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Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

mumbles

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Okay. Just to be clear. my setup will be like the picture below. Are you saying to just add an extra small wire in the compression fittings of A and B for power and ground to the DSP? Because I won't have any "spare" outputs.

51ezXxvWCuL.jpg
I'm not familiar with those dist blocks, but I would thing you could also put a small ring terminal on your power/gnd wires and screw them under one of the allen heads... would be a little more secure that way.
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Mickeymeanie

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Sorely disappointed in the stock (non-shaker) sound system in my '18 GT Prem PP vert! Lacks depth and mid-range.

I'm looking at replacing the amp with JL Audio VX6006I http://www.jlaudio.com/vx600-6i-car-audio-vxi-amplifiers-98639 and the front 6.5, 3, and tweeter with FOCAL 165AS3.

Installer suggested that we disconnect the center speaker altogether. He also said he didn't think it would be worth messing with the rear speakers since they apparently are just being used for bass. Also commented that adding a subwoofer in a convertible would be a waste since the bass would be so centralized to the trunk... Good bass should not be obvious where it's coming from like in a home theater.

Thoughts/suggestions appreciated...
 

randy_tho

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I agree with the center channel and rears. I haven't done a lot of car audio but several years back I put in a separate component set in the 100+ watt range per channel and an amp and it was awesome. (Diamond Audio Hex) I can't speak about the convertible but I would imagine it'd affect harmonics quite a bit. I'm not a big fan of car subs though.

Sorely disappointed in the stock (non-shaker) sound system in my '18 GT Prem PP vert! Lacks depth and mid-range.

I'm looking at replacing the amp with JL Audio VX6006I http://www.jlaudio.com/vx600-6i-car-audio-vxi-amplifiers-98639 and the front 6.5, 3, and tweeter with FOCAL 165AS3.

Installer suggested that we disconnect the center speaker altogether. He also said he didn't think it would be worth messing with the rear speakers since they apparently are just being used for bass. Also commented that adding a subwoofer in a convertible would be a waste since the bass would be so centralized to the trunk... Good bass should not be obvious where it's coming from like in a home theater.

Thoughts/suggestions appreciated...
 

randy_tho

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Been searching through this thread but can't find what I am looking for. I've not yet dug into the kick panel but what is the physical wiring like on the base stereo fronts? (6 speaker) It sounds like tweeters are the same with the resistor attached directly to the tweeter. The split is supposed to be in the kickpanel area. So inserting an aftermarket crossover will involve cutting?

Options for crossover location would seem to be:
  1. Wire from factory 6.5 harness into x-over then new wire into 6.5 and then more new wire back through door into car up apillar. Crossover would be in the door. Looks like a tight fit for many and not a very clean install but doesn't involve cutting into factory wire.
  2. Cut apart factory wire in kick-panel and attach crossover. Replacing the tweeter would also pull the resister (factory high pass filter). Would be great if this split to the tweeter/6.5 was harnessed somehow.
 

NotMarc

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Sorely disappointed in the stock (non-shaker) sound system in my '18 GT Prem PP vert! Lacks depth and mid-range.

I'm looking at replacing the amp with JL Audio VX6006I http://www.jlaudio.com/vx600-6i-car-audio-vxi-amplifiers-98639 and the front 6.5, 3, and tweeter with FOCAL 165AS3.

Installer suggested that we disconnect the center speaker altogether. He also said he didn't think it would be worth messing with the rear speakers since they apparently are just being used for bass. Also commented that adding a subwoofer in a convertible would be a waste since the bass would be so centralized to the trunk... Good bass should not be obvious where it's coming from like in a home theater.

Thoughts/suggestions appreciated...

I also agree about the Center and rear speakers but I would definitely still have something to reproduce low frequencies. You could go IB (infinite baffle) in the rear shelf like I believe @ForTehNguyen did a few years back. But good bass is not easily "locateable." I don't believe that's how it works. A well tuned/placed subwoofer is just the opposite, where if you close your eyes you don't know where it's coming from. I would definitely not just rely on the 6.5 woofer in that component set to go down to 80hz and below with any kind of effectiveness/efficiency, but that's just my very humble opinion.
 

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Jungles82

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Does anyone know if you can get the 3.0 upgrade on a 4"-8" sync3 swap what vin would I use? Or is there a place I can get the update other than the ford owners website?
 

Mickeymeanie

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I also agree about the Center and rear speakers but I would definitely still have something to reproduce low frequencies. You could go IB (infinite baffle) in the rear shelf like I believe @ForTehNguyen did a few years back. But good bass is not easily "locateable." I don't believe that's how it works. A well tuned/placed subwoofer is just the opposite, where if you close your eyes you don't know where it's coming from. I would definitely not just rely on the 6.5 woofer in that component set to go down to 80hz and below with any kind of effectiveness/efficiency, but that's just my very humble opinion.
You described what I was trying to say about the bass... and totally agree about the low frequency's. I talked to the installer yesterday and we are adding 2 small subs where the two rear speakers are and a 2 channel amp that will integrate with the JL VX600 so the subs will be tuned with the DSP and fully integrated. They'll build somewhat of an enclosure for them, not sure what kind of space is available since it's a convertible and speakers are on the side. A few more $'s, but I think I'll be a lot happier with the results.

Your humble opinion is much appreciated!
 

NotMarc

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You described what I was trying to say about the bass... and totally agree about the low frequency's. I talked to the installer yesterday and we are adding 2 small subs where the two rear speakers are and a 2 channel amp that will integrate with the JL VX600 so the subs will be tuned with the DSP and fully integrated. They'll build somewhat of an enclosure for them, not sure what kind of space is available since it's a convertible and speakers are on the side. A few more $'s, but I think I'll be a lot happier with the results.

Your humble opinion is much appreciated!

Not a problem!
Custom enclosures can be expensive are you sure nothing premade will fit the convertible? I would assume the zenclosures wouldn't work but it could be worth a call to see if they have anything not on their site. Something like this from "audiodesginscg" could be an easy plug and play solution, but I've never seen a S550 convertible trunk to know what could work. Just a thought to save money on labor.

IMG_2653.jpg
 

Mickeymeanie

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Not a problem!
Custom enclosures can be expensive are you sure nothing premade will fit the convertible? I would assume the zenclosures wouldn't work but it could be worth a call to see if they have anything not on their site. Something like this from "audiodesginscg" could be an easy plug and play solution, but I've never seen a S550 convertible trunk to know what could work. Just a thought to save money on labor.

IMG_2653.jpg
The cost surprisingly isn't too bad. Thinking about what he described, I don't think it's going to be a full enclosure... I think it will be more something to make the mount more rigid to avoid/reduce rattling...

Plenty of room in the trunk for sure, but I would rather not give up the space when I can utilize the current location of the rear speakers on the sides. I would think this will work fine given that I'm not looking for a big thumping low end, just good low end frequency.

They guarantee satisfaction LOL, so if it doesn't sound right, they will make sure it does in the end... I've had work done before at this place that came out great, so I trust 'em to do it right.
 

Schlusel

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Is it possible to use the OEM DSP just as an ordinary amplifier?
I connected an Android Radio to it, unsing the Line Out RCA which I tested before.
The Audio Enable is also wired (5.5V) but ANC and such is not connected.
It looks like the DSP is not working if it's not connect to the OEM Radio.
 

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myMUSICveins

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Great info here. Recently purchased an 18 GT350 with the 9 speaker audio system (no stock sub).

Just purchased the JL stealth box for 15 and up mustangs, a JL jx250, and a JL Audio LoC-22.

I have to decide where I’m stealing the signal from for the JL Audio LoC-22. Does anyone know what frequencies are being sent pre and post amp to all the channels?

I’m only adding a sub to the stock 9 speaker setup so I don’t technically need full range but I’m hesitant grabbing signal post amp because I don’t know what equalization is being done by the factory amp to all the channels.

Do the rear speakers “act like subs” and if they do what’s the frequency range being sent to them pre and post amp?

I’m actually more concerned about roll off and frequencies below 50hz being cut out with a post amp signal.

I assumed grabbing a full range signal pre amp(at the drivers kick panel?) would be the best signal to steal from and let the JL jx250 amp do the job of cutting out the upper frequencies.

Comments/suggestions?
 
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trkpny

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The positive battery terminal on my 2017 GT350 doesn't have a side terminal post for installing an amplifier wire. The positive cable also isn't long enough to clip off the wire to use the JL Audio terminal I purchased and still be long enough to reach the battery post. How have others here been able to add an amplifier wire?
 

randy_tho

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I've read about some GT owners using the larger positives bolted in the box. Not sure of the gt350 is this way also. Definitely need to consider the draw introduced to the factory cable doing it this way though.

The positive battery terminal on my 2017 GT350 doesn't have a side terminal post for installing an amplifier wire. The positive cable also isn't long enough to clip off the wire to use the JL Audio terminal I purchased and still be long enough to reach the battery post. How have others here been able to add an amplifier wire?
 

trkpny

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The positive battery terminal on my 2017 GT350 doesn't have a side terminal post for installing an amplifier wire. The positive cable also isn't long enough to clip off the wire to use the JL Audio terminal I purchased and still be long enough to reach the battery post. How have others here been able to add an amplifier wire?
I found a slick solution to this problem. KnuKonceptz makes an Ultimate Positive Battery Terminal with a top post adaptor that lets you keep the factory wiring intact. I saw it on the Car Audio Fabrication video series. I found it here: http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/battery-terminals/sp/ultimate-positive-battery-terminal/ The lack of extra wire length isn't an issue now. There are probably other variations on this terminal as well. The GT350 battery box has enough space around the battery that the side mounting works fine.
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