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BMR REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM BEARING KIT

drumstick

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Part #BK081

Is this ok to install with no other suspension parts aside from BMR lock out kit? Also, is a alignment needed after this?
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TheLion

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You could get away with out an alignment as long as you don't drop the IRS or undo the inner upper camber link bolt (it's mounted to a slotted hole for adjustment). However I would HIGHLY suggest you try Ford Performance Outer Toe Link Spherical Bearings (if you have a PP car you only need to upgrade the spherical bearings in the knuckle) first. It's much easier to do and cheaper as well. Then work out from there if the IRS is still not meeting your expectations / preferences.

If you do decide to do the RLCA bushings, you will need to re-clock all the suspension bushings loaded at ride height or you'll have some funky handling as all the rubber bushings will be pre-loaded and cause some squirrely handling. So replacing the RLCA bushings is a substantial time investment. You'll also need either a heavy duty ball joint press or a 20-ton arbor press (remove the entire lower control arm) to press out the bushing.

CB05 cradle lockout (I'm assuming you already have it) and spherical toe link bearings in both toe link ends are the first suspension mod anyone should do hands down, then springs and struts and sway-bars if needed. The first modifications really tighten up the rear end without making it overly edgy or harsh. For $55 you can't go wrong!

Are you running a Performance Packaged equipped GT or Base model or Premium? If your running a Base or Premium and NOT the Performance Package you'll also need: https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-racing-performance-pack-rear-toe-link-kit-2015-2018/p/M5972M/ to go along with: https://fordracingpartsbydonwood.co...MI-tzY5uL73AIVlLjACh2lCQEjEAYYBCABEgIGLvD_BwE

A ball joint press like this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Astro-P...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CNjk4J7k-9wCFcFDNwodYY8AwA

and a socket (the tubes aren't the right sizes to press out the stock bushings). I forget the size of the socket you need to buy, but the Ford Performance shop manual for the Toe Link Bearings says what size is needed.
 

BMR Tech

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Part #BK081

Is this ok to install with no other suspension parts aside from BMR lock out kit? Also, is a alignment needed after this?
CB005 and BK081 pair very well together, and these are typically the first two parts I suggest to my customers for better IRS performance and control. :)
 

MrWolf

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You could get away with out an alignment as long as you don't drop the IRS or undo the inner upper camber link bolt (it's mounted to a slotted hole for adjustment). However I would HIGHLY suggest you try Ford Performance Outer Toe Link Spherical Bearings (if you have a PP car you only need to upgrade the spherical bearings in the knuckle) first. It's much easier to do and cheaper as well. Then work out from there if the IRS is still not meeting your expectations / preferences.

If you do decide to do the RLCA bushings, you will need to re-clock all the suspension bushings loaded at ride height or you'll have some funky handling as all the rubber bushings will be pre-loaded and cause some squirrely handling. So replacing the RLCA bushings is a substantial time investment. You'll also need either a heavy duty ball joint press or a 20-ton arbor press (remove the entire lower control arm) to press out the bushing.

CB05 cradle lockout (I'm assuming you already have it) and spherical toe link bearings in both toe link ends are the first suspension mod anyone should do hands down, then springs and struts and sway-bars if needed. The first modifications really tighten up the rear end without making it overly edgy or harsh. For $55 you can't go wrong!

Are you running a Performance Packaged equipped GT or Base model or Premium? If your running a Base or Premium and NOT the Performance Package you'll also need: https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-racing-performance-pack-rear-toe-link-kit-2015-2018/p/M5972M/ to go along with: https://fordracingpartsbydonwood.co...MI-tzY5uL73AIVlLjACh2lCQEjEAYYBCABEgIGLvD_BwE

A ball joint press like this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Astro-Pneumatic-Ball-Joint-and-4-Wheel-Drive-Service-Tool-Kit-AST7865/206859149?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|HC|D25T|25-31_GARAGE/AUTOMOTIVE|NA|NA|71700000037147756|58700004141485310|92700035285887579&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsbfhm-T73AIVmIKzCh0i3Q_SEAQYAiABEgIBJvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CNjk4J7k-9wCFcFDNwodYY8AwA

and a socket (the tubes aren't the right sizes to press out the stock bushings). I forget the size of the socket you need to buy, but the Ford Performance shop manual for the Toe Link Bearings says what size is needed.
So just to confirm, if we have PP, we don’t need the following:-
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-5A460-M
 

BmacIL

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So just to confirm, if we have PP, we don’t need the following:-
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-5A460-M
There is no S550 Mustang that comes with that in the outer point (in the knuckle). All GTs, EB PP and GT350/R have the bearing on the inner point in the toe link itself. That is what as known as the PP Toe Link. The bearing in the toe link is a direct fit into the knuckle, which is also the same as what you posted above.
 

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MrWolf

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There is no S550 Mustang that comes with that in the outer point (in the knuckle). All GTs, EB PP and GT350/R have the bearing on the inner point in the toe link itself. That is what as known as the PP Toe Link. The bearing in the toe link is a direct fit into the knuckle, which is also the same as what you posted above.
Sorry to be a pain, you couldn’t point me to a diagram showing the location of where we should get this fitted?
 

BmacIL

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Sorry to be a pain, you couldn’t point me to a diagram showing the location of where we should get this fitted?
Right below the black arrow where the toe link (black, lowest link in view) connects to the large cast aluminum knuckle (what the arrow is pointing at).
2015_ford_mustang-gt_det_lt_527154_717.jpg
 

MrWolf

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Right below the black arrow where the toe link (black, lowest link in view) connects to the large cast aluminum knuckle (what the arrow is pointing at).
2015_ford_mustang-gt_det_lt_527154_717.jpg
Thanks. Had a blonde moment there for a second. Of course it is
 

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Right below the black arrow where the toe link (black, lowest link in view) connects to the large cast aluminum knuckle (what the arrow is pointing at).
2015_ford_mustang-gt_det_lt_527154_717.jpg
I have a base model 17 gt went with the Ford performance link and then will change the bearing in the knuckle.
 

BmacIL

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I have a base model 17 gt went with the Ford performance link and then will change the bearing in the knuckle.
Your stock links have the bearings already. You can order the bearings by themselves for the knuckle to save some money.
 

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Racerx009

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Your stock links have the bearings already. You can order the bearings by themselves for the knuckle to save some money.
Did you replace your toe link bearing to the Ford performance one ?? I read some have done it with no issues really getting them pressed out and in while on the car.. Another video shows a guy struggling to get it out. I am a certified mechanic but not looking for anything crazy to do on the floor. I am upgrading the whole front suspension with steeda products and new shocks and struts So I figure this might be really important to replace along with the steeda vertical links. My car has eibach sport line springs and sits pretty low.. Plus everyone is saying it is a must do. What are your thoughts if you don't mind
 

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Did you replace your toe link bearing to the Ford performance one ?? I read some have done it with no issues really getting them pressed out and in while on the car.. Another video shows a guy struggling to get it out. I am a certified mechanic but not looking for anything crazy to do on the floor. I am upgrading the whole front suspension with steeda products and new shocks and struts So I figure this might be really important to replace along with the steeda vertical links. My car has eibach sport line springs and sits pretty low.. Plus everyone is saying it is a must do. What are your thoughts if you don't mind
I did RLCA bearings and Knuckle to Toe Link bearings. Took the RLCA and the knuckle to a machine shop and they charged $30 a bearing. Worth the investment rather than ruining something with a junky rental ball joint press
 

Racerx009

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I did RLCA bearings and Knuckle to Toe Link bearings. Took the RLCA and the knuckle to a machine shop and they charged $30 a bearing. Worth the investment rather than ruining something with a junky rental ball joint press
Honestly I don't want to go through all the trouble of taking off. I have done stuff like this before and have burned the center of the rubber out cut into outer sleeve and peeled it up to get tension off the sleeve.
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