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How do you removing grill from bumper?

HoosierDaddy

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I couldn't find a thread in this forum on this topic. Found lots of videos on YouTube but every single one just goes into light speed while unlatching the tabs.

The grill doesn't bend and neither does the bumper cover with the grill attached. I can't figure out how to keep tabs from popping back.. The only way to remove the grill that I can imagine is to wedge something in every single one of the tabs as you free it up.

Is there another way? And if not, what did you use to keep the tabs from snapping back when you move from one to the next?

I'm sure if Mustangs are around long enough, we will evolve to have as many hands as there are grill tabs, but that's not much help for us primitive bi-handed humans.
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ahl395

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I usually go from one side to the other, pulling back and holding tension on the grille with one hand while popping clips with the other hand.

No matter how you do it though it sucks.
 
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HoosierDaddy

HoosierDaddy

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I removed the bumper for painting because the paint shop has probably never removed one from an S550 and with hidden bolts and stuff.... easier for me to study up on and do. Once off, I removed the lip and lights but the grill has me stopped. Since its just visible clips, will probably be easy for the paint shop so I'm going to let them remove the grills.

Since the upper is not going back in (I have a 50th anniversary to replace it), I would cut it out but don't even see an easy way to do that. Plus would still have the bottom to do. So let the paint shop remove both grills. Looks like about a 15 second job for me to reinstall after painting.

Now I have to brush up on my hand signals so I can drive it to the paint shop.

Had to use a small box to hold the hood up. Can't open fully high on jack-stands due to overhead storage.

WP_20180818_19_22_46.jpg


WP_20180818_20_09_13.jpg
 
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HoosierDaddy

HoosierDaddy

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Thanks. I put some tape strips from bumper to the hood and cut them at the gap since I wasn't sure if the paint shop had any other reference points to make sure the painted stripes are perfectly aligned between bumper and hood. Front bumper to hood is the only place two adjoining panel stripes meet. Hood has windshield behind it. Roof has glass on both ends. Trunk has glass in front and that black panel in the back. Rear bumper has the black panel in front of it.

Because of a few reports of early production X-Lume lighted ponies having the chrome peel off. I'm NOT going to unbox mine and put it in the new grill. I pre-ordered it and have one from the first production run. Probably little chance of a problem but don't feel like chancing it since I'm not that turned on by the whole idea so much anymore. Will sell it in the classifieds. I guess I should have taken the free upgrade to multi-color they offered for being so late in shipping but the white light from those isn't quite as pure/bright so I passed.
 
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HoosierDaddy

HoosierDaddy

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GM Luxor Blue. Darker than Lightning blue, lighter than DIB or Kona. Just barely metallic (I prefer non metallic but couldn't find one the right darkness among colors I can get OTC touch up for). In the right light has a very slight purple effect.

Edit: Actually ended up going with Velocity Blue after seeing it in person.
 
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HoosierDaddy

HoosierDaddy

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GM Luxor Blue. Darker than Lightning blue, lighter than DIB or Kona. Just barely metallic (I prefer non metallic but couldn't find one the right darkness among colors I can get OTC touch up for). In the right light has a very slight purple effect.
Quoting myself. I don't know why but I'm now remembering a blue I liked on Cadillacs which is also barely metallic and a bit lighter than Luxo. So am switching to what was called Opulent Blue on Cadillacs. GM color Code WA705U. Also called Xenon Blue and Admiral Blue. Of course I've got hours to change my mind again.
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