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Anyone tried a Free Air Subwoofer in their GT?

DAZZA

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That Audison amp is pretty sweet! Should work out great! I'm looking at going with a Focal FPX 4.400SQ amp, which is also 70W RMS per channel @4 Ohm.

Trying to decide between the Focal Flax 6.5" components for the front OR Hertz Mille PRO 6.5" components. Both look like awesome 3-Way speakers. Hertz are slightly more expensive.
I don't know much about the focal, but I purchased a set of Hertz from frankies in Albion park, NSW got a really good price. Focals you can purchase from SSV in Melbourne they look good. I sold the Hertz, not because they were bad but I was after simplicity and coaxial. I may consider trying the flax focal coaxial instead of my pioneers.

I have experimented with many options best sounding woofers I have used in the doors was a set of FUSION PP-CM650 the tweeters were horrible but the woofers were amazing better than the hertz. I ended up installing a hertz 3.5inch coaxial for the mids and highs to go with the set of fusions and this combination sounded excellent.
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I don't know much about the focal, but I purchased a set of Hertz from frankies in Albion park, NSW got a really good price. Focals you can purchase from SSV in Melbourne they look good. I sold the Hertz, not because they were bad but I was after simplicity and coaxial. I may consider trying the flax focal coaxial instead of my pioneers.

I have experimented with many options best sounding woofers I have used in the doors was a set of FUSION PP-CM650 the tweeters were horrible but the woofers were amazing better than the hertz. I ended up installing a hertz 3.5inch coaxial for the mids and highs to go with the set of fusions and this combination sounded excellent.
Nice one! How did you find the clarity of the Hertz speakers?

I just had some Focal 165AS Access 6.5" 2-way component speakers installed in my daughter's Honda Accord Euro, and they sound very crisp and clean compared to the OEM speakers (only $246 too)! :)

Anyway, since I'm just going to replace the rear Shaker coaxials with Kicker 8" subbies, I think I'm going to replace the entire front stage with some quality 3-way components. Looking at spending up around $1K for the front stage.

Hey do you know what wattage the factory amp is in the GT? I read somewhere it's around 50W RMS per channel? Is that right?
 

DAZZA

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Nice one! How did you find the clarity of the Hertz speakers?

I just had some Focal 165AS Access 6.5" 2-way component speakers installed in my daughter's Honda Accord Euro, and they sound very crisp and clean compared to the OEM speakers (only $246 too)! :)

Anyway, since I'm just going to replace the rear Shaker coaxials with Kicker 8" subbies, I think I'm going to replace the entire front stage with some quality 3-way components. Looking at spending up around $1K for the front stage.

Hey do you know what wattage the factory amp is in the GT? I read somewhere it's around 50W RMS per channel? Is that right?
Hertz were very nice but I must say the focus needs to be on the install, sound deadening and time alignment all this is more important than the speaker choice IMO. It becomes laws of diminishing returns and in the end the other components int he system need to be upgrade along with the speakers. I am running a set of Pioneer coaxials and they sound better than anything else I have tried, so far. No crossovers, no issue with timing as its coming from single source. They handle plenty power and sound so open and clear. They are not cheap but the installation is very simple.

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/Z-Series/TS-Z65F
 
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Hertz were very nice but I must say the focus needs to be on the install, sound deadening and time alignment all this is more important than the speaker choice IMO. It becomes laws of diminishing returns and in the end the other components int he system need to be upgrade along with the speakers. I am running a set of Pioneer coaxials and they sound better than anything else I have tried, so far. No crossovers, no issue with timing as its coming from single source. They handle plenty power and sound so open and clear. They are not cheap but the installation is very simple.

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/Z-Series/TS-Z65F
Nice! Anything aftermarket has GOT to be better than those mediocre OEM speakers to be honest, and yes, quality of install is paramount. No point spending heaps on speakers when the install is of sub-standard quality.

Are you running those TS-Z65F's in the lower door?

I just realised the mounting height of the Focal speakers I was looking at might not fit in the rear deck anyway, so looks like dual Kicker 8" subbies underneath the parcel shelf is the best way to go anyway.
 
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DAZZA

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Nice! Anything aftermarket has GOT to be better than those mediocre OEM speakers to be honest, and yes, quality of install is paramount. No point spending heaps on speakers when the install is of sub-standard quality.

Are you running those TS-Z65F's in the lower door?
Yes, you are correct changing out the speakers, going for anything aftermarket will make an improvement. I also found that disconnecting the centre speaker made a difference for the better, this should be done immediately. My Pioneers are in the lower doors and I sealed up the mids and disconnected the tweeters in the A pillars. I would not do this if you keeping the factory Amp/DSP. The issue with the stock system is that the rear has some signal processing in it and there is no bass going to them and they sound worse than flat. So changing the rears is a waste of time. One would need to tap into the wiring loom and add an amplifier if you are going to spend money on rear speakers. In this case you are still somewhat wasting your time as you might as well simply go for Subs in the trunk but to get the correct signal for the subwoofer you cannot tap this off the rear speaker signal due to the processing (I am speaking purely the 9 speaker premium system). With the fronts I am not certain if there is a full range signal going to the doors, its split between bass to the doors and mid/high to the mids and tweeter. So one cannot simply put a coaxial speaker in the doors, you need to go three way.

I am not sure that changing the speakers is the answer one needs to go the whole hog (within reason) I decided in the end to keep everything simple.
This will probably be my latest move.

See diagram
Screenshot from 2018-08-11 15-23-56.png
 

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Yes, you are correct changing out the speakers, going for anything aftermarket will make an improvement. I also found that disconnecting the centre speaker made a difference for the better, this should be done immediately. My Pioneers are in the lower doors and I sealed up the mids and disconnected the tweeters in the A pillars. I would not do this if you keeping the factory Amp/DSP. The issue with the stock system is that the rear has some signal processing in it and there is no bass going to them and they sound worse than flat. So changing the rears is a waste of time. One would need to tap into the wiring loom and add an amplifier if you are going to spend money on rear speakers. In this case you are still somewhat wasting your time as you might as well simply go for Subs in the trunk but to get the correct signal for the subwoofer you cannot tap this off the rear speaker signal due to the processing (I am speaking purely the 9 speaker premium system). With the fronts I am not certain if there is a full range signal going to the doors, its split between bass to the doors and mid/high to the mids and tweeter. So one cannot simply put a coaxial speaker in the doors, you need to go three way.

I am not sure that changing the speakers is the answer one needs to go the whole hog (within reason) I decided in the end to keep everything simple.
This will probably be my latest move.

See diagram
Screenshot from 2018-08-11 15-23-56.png
Interesting setup. So, you're now going with 6.5" coaxials in the rear instead of the dual Kicker 8" subs?

I won't be retaining the factory amp/dsp. I'll be feeding the signals from the head-unit directly into the new Focal 4-channel amplifier :)
 

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Interesting setup. So, you're now going with 6.5" coaxials in the rear instead of the dual Kicker 8" subs?

I won't be retaining the factory amp/dsp. I'll be feeding the signals from the head-unit directly into the new Focal 4-channel amplifier :)
Hi Sorry I confused you, no the rear speakers are the two Kicker subwoofers and the fronts are the pioneer coxials. If you are changing the amp/DSP and therefore tapping into the low level signal you will need to factor in signal processing from the headunit. I used a JLfix-82 to recalibrate/equalize the signal as I am too dumb to try recode the ACM using forscan (I would not have a clue)
 
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Hi Sorry I confused you, no the rear speakers are the two Kicker subwoofers and the fronts are the pioneer coxials. If you are changing the amp/DSP and therefore tapping into the low level signal you will need to factor in signal processing from the headunit. I used a JLfix-82 to recalibrate/equalize the signal as I am too dumb to try recode the ACM using forscan (I would not have a clue)
Oh OK... just a typo in the diagram then :)

Yeah, I read that if I want to bypass the factory amp/dsp, I'll need to install a dedicated DSP along with the new Amp. Extra cost! :(
 

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Oh OK... just a typo in the diagram then :)

Yeah, I read that if I want to bypass the factory amp/dsp, I'll need to install a dedicated DSP along with the new Amp. Extra cost! :(
You have options.premium system
1. No DSP take the line out (front) direct to amp it will work but the signal isn't flat so it has some processing in it. I used a JLfix82 easy to install but still and added cost. It did however make a good amount of difference.

2. Reprogram the ACM... I did not know how to do this but if you can get someone to do it for you you can simply connect a amp.

3. Use a all on one dsp/amplifier so its easy to install but there are not many options i picked the audison 4.9bit but I have not physically tried it.
 

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Great thread...I'd been considering a free air/IB setup since I got my GT prem this spring. I plan to run a pair of 4ohm SVC Kicker Comp C's in parallel on an AudioControl ACM 1.300 all mounted under the package tray. All the parts arrived last week and I plan on getting started this weekend. Need to make some mounting rings and fully wire everything.

I'm also going to mess with the ACM EQ on/off with forscan since for now I plan to drive the fronts (scanspeaks) off the factory amp. If I do decide to keep the EQ in the ACM enabled, the accubass feature in the AC amp should help combat factory rolloff (going to tap the rears at the package tray off the factory connectors).

I'll share some results once I get it playing
 

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Great thread...I'd been considering a free air/IB setup since I got my GT prem this spring. I plan to run a pair of 4ohm SVC Kicker Comp C's in parallel on an AudioControl ACM 1.300 all mounted under the package tray. All the parts arrived last week and I plan on getting started this weekend. Need to make some mounting rings and fully wire everything.

I'm also going to mess with the ACM EQ on/off with forscan since for now I plan to drive the fronts (scanspeaks) off the factory amp. If I do decide to keep the EQ in the ACM enabled, the accubass feature in the AC amp should help combat factory rolloff (going to tap the rears at the package tray off the factory connectors).

I'll share some results once I get it playing
Sounds great..If you tap off the rears just be aware that I believe they don't have a full signal and the bass frequencies are cut as well (this is what I have read) so equalising the signals could potentially be a problem as well. If you are reprogramming the ACM then you will be ok. I wish I knew how to do this as it is the cheapest and most effective way to sort out the issues and move to aftermarket multi channel amplifiers. I think I am going to invest the time and work out how to do it.
 

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DAZZA

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Good threads here, start with this one:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/modifying-as-built-data-guide.61773/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/forscan-codes-s550-mustangs.98260/

I purchased the OBDLink MX Bluetooth adapter and will be requesting an extended license for FORScan to enable writes. I'm going to try this before adding the subs just to hear how it sounds with the EQ off.
Thats a good idea, thanks for the links. I have read up a little about it, but it confused me. If you can turn Eq off it will be very good for your setup. I really need to try this
 
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Thats a good idea, thanks for the links. I have read up a little about it, but it confused me. If you can turn Eq off it will be very good for your setup. I really need to try this
Damn, this is all getting too complicated having to reprogram the ACM to take full advantage of an add-on Amp/DSP etc... I thought it'd be as easy as upgrading the front components, replacing the rear coaxials with 8" subbies and driving them all with a 4-channel amp. Now I have to get into re-coding etc.... SIGH!
 

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Damn, this is all getting too complicated having to reprogram the ACM to take full advantage of an add-on Amp/DSP etc... I thought it'd be as easy as upgrading the front components, replacing the rear coaxials with 8" subbies and driving them all with a 4-channel amp. Now I have to get into re-coding etc.... SIGH!
I was able to disable the EQ last weekend, it was really pretty easy. Registering the account on the FORScan forum took maybe 15-20 minutes for activation, the rest was just a few minutes for obtaining the extended license and pairing the obdlink. Once in FORScan it’s 3-4 clicks and a 1 digit change to disable the EQ.

Havent gotten to the sub install yet, hopefully it’ll go this weekend.
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