Two 19x11 Square Setup Installs

[Norm Peterson]

All of the major tire/wheel places are notoriously conservative when it comes to wheel and tire widths, especially where front fitments are involved. Their reasons probably involve minimizing returns, dealing with unhappy customers, and not paying additional staff to find out what combinations fit all the different cars they carry wheels for.

Chances are they never contacted anybody, or they did and the wheel guy threw so many caveats on things like tire size or offset at them that they still didn't want to deal with it.

As far as I know, wheel diameter is irrelevant.

285/35 . . . 9.5" min, 10.0" measuring, 11" max
295/35 . . . 10.0" min, 10.5" measuring, 11.5" max
305/35 . . . 10.0" min, 11.0" measuring, 12" max

Using measuring width as the only consistent indicator available for 'stretch' or 'pinch', 295/35's on 11" would be a very mild stretch. Most people wouldn't notice.


Norm

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[dharts9]

All of the major tire/wheel places are notoriously conservative when it comes to wheel and tire widths, especially where front fitments are involved. Their reasons probably involve minimizing returns, dealing with unhappy customers, and not paying additional staff to find out what combinations fit all the different cars they carry wheels for.

Chances are they never contacted anybody, or they did and the wheel guy threw so many caveats on things like tire size or offset at them that they still didn't want to deal with it.

As far as I know, wheel diameter is irrelevant.

285/35 . . . 9.5" min, 10.0" measuring, 11" max
295/35 . . . 10.0" min, 10.5" measuring, 11.5" max
305/35 . . . 10.0" min, 11.0" measuring, 12" max

Using measuring width as the only consistent indicator available for 'stretch' or 'pinch', 295/35's on 11" would be a very mild stretch. Most people wouldn't notice.


Norm

Yea I think you are right about being conservative which is exactly why I ditched the "customer service" and came to the forum. I read over this thread and see that a 20mm or 25mm spacer is needed with the 305/35 setup so I'll be sure to get that (ordering wheels and tires today!). I do have one question, everyone mentioned their camber but does that vary depending on the tire once you get to the bigger set ups?

 

[Norm Peterson]

I wouldn't expect camber to vary more than a tiny amount based only on tire size. Though if there's a change in offset in the less-positive direction, that probably affects camber variation a tiny bit in the opposite direction.

You might want or need to set camber a little more negatively for hard cornering or for sheetmetal clearance/tire ability to tuck inside in 'bump'. Or less negatively at the strut to knuckle joint for strut clearance, but those are separate matters.


Norm

 

[XPystchrisX]

I called an online vendor and had the same experience. The major online vendors are trying to walk a fine line between protecting the customer and protecting the company (which sometimes is the same thing). The 19x11 and above setup is a bit more extreme and requires proper offsets, spacers etc so they will default to "can't be done safely".
I had the same questions you had and talked to @Wolverine and discussed his setup. He's running exactly the setup I'm interested in with 305/35's and minimal clearance issues. My plan is, as soon as my current PS91's run out (burnout time?), to grab a set of Potenza S007A's on some 19x11 +50's from LMR's SVE brand. Pair that up with some 20 or 25mm spacers and extended studs. Should be a solid compromise between grip and durability.

 

[dharts9]

I called an online vendor and had the same experience. The major online vendors are trying to walk a fine line between protecting the customer and protecting the company (which sometimes is the same thing). The 19x11 and above setup is a bit more extreme and requires proper offsets, spacers etc so they will default to "can't be done safely".
I had the same questions you had and talked to @Wolverine and discussed his setup. He's running exactly the setup I'm interested in with 305/35's and minimal clearance issues. My plan is, as soon as my current PS91's run out (burnout time?), to grab a set of Potenza S007A's on some 19x11 +50's from LMR's SVE brand. Pair that up with some 20 or 25mm spacers and extended studs. Should be a solid compromise between grip and durability.

GO big or go home they say and I cannot wait to burn out my stocks. Im debating now between the original pilot SS's and the 555 g2's but will probably go Nitto. Do you know of the type of extended studs that a preferred?

 

[Wolverine]

dharts9 - You were absolutely correct to come here to the forum for more specific advice on what REALLY works and what doesn't on this car. @Norm is exactly right too, the wheel/tire shops are very conservative and they don't want to push the envelope to the far reaches because most of the time their customers just want the look of new wheels more than the performance they could get from wider wheels and tires.

There are only three pieces to make this puzzle work:
19x11" +50 squared wheels
20mm spacer in front only (slip on spacer, NOT bolt on adapter. See "OP Mustang" vendor)
ARP 1" extended studs, part number 100-7733

You can run the taller tire sizes in this regard also, for example my Nitto 555 G2 tires, in 305/35R19, are taller than a 305/30R19 tire and yes they still fit and clear suspension and bodywork fine (barely a whiff of rub on one of the plastic bumps in the fender liner, but that will self-clearance in no time (or you could trim it with a razor blade).

As for specific tire choice, I think the MPSS compound is superior to the Nitto G2's I have, but sometimes cost, availability, sizing, looks, treadwear warranty, etc can steer the decision too. Either one will work from a mechanical standpoint.

 

[XPystchrisX]

I'm planning on giving OPMustang a call. They're the vendor I purchased my BG products for my transmission from. They were super fast to ship and great to deal with.
https://www.opmustang.com/store/c2/WHEEL_STUDS_-_HUBS_-_SPACERS_AND_TIRE_ACCESSORIES.html#/
To keep things equal, adding a 25mm spacer means I'll need 25mm, or an inch, of additional wheel stud up front. This has me thinking that the ARP studs listed here:
https://www.opmustang.com/store/p99...ended_Length_Stud_5_Pack_2015__Mustang.html#/
They call out about 1/2 way down the description which one is 1in longer. Then just grab which ever lugs and mustang specific hub-centric spacers are required. That's another reason why those SVE wheels are appealing, they're the proper center-bore for the Mustang so I don't have to worry about adapter rings.

Edit: @Wolverine beat me to it.

 

[dharts9]

dharts9 - You were absolutely correct to come here to the forum for more specific advice on what REALLY works and what doesn't on this car. @Norm is exactly right too, the wheel/tire shops are very conservative and they don't want to push the envelope to the far reaches because most of the time their customers just want the look of new wheels more than the performance they could get from wider wheels and tires.

There are only three pieces to make this puzzle work:
19x11" +50 squared wheels
20mm spacer in front only (slip on spacer, NOT bolt on adapter. See "OP Mustang" vendor)
ARP 1" extended studs, part number 100-7733

You can run the taller tire sizes in this regard also, for example my Nitto 555 G2 tires, in 305/35R19, are taller than a 305/30R19 tire and yes they still fit and clear suspension and bodywork fine (barely a whiff of rub on one of the plastic bumps in the fender liner, but that will self-clearance in no time (or you could trim it with a razor blade).

As for specific tire choice, I think the MPSS compound is superior to the Nitto G2's I have, but sometimes cost, availability, sizing, looks, treadwear warranty, etc can steer the decision too. Either one will work from a mechanical standpoint.

Awesome information, much appreciated. Is there issues with the bolt on adapter? Was the stud replacement a tedious task?

 

[dharts9]

I'm planning on giving OPMustang a call. They're the vendor I purchased my BG products for my transmission from. They were super fast to ship and great to deal with.
https://www.opmustang.com/store/c2/WHEEL_STUDS_-_HUBS_-_SPACERS_AND_TIRE_ACCESSORIES.html#/
To keep things equal, adding a 25mm spacer means I'll need 25mm, or an inch, of additional wheel stud up front. This has me thinking that the ARP studs listed here:
https://www.opmustang.com/store/p99...ended_Length_Stud_5_Pack_2015__Mustang.html#/
They call out about 1/2 way down the description which one is 1in longer. Then just grab which ever lugs and mustang specific hub-centric spacers are required. That's another reason why those SVE wheels are appealing, they're the proper center-bore for the Mustang so I don't have to worry about adapter rings.

Edit: @Wolverine beat me to it.

I came across the SVE's a few weeks ago also, finally about to bring em home. You and @Wolverine have been extremely helpful I'm going to order the 20mm spacer and 1" ext. studs today so I can hopefully get everything mounted and have some fun next weekend.

 

[XPystchrisX]

Glad I could help.
The bolt-on adapters personally I'm erring on the side of caution. Do I think they'd work without issue, probably. There are a lot of people who run them on some heavily modified cars. My issue is that you now have two clamping loads one of which requires a set of bolts to be removed in order to check them. On a car that's being tracked a bunch that's probably fine because you should be checking and re-checking torque specs on things like lugs frequently. But on a road car? Yeah, we're more lax than we would like to admit.
Pulling the studs out of a hub is a pain in the ass, only because it means removing a bunch of things to get to the studs. It's one of those jobs that when you do it the first time you go slow and you can't mess it up. It's more tedious, than difficult. Once it's done, it's done. Then you can run a spacer and you only have a single clamp force (the lug nuts) to worry about.

 

[dharts9]

Glad I could help.
The bolt-on adapters personally I'm erring on the side of caution. Do I think they'd work without issue, probably. There are a lot of people who run them on some heavily modified cars. My issue is that you now have two clamping loads one of which requires a set of bolts to be removed in order to check them. On a car that's being tracked a bunch that's probably fine because you should be checking and re-checking torque specs on things like lugs frequently. But on a road car? Yeah, we're more lax than we would like to admit.
Pulling the studs out of a hub is a pain in the ass, only because it means removing a bunch of things to get to the studs. It's one of those jobs that when you do it the first time you go slow and you can't mess it up. It's more tedious, than difficult. Once it's done, it's done. Then you can run a spacer and you only have a single clamp force (the lug nuts) to worry about.

Yep, sounds like a pain for sure lol but maybe it will be an excuse for me to go ahead and upgrade my brakes while I'm at it. Since the studs are now longer does that mean bye-bye to any smaller wheel set-ups like when switching to winter tires?

 

[XPystchrisX]

Yep, sounds like a pain for sure lol but maybe it will be an excuse for me to go ahead and upgrade my brakes while I'm at it. Since the studs are now longer does that mean bye-bye to any smaller wheel set-ups like when switching to winter tires?

I don't believe so. In that scenario you're probably just bolting on the winter wheels and will have a bit more stud sticking out through the bolt holes than before if you're not using the spacers. But that's how people know you're serious business. When you're using extended studs and they're an entire inch longer than they need to be.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Yep, sounds like a pain for sure lol but maybe it will be an excuse for me to go ahead and upgrade my brakes while I'm at it. Since the studs are now longer does that mean bye-bye to any smaller wheel set-ups like when switching to winter tires?

Nope. Not necessarily, anyway.

You would have to use open-ended lug nuts, though.

You may also be able to run the OE closed-end lug nuts down against the open-ended nuts (you need only torque these to something like 30 ft*lbs) to protect the stud threads and perhaps give a more finished appearance.


Norm

 

[Wolverine]

Yep, sounds like a pain for sure lol but maybe it will be an excuse for me to go ahead and upgrade my brakes while I'm at it. Since the studs are now longer does that mean bye-bye to any smaller wheel set-ups like when switching to winter tires?

Not at all. In fact the greatest thing about the ARP studs in front with a slide on 20-25mm spacer is that even your narrow wheel/tire setups can be used the same way as for your wide setup.

So when it comes time to switch, take off your 11” wheels, leave the spacer in place, and bolt up your 9” winter set (or any set for that matter). Even a bone stock Mustang can run the 20mm spacer nicely up front.

Or if you’d like to remove the spacer, that’s no problem either. Pull the spacer off and run any wheel you like right at the hub, and all you’ll need for this is open ended lug-nuts as has been mentioned already.

I use Gorilla splined full-duplex (the deep ones), and they swallow the ARP stud that sticks out as long as I have my spacers in. I’m sure if I pulled my spacers out, even these long closed-end nuts wouldn’t be able to work, but I’d run some open ended nuts without thinking twice. As long as they’re steel....no aluminum lug nuts please.

 

[dharts9]

Order is in fellas, I should have everything next Tues/Wed so by the weekend I'll be posting pictures of the new setup.

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