

HoosierDaddy

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I still have nightmares about the painting process on mine .
I still have nightmares from reading about it. Made me wonder if it was Karma from being Hitler in a previous life. Really sorry you went thru that.

Try pro-15 brand on Amazon. Is more durable than the g2.
Unfortunately it seems G2 is the ONLY caliper paint maker that will match any factory paint color. I want my calipers to match the Ford Velocity Blue I painted mirrors, strut brace, spoiler and over the top stripes with.
 
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NAG_GT350

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Paint is VTH
SP-100 – primer
SP-731 – Red Caliper Paint
SP-730 – Clear Coat

Custom decals – eBay - agnes.ns85

upload_2018-9-13_9-13-17.jpeg
The paint is here...I'm waiting for the decals. Hopefully they get here this week, so I can do the job on the weekend.
FYI the paint cap look dark red it look different than the caliper color in ur picture. And Should I use sandpaper on the caliper?
20180919_073405.jpg
 

Niz55

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Regular gt350 calipers are anodized and most certainly you should sand it down before painting process. Or better yet, if you are taking it off have a shop sand blast it before painting.
 

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Niz55

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Also very important step with the vht paint is to cure it at 200f for 1 hr .
 

GT_Dave

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Just an FYI . . . . I painted my calipers 2.5 years ago with VHT paint while on the car. Used a heat gun to cure the paint for about 20 minutes each caliper. This past Sunday I removed the wheels and cleaned my wheels and calipers and they still clean up nice and look great.
 

blk2017

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The paint is here...I'm waiting for the decals. Hopefully they get here this week, so I can do the job on the weekend.
FYI the paint cap look dark red it look different than the caliper color in ur picture. And Should I use sandpaper on the caliper?
20180919_073405.jpg
Have them sandblasted like Niz55 suggested.

Take the time to take the calipers apart (remove bleeder vales and connecting tube). I made covers for the pistons from 3 layers of duct tape. Had a small glass that had the perfect diameter. Clean the calipers with brake fluid and rubbing alcohol. Tape covers will stick to the rubber piston seals and protect them.

Get 16 - 10mm x 1.5 bolts – longer ones to screw into the holes for the bleeder screws and the connecting tubes. I used wire wrapped around the heads as a hanger. Use strong wire wrapped multiple times to make it strong. You don’t want the calipers falling while you are painting them. If you put a hanger on both ends, you can flip them so painting is easier.

I had mine sandblasted to remove the anodizing. $30 and he used a super fine silica sand. Sand blasting will not affect the rubber piston seals but will affect the pistons so cover them.

I used a dremel and removed a lot of the aluminum casting seams. Used 120 grit sandpaper to smooth everything out. Looked real good when I was done.

Clean really good with rubbing alcohol. I left the duct tape covers on the pistons/seals.

I got 2 cans of each primer, paint, and clear coat.

2-3 light coats of primer. Let each coat dry 1-2 hours.
2-3 light coats of paint
1 coat of clear coat and then bake them.

Baking: (corrected, I had the VHT Flame Proof instructions there previously)
200F for 20 min

The apply the decals
2-3 coats of clear coat
Seal with ceramic sealer

Decals are special order from ebay seller agnes.ns85. Write her and ask her for the custom ones she made for me for the 2016-2018 Shelby GT350. These are larger then normal and italic, just like the ones from the Shelby Super Snake

I have 5000 miles on them and 5 track days (I am hard on brakes) and they still look like the day I installed them

Picture after decals were applied and I was doing the clear coat over everything and then ceramic. I clear coated over the decals multiple times.

upload_2018-9-21_16-57-20.png


With everything put back together again. Also touched up the black on the connecting tube and the rubber insulator on the tube. Gotten a LOT of compliments on these.

upload_2018-9-21_17-0-58.png



If you are going to do it, do it right…

Enjoy!
 
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blk2017

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Forgot something...
Clean the inside of the caliper too. Ask me how I know. Use brake cleaner and really flush them good. Easy to do with the bleeder valves out and the connecting tube off. If you don't and one drop of brake fluid gets out and onto the primer or paint, you can start over. I just put the screws in hand tight, its aluminum. If there is brake fluid in there, it will work its way out. Once the paint is cured, brake fluid has no affect on the paint.

Also be careful not the cross thread the tube or the breeder valves when you put everything back together. Use your fingers with very little force. You'll get it eventually. If its right,, it will go very easy, it not, you'll cross thread the holes...
 

honeybadger

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One final thing,
I have seen, heard, and read a lot of different advice on the baking. Take it right from the horses mouth, VHT. Here is a link to their automotive paint catalog
https://www.carid.com/images/vht/automotive-paint/pdf/vht-automotive-product-catalog.pdf
It's in their under caliper paint, what I quoted above...
Interesting - looks like you can also just get the brakes nice and hot. If you don't have an oven to use, looks like you can just put them back on and go do a track day :)
 

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HoosierDaddy

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G2 can now ship Velocity Blue. I have some on the way.
 
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NAG_GT350

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How do I plug the brake line to prevent them from losing all the fluid??
The decals are here and I got a place to sand blast them.
 

honeybadger

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Niz55

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@blk2017
Did you apply the clear coat after the 200f cure process?

Also,

Did you tape the Pistons and the where the calipers slid on before painting them?
 
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Niz55

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I finally gave up on the dealer that I ordered the R calipers 3 times and everytime they came in damaged.

So I went ahead and got mine sand blasted and will start the paint process this weekend.
IMG_20180924_143243_1.jpg
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