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Checking The Damn Oil......Again

NoVaGT

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So, we've discussed this before, but I'm frustrated with checking the oil on my car.

I can't check it when it's hot, as the oil is so thin it's impossible to read the dip-stick. And there's oil all splashed around up in the dip-stick holder thingy, that oil is just smeared all over it. And we'll just disregard that damned strut-brace all up in my grill when I'm trying to check it.

Usually I've checked it cold. What do we think that will do to the accuracy of the reading? Wouldn't it read a bit high, say, on a 90 degree day?
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cosmo

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The bigger thing than temp when checking cold is how long the engine sits, as you get the drainback from the oil passages and whatnot. As long as you're consistent (i.e. always waiting 15 minutes after engine shutdown, always in the morning after sitting beyond 8 hours) you're fine. Target the top of the hash mark.
 

bdm219

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You're supposed to check the oil when the engine is cold, as in hasn't been run.
 

DickR

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So, we've discussed this before, but I'm frustrated with checking the oil on my car.

I can't check it when it's hot, as the oil is so thin it's impossible to read the dip-stick. And there's oil all splashed around up in the dip-stick holder thingy, that oil is just smeared all over it. And we'll just disregard that damned strut-brace all up in my grill when I'm trying to check it.

Usually I've checked it cold. What do we think that will do to the accuracy of the reading? Wouldn't it read a bit high, say, on a 90 degree day?
You're not serious I hope. :-)

I checked the oil hot in my 15 GT PP and now in my 18 GT PP many times while hot with new oil and old eyes. Flashlight or other good light solves the "see the oil" and "see the dipstick holder" problems. Mechanics gloves solve the heat issue.

Someone posted in another thread that the owner manual says to check hot but in my experience it makes very little difference assuming the oil was hot when the engine was shut off.

It might not be the easiest oil checking process I've experienced but certainly not the hardest.
 

stevegt

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I’ve checked mine hot after waiting 15 min per the manual and cold the next morning. The two readings are actually pretty similar which is to say they are just about at the top hash mark. Have been that way since I started checking the day I took delivery (a little over 500 miles on car now).

However, in my 2012 GT the hot reading would always be somewhat higher than the cold reading. One thing I did with that car to make the hot reading easier to see was to pull the dipstick at the start of the 15 minute waiting period. That allows the oil trapped up in the dip stick tube a chance to drain out making for a cleaner reading.
 
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Norm Peterson

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If the dipstick is too shiny, perhaps scuffing the back side of it with sandpaper will help. I did that to the dipstick on one of my previous cars.


Norm
 

VinnAY

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So, we've discussed this before, but I'm frustrated with checking the oil on my car.

I can't check it when it's hot, as the oil is so thin it's impossible to read the dip-stick. And there's oil all splashed around up in the dip-stick holder thingy, that oil is just smeared all over it. And we'll just disregard that damned strut-brace all up in my grill when I'm trying to check it.

Usually I've checked it cold. What do we think that will do to the accuracy of the reading? Wouldn't it read a bit high, say, on a 90 degree day?
Drama Queen...surrender your man card already.
 

TomcatDriver

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So, we've discussed this before, but I'm frustrated with checking the oil on my car.

I can't check it when it's hot, as the oil is so thin it's impossible to read the dip-stick. And there's oil all splashed around up in the dip-stick holder thingy, that oil is just smeared all over it. And we'll just disregard that damned strut-brace all up in my grill when I'm trying to check it.

Usually I've checked it cold. What do we think that will do to the accuracy of the reading? Wouldn't it read a bit high, say, on a 90 degree day?
Reading glasses. It's time.
 

Braski

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At 8+ quarts if it's near the bottom at any given time just throw a quart in it. If you drove her hard from day one than there's probably no need to check it more than once between changes. All these post about proper weight are funny, this post is actually more important than any of those. Pretty much you can run any brand from factory recommend 5-20 all the way to Euro style of 0-40, don't let the dip stick go dry, change oil/filter every 5-10k miles all depending on how you drive it and you will be good to Go! More important don't cheap out on the filter.
 

GT Pony

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As long as you're consistent (i.e. always waiting 15 minutes after engine shutdown, always in the morning after sitting beyond 8 hours) you're fine. Target the top of the hash mark.
I always check in the morning when the engine is cold. And yes, the top line of the hashed area is the full cold mark. If the oil is fully hot, the full mark is the top hole on the dipstick. Cold oil is much easier to see on the dipstick.
 

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So, we've discussed this before, but I'm frustrated with checking the oil on my car.

I can't check it when it's hot, as the oil is so thin it's impossible to read the dip-stick. And there's oil all splashed around up in the dip-stick holder thingy, that oil is just smeared all over it. And we'll just disregard that damned strut-brace all up in my grill when I'm trying to check it.

Usually I've checked it cold. What do we think that will do to the accuracy of the reading? Wouldn't it read a bit high, say, on a 90 degree day?

Sugestion . . . If your dip stick only has hash marks on it, do this the next time you get your oil changed. Note where the full mrk is on the ON THE DIPSTICK. Drill a small hole through the dipstick at that new oil fullmark.
Next time you check your oil level after driving, if when you withdraw the dipstick and the hole has oil in it, you know the oil is at the right level. If hole is empty, you need to possible add oil.
 

wildcatgoal

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I check the oil after I fill it and midway through a track day. Car must be sitting for 15-min. Doesn't matter if it's hot or not. Just be in the hashed area, you're fine. Try turning the dipstick around.
 

Norm Peterson

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Anywhere in the hashed area is supposed to be fine for street driving. I don't think I'd want to be any lower than about 3/4 of the way up the hashed area at the start of a session.


Norm
 

gixxersixxerman

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Anywhere in the hashed area is supposed to be fine for street driving. I don't think I'd want to be any lower than about 3/4 of the way up the hashed area at the start of a session.


Norm
I agree with that 100% and was going to comment pretty much the same thing. As long as its in the hash, you are good to go, but if you are going to drive aggressive, autoX, track, mountain/canyon roads, id have it to the top. So far my 18 doesnt seem to use any oil. factory fill stayed the same, when i changed it at 1200 miles its been the same the last 700 miles. i check weekly as a good friends 17 GT was burning oil really bad for that first 10k miles, but less then a qrt now.
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