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Step by Step Guide to Enabling Blind Spot Information System (BLIS) and Cross Traffic Alert (CTA)

Bull Run

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A special thanks to @Falk03 leading the way and answering my bzillion questions. His thread is at https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/trying-to-add-blis-and-adaptive-cc-blis-is-installed.97591/.

Note: I need to figure out a way to rotate the pictures...

Parts Required (part numbers are same for both sides except for OEM mirrors)


Blind Spot Radar, referred as Side Object Detection Left/Right (SODL/SODR) modules in this guide: EM2Z-14C689-A

Pigtail, a.k.a Side Object Sensor Connector: WPT1434

Blind Spot Radar Mount Bracket: FT4Z-14D189-A

Blind Spot Radar Bolt: W505563-S437

BLIS alert light options:

Set of OEM side mirrors with BLIS lights:

Mirror LH: FR3Z-17K707-G

Mirror RH: FR3Z-17K707-D

OR

Aftermarket mirrors such as Classic Designs Concepts 1511-7053-01C

OR

LED diode lights for interior mount (covered in this guide)

Below is the picture of the SOD module, bracket, and mounting screws. Used modules cost around $100 off of eBay, whereas new ones are usually around $500 online. New brackets can be had for around $17 new.

1.JPG

Hardware and wiring installation

1. Remove rear bumper cover.

2. Left and right mounting locations for SOD:
2.JPG
3.JPG

3. Install mounting brackets. Existing mounting hole covers didn’t have provisions to attach the brackets, so I flipped the covers around and used nuts and bolts to secure the brackets with added double sided tape on corners without holes.
4.JPG


4. Mount the radar and the pigtail. I couldn’t find any used connectors for Mustangs, so I ordered a pair of new ones from rockauto.com for less than $17 each. I removed unused pins and labeled the wires using the wiring diagram below. Note that connectors also comes with pin numbers for reference.

Since splice points end up within the trunk, I used push-in connectors, in case I need to swap wires around. I’ll solder them later once everything tests OK.
5.JPG
6.png


5. SODL and SODR mounted.
7.JPG
8.JPG

6. Below is how it looks in the trunk from the right side. I plan to trim the excess, solder the connections, and put the wires in a loom later. Fry’s sells wires in black, white, red, green, and yellow, so I came up with my own wiring scheme.

i. Yellow: ALERT
ii. Red: VPWR
iii. Green: MS CAN+
iv. White: MS CAN-
v. Black: GND
9.JPG

7. I ran the GND wires to the grounding point on left center left center rear of trunk as shown in the diagram above. Several other devices already use it.
10.JPG

8. I have a coupe, so the Body Control Module B (BCMB) is on the right side of the trunk. The black harness contains pin #11 (GRY) for MS CAN+ and #23 (VIO) for MS CAN-. Unlike others, two thinner wires share one pin each as shown in the wiring diagram. It doesn’t matter which wire you tape into as long as the polarity matches.
11.JPG

Wiring diagram shows a Radio Transceiver Module (RTM) that’s supposed to be on the left rear of the trunk, but I didn’t see one on my car. If you do have one, you may be able to tap into its wires to for SODL and avoid running wires access the trunk.
12.png

9. For VPWR wires, I combined wires from both SODs and ran it to the VPWR wire (BLU/WHT) used by the rear camera. I tapped into the BLU/WHT wire near the rear right speaker.
13.JPG
14.png


10. As for the ALERT wires, I just ran them to the dash along the left and right sides of the car.

Updating configuration with FORScan

1. With the hardware in place and wired up, the next step is to update IPC, SODL, and SODR configuration using FORScan. Make a backup of your as-built data in case you need to revert.


a. Select “No” if it asks you to load the existing profile if you used FORScan before on the same car. Using an existing profile prevents scanning of newly installed modules.

b. Grab a hexadecimal version of your VIN. I used lines 726-09-01 through 726-11-01 from the BCM.

15.png


2. Enable CTA and BLIS in the IPC:

a. 720-01-01 xxxx xxxx *xxx 6 --> 7

b. 720-03-01 *xxx xxxx 2 --> 6

c. Below is how it looks on mine, yours may differ based on your settings and options.
16.png


3. SODL and SODR modules threw two DTCs each enabled. One was for VIN mismatch and other for missing connection to the Door Control Module B (DCMB). They had the VIN for the previous car since I bought the modules used. They were from Ford Edge and connectors for them were missing the ALERT pins, so I suspected that Edge uses DCMB to trigger the BLIS lights.


a. Since I don’t know which line controls the usage of DCMB, I copied SODL and SODR as built data from another EB with the RSS option:

SODL
17.png


SODR
18.png


b. For the VIN, I copied the values from BCM to lines 7C4-08-01 and 7C6-08-01 till the end.


4. After updating all the configuration values and writing them, clear recorded DTCs. After a few seconds, modules will rerun self-tests, and there should be no new DTCs logged.
19.png


5. You should now see Blindspot and Cross Traffic Alert options enabled on the center screen.
20.JPG

6. I haven’t decided on the location for the LED diode lights, so I just wedged the wires for it between the dash and pillars for now. This way, I won’t have holes in pillars if I change my mind later. Both left and right lights turn on for a few seconds during the self-test after turning the car on. While driving, both lights should be off unless there is a car in the blind spot while in motion.
21.JPG


7. For the CTA test, I placed the car in the driveway with the parking brake set while in reverse. A friend drove down the street from the left to the right side. Left side warning came on first with sound and switched to the right side warning as he passed the car and continued down the right side until he was out of the range.
22.JPG
23.JPG


There you have it, BLIS and CTA enabled for about less than $300 in parts! View attachment 293749 View attachment 293751 View attachment 293767 View attachment 293777 View attachment 293778 View attachment 293779 View attachment 293780 View attachment 293781 View attachment 293782 View attachment 293783 View attachment 293784 View attachment 293785 View attachment 293786 View attachment 293787 View attachment 293788 View attachment 293789 View attachment 293790 View attachment 293791 View attachment 293792 View attachment 293793 View attachment 293794 View attachment 293795 View attachment 293796
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hro0250

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Great mod! I did this last year but didn't think anyone would've wanted a write up. I used the OEM mirror glass with BLIS and ran the alert wires into the mirrors to make it all look 100% factory.
 
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Bull Run

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Great mod! I did this last year but didn't think anyone would've wanted a write up. I used the OEM mirror glass with BLIS and ran the alert wires into the mirrors to make it all look 100% factory.
I studied the wiring diagrams so I had a good idea of which wires to tap into, but didn't know the exact physical locations until I pulled out the trunk trims. And modules from the Edge trying to use DCMB was something I didn't expect, so hopefully, this will save some time for folks wanting to give this a shot.

I saw in anther BLIS thread that some folks rather keep the concave mirrors (I feel the same), and I had rentals with BLIS lights on the side and liked their location. So I figured this was bthe est of both worlds and LED diodes being cheap helped, too.

Which locations did you use to tap into for MS CAN and VPWR wires? And did you see a RTM on the left side of the trunk?
 

hro0250

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Ah I see, I didn't like the spotter mirrors and wanted the full glass with the LED's. I followed the schematic exactly so I got my MS can from the climate module under the passenger seat which I snaked up along with the passenger side alert wire. As for power I did almost the same as you I believe, I accessed it up under the trunk where the harness branches off to go into the truck lid
 

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TicTocTach

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Fantastic work! BLIS was one of the options I wanted on my car and was willing to hunt for and pay the extra to get... this DIY potentially opens up a bunch of other cars for folks of a similar mindset but not able to find what they want.

This also shows me I have a LOT to learn about my new car...
 
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Bull Run

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Fantastic work! BLIS was one of the options I wanted on my car and was willing to hunt for and pay the extra to get... this DIY potentially opens up a bunch of other cars for folks of a similar mindset but not able to find what they want.

This also shows me I have a LOT to learn about my new car...
,
Attached is the wiring diagram file that I studied for the mod. This gave me a good understanding of various modules in the car and how they communicate, and I imagine there shouldn't be that big of a difference for MY2018r .
 

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TicTocTach

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,
Attached is the wiring diagram file that I studied for the mod. This gave me a good understanding of various modules in the car and how they communicate, and I imagine there shouldn't be that big of a difference for MY2018r .
Thanks - that's fantastic info! I assume that's from the factory service manual? What's the best source for those manuals/books/DVD's? I make it a point to get an original FSM for any car I own, but Google shows prices from $30-$300 and I don't want to risk a bunch of money on a disc that requires some special reader... BTDT with a Chrysler manual from years ago...

Thanks again for the info!

Clair
 
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Bull Run

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Thanks - that's fantastic info! I assume that's from the factory service manual? What's the best source for those manuals/books/DVD's? I make it a point to get an original FSM for any car I own, but Google shows prices from $30-$300 and I don't want to risk a bunch of money on a disc that requires some special reader... BTDT with a Chrysler manual from years ago...

Thanks again for the info!

Clair
I'll PM you with some info when I get home today.
 

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Bull Run

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I'm liking the placement of the BLIS lights in the A pillar area, therefore made the installation more permanent today.

Took out the rear seat bottom along with the trim to properly position the alert wires in the wiring loom.
IMG_6080.JPG


Drivers side already has added wiring loom for WMI, so I just merged the alert wire into it.
IMG_6076.JPG


Bolts by to the tweeters served as grounding points
IMG_6079.JPG


Passenger side light.
IMG_6083.JPG


Driver side light.

IMG_6086.JPG
 

TicTocTach

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I'm liking the placement of the BLIS lights in the A pillar area, therefore made the installation more permanent today.

Took out the rear seat bottom along with the trim to properly position the alert wires in the wiring loom.
IMG_6080.JPG


Drivers side already has added wiring loom for WMI, so I just merged the alert wire into it.
IMG_6076.JPG


Bolts by to the tweeters served as grounding points
IMG_6079.JPG


Passenger side light.
IMG_6083.JPG


Driver side light.

IMG_6086.JPG
I like the A-pillar mount better than in the mirror glass - a driver is more likely to see something in the A-pillar while looking forward than way out on the mirror. My wife's Pilot is this way, and it just works better for me. Nice bright LED's too!

More excellent work right here...
 
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Bull Run

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Bull Run

Bull Run

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I've been fielding questions from several members regarding how SOD MS CAN wires are spliced into the BCMB harness. Below is a crude diagram showing how I did it, I'll take better pictures when I go back to solder the splices (probably won't happen until the fall when it's cooler). It doesn't matter which wire in the pair you use, as they go into the same pin on the harness.
BCMB_MS_CAN_splice.png
 

Chappers

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This might seem a stupid question but will any Ford Blis modules work on this as long as they're the 14C689 type? I've seen some modules going cheap on ebay and I'd like to do this to my mustang in the future
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