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First Oil Change?

HoosierDaddy

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It wouldn't surprise me if someone suggests changing your oil now, again when you arrive at your destination, then once more when you return.






....then park it in your garage now in preparation for winter 6-months away.
For mid-trip changes, I ordered air suspension with enough travel that I can slide under it on a creeper tethered to the front sway bar while coasting downhill. Important to have a long enough hill to finish the oil change before you get to the bottom.
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Grimace427

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For mid-trip changes, I ordered air suspension with enough travel that I can slide under it on a creeper tethered to the front sway bar while coasting downhill. Important to have a long enough hill to finish the oil change before you get to the bottom.

That's way too much work. Just leave the drain plug off and run a hose between the filler and the cabin so you can constantly fill 'er up with oil while driving. Done and Done.
 

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Did mine at 500, and will do every 5,000 thereafter. Motorcraft filters, Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30.
 

CrashOverride

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2 camps on this one. The "Break in oil" camp and the "get out the metal shavings" camp. I fit the second camp. I didn't buy my mustang new, but I did buy my last dodge new. I changed the oil at 500 miles, then 2500 miles, then 5000 miles thereafter. I don't go by OLMs, they can't possibly be testing the oil, as you can't fit a gas chromatograph in the engine compartment. If you let the car sit a lot, the oil gets water from condensation and turns acidic. That's why they say every 6 months no matter what. If you have a dirty air filter, drive through the desert, or drive through forest fires like we do here, then more of that "fine filth" is going to get into your oil. If you're running a K&N or some other "performance" filter, more will get through because they have less pleats and allow larger particles to pass through them.

If you really want to know, get the oil blackstone tested. Of course you won't know the results until after you drained it...But, it will tell you if you needed to change it :)

If I'm throwing away money, so be it, I don't mind. It's a piece of mind thing for me. I do 90% city driving, so I'm very hard on my oil.

Oh, and some believe that DI engines tend to dilute the oil with fuel more than PFI engines, so take it as you may...
 

Excel

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first change at 1000 miles to full synth motorcraft
now I just change it twice a year
 

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JimsFury

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Im going to change mine at 1,000 miles using the Ford Filter and Mobil 1. Cant go wrong with that setup.
 

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Amazon $24 bucks per 5 quarts plus $10 rebate per jug. Not bad for full synthetic. I just hit 3000 on original fill. Probably do first change @ 4500 miles.
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Zinc03svt

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Just did my first oil change @ 3100 miles. Oil was amber color coming out. But interestingly enough, the factory fomoco filter was 1.5 inches shorter than recommended FL500s. Smaller oem filter?? Penn Plat 5w20 is good stuff. :).
 

Bit_the_Bullitt

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I have an oil analysis from every oil change on my '15 GT listed on my car's journal thread. It details what the engine metal concentrations are after every change, starting from 7500 (first one) to 47,500 (most recent one). This is for a daily driver with a 45/55 around town/highway split of driving.

Let me know if you have questions.
I see a fellow Ohioan with a Bullitt! Got my 2019 two months ago in KY and brought to Dayton area. When did you do your first oil change on the Bullitt?
 

Tony Alonso

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I see a fellow Ohioan with a Bullitt! Got my 2019 two months ago in KY and brought to Dayton area. When did you do your first oil change on the Bullitt?
Hello! At around 5000 miles and then around 10,000 miles for the next one.
 

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Hey gang, didn't want to start a new thread on this common subject, but couldn't find anything except this thread, so will revive it :D. I'm going to change the oil on my new Bullitt at 1K miles (2xx now), mostly to install a Ronin valve with a magnetic tip. But also to put Mobil1 0/30, which lubricates quicker when engine is cold. I live in hot TX, and prefer 30 weight, since that's what is recommended in other markets. Only in the US the EPA apparently forced Ford to spec 5/20. But enough of that.

I also need to find a way to do that. Did you guys use Rhino ramps? Where can you jack up the car safely, preferably centrally? And where is the drain plug in relation to the oil pan? I hope it's facing to the rear of the pan, so putting the car on ramps (or jack stands), will yield the desired inclination. And can you reach the filter with a plier-type wrench? That's what I have. I'd have to find a socket if needed, but could never find one for my ex 2018 F-150. Any other tips would be welcome. Thank you.
 

Joe 5.0

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Hey gang, didn't want to start a new thread on this common subject, but couldn't find anything except this thread, so will revive it :D. I'm going to change the oil on my new Bullitt at 1K miles (2xx now), mostly to install a Ronin valve with a magnetic tip. But also to put Mobil1 0/30, which lubricates quicker when engine is cold. I live in hot TX, and prefer 30 weight, since that's what is recommended in other markets. Only in the US the EPA apparently forced Ford to spec 5/20. But enough of that.

I also need to find a way to do that. Did you guys use Rhino ramps? Where can you jack up the car safely, preferably centrally? And where is the drain plug in relation to the oil pan? I hope it's facing to the rear of the pan, so putting the car on ramps (or jack stands), will yield the desired inclination. And can you reach the filter with a plier-type wrench? That's what I have. I'd have to find a socket if needed, but could never find one for my ex 2018 F-150. Any other tips would be welcome. Thank you.
Congrats on your new Mustang!

I have a 15-17 GT.

1. In my experience, I just jack the car anywhere along the pinch welds, and place the jack stands towards the front end of those welds. I do have low profile jacking rails which help, but aren't necessary.

2. The drain plug is in the back of the pan, closest to the rear end of the vehicle.

3. I generally use my hulk strength to twist-off the oil filter with my hands. Not sure if you can squeeze a plier-type wrench in there because I've never tried. I use the oil fitler removal tool in the link below on my other cars (Honda, Nissan, Mazda) which is really helpful. I don't remember if I've ever used it on the Mustang.

https://www.amazon.com/Innovant-Coax-crimper/dp/B017THUBFK/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1VKNCTABRB2NP&dchild=1&keywords=oil+filter+wrench&qid=1589821888&sprefix=oil+filter,aps,175&sr=8-7
 

CrashOverride

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Hey gang, didn't want to start a new thread on this common subject, but couldn't find anything except this thread, so will revive it :D. I'm going to change the oil on my new Bullitt at 1K miles (2xx now), mostly to install a Ronin valve with a magnetic tip. But also to put Mobil1 0/30, which lubricates quicker when engine is cold. I live in hot TX, and prefer 30 weight, since that's what is recommended in other markets. Only in the US the EPA apparently forced Ford to spec 5/20. But enough of that.

I also need to find a way to do that. Did you guys use Rhino ramps? Where can you jack up the car safely, preferably centrally? And where is the drain plug in relation to the oil pan? I hope it's facing to the rear of the pan, so putting the car on ramps (or jack stands), will yield the desired inclination. And can you reach the filter with a plier-type wrench? That's what I have. I'd have to find a socket if needed, but could never find one for my ex 2018 F-150. Any other tips would be welcome. Thank you.
I have the PP, so I think there is more difficulty trying to drive it up ramps. To be honest, I don't think I tried, I just used the pinch welds and an aluminum jack pad. Worked fairly good, but it is a bit more difficult to find a second good place for the jackstand. I bought a quickjack around a year ago, and that works great. Best part is the jacks are as level as the ground you're working on, so you can get a good dipstick reading when it's still in the air. With the quickjack, I built some 3.5" x 7" jack pads made out of wood. The quickjack comes with rubber pads, but they were too squishy with the pinch welds for my taste. As long as the wood grain is perpendicular to the pinch welds, they work really well. I actually built several different sets for vehicles of different heights.
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