Bluemustang’s GT Road Car Build

[Bluemustang]

I’ve waited awhile to post my car up here, but now I’ve got most of the mods done to the car how I like. So I wanted share with you all!

My goal was to make it into a proper GT car and to be equal to the PP model (or preferably better) and I think I’ve done that and then some.

I took a long time sorting the suspension (and went through a few setups to find the right one) and a long time figuring out what wheels/tires I wanted. In retrospect I would’ve bought wheels and tires and exhaust first and then deal with suspension later. That would have made a much larger difference right off the bat. But for some reason I decided if I didn't do suspension right away I would never follow through.

Here’s my 2015 base model Mustang GT, Automatic, Deep Impact Blue

Here are the modifications I’ve done to this point (***Updated 2/27/2024).

Suspension:

Ohlins Road and Track coilovers
515lb./in. Front, 800lb./in. Rear
Sway Bars - BMR Front Bar (35mm)
GT350 Rear Bar (22.2mm)

Front suspension components:
Ford Performance Strut Tower Brace/Cowl Brace
PP firewall extension panel
Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates
Steeda Bumpsteer Kit
Steeda Lateral Links w/ roll center correction
Steeda Tension Links, spherical bearings

IRS Components:

BMR CB005 IRS Subframe Cradle Lockout
BMR UCA762 adjustable rear camber arms
BMR WAL761 rear camber lockout bracket
Ford Performance Toe to Knuckle Bearings
Steeda RLCA Bearings
Steeda Billet Urethane Vertical Links
Steeda Subframe Alignment Kit
J&M Shock Mounts

Aero/Body:

GT350 Track Pack Spoiler
Verus Engineering Rear Diffuser
PP splitter lip & belly pan
ZL1 splitter extension
Quiklatch bumper mounts

Brakes:
Performance Pack Brembo 6 piston calipers
Performance Pack brake pads

Exhaust/Engine/Drivetrain:

Corsa Sport Catback
Lund Racing 93/E85 tune (8000 rpm rev limit)
Ported 2018 intake manifold
Ford Performance 47lb. Injectors (LU47)
2015-17 JLT cold air intake
Velossa Tech Big Mouth ram air inlet
JLT 3.0 catch can - passenger side
2018 PP Torsen differential, 3.55 gear set
Steeda Urethane Differential Bushing Inserts

Wheels/tires:

Street: Michelin PS AS4 275/40R19
SVE Drift gloss black wheels - 19x9.5

Track: MRR M600 19x11 - ET24, ET50 | Bridgestone RE71R 305/30R19


Interior:
GT350R steering wheel

It started out as a few mods to make it better than stock, and it eventually grew into a car that is very far from stock in feel and performance. The handling and the engine performance is far superior to the stock and it’s a very responsive car to drive now. The suspension modifications in particular provide a much greater feel and response that is almost race car ish now. It’s very much modified to the point where: to your average joe it may not be his/her cup of tea. But I really like the feel of a sporty car and I definitely feel everything driving this car.

I was having some fun with a very nice, modified Audi S4 the other day, and he was trying to push it in the corners. I caught him quickly going around the bend and then was like, “Is that all you got?” Lol

Here’s a pic of my car with the new wheels/tires and I’ll add more pics very soon and update as I add more!

Sponsored

 

[reed034]

Looks great! Cant wait to see more photos with your new wheels.

 

[Bluemustang]

Looks great! Cant wait to see more photos with your new wheels.

Thanks man! I'll try to upload some tonight

 

[Bluemustang]

 

[Bluemustang]

 

[reed034]

Looks super clean. Thanks for the upload!

 

[Bluemustang]

Now that I have the car pretty much where I want, I began to reflect upon what brought me to this point. I wanted to make it a proper GT car and make it more capable on the track when the time came. But more importantly I wanted to be able to push the car on the back roads without fear that car couldn’t do it. Once I started to learn the car I realized that it had some obvious dynamics issues in stock form, probably moreso because it’s a base car.

The car had some glaring weaknesses and had to be addressed. I could feel the rear cradle moving around even at slow speeds in daily driving. And putting power down in corners the cradle movement made it unpredictable and downright dangerous. Wheelhop was also really bad.

To improve the handling I decided to do a major upgrade to the suspension. Shocks, springs, bars.... cradle lockout, etc. Pretty much a complete overhaul of the suspension. In the past 2 years, I have gone through two different combinations of springs & shocks and I am on my 3rd and last! Finally. And in that time a few other suspension components were changed as well. Through my experience with this car and learning from others (many of you on M6G) namely @BmacIL @Rebellion @BMR Tech and many many others, I discovered what worked and what didn’t in modifying the suspension.

The first thing I learned is that this car doesn’t really like to be lowered by that much. It can cause all sorts of adverse effects. The rear is more prone to this than the front but still. Lowering the car too much makes it ride worse and messes up the geometry bad. At the beginning I started out with BMR SP080s with KONI sport shocks. I really liked the springs but I knew the shocks were over damped for the spring rates for my personal taste. The shocks made the ride quality very poor unless I was at high speeds on the highway. I decided I needed a combination of springs that were made to work in harmony moreso with the dampeners which is what led me to switch to the FRPP springs and shocks. The ride quality was a lot better than before, which I attribute mostly to the FRPP shocks. And it handled even better too. I did have some bumpsteer on both setups, which I mostly corrected with the Steeda bumpsteer kit.

I was very happy with that setup for awhile until I began to realize that the progressive/dual rate springs actually made the ride quality worse at times. I also felt disappointed by the handling feel. It cornered really well but it didn’t translate all the feel of the car to me, at least not directly. The handling feel was unpredictable. It made it feel like I couldn’t go as fast as I actually could. And bad bumps were made doubly harsh, due to the rapid increase in spring rate when it stiffened up. I started learning more about spring rates and particularly ride frequency.

The relationship of ride frequency from front to rear plays an important role in the ride quality. So it’s not just about the spring rates. The drop and relative ride frequency is important. This was right about the time where I was considering minimum drop springs because I had already experienced some of detrimental effects of changing the suspension geometry.

Through several months of research and advice and help from others I decided to swap out my FRPP track springs for BMR SP083s, the new version BMR recently released. I chose this drop and spring rates for a few reasons. One, it has a linear spring rate. Two, it has a smaller drop with only 7/8” drop in front and 3/4” drop in rear. Three, the ride frequency ratio was favorable, allowing the body to remain stable and flat over bumps. Even though the springs are among the highest true linear rates out there, it still rides acceptably and is more docile that I expected. I gained suspension travel and the rates are tuned well from front to rear. And are stiff enough to keep the body flat and level in corners, keeping geometry more in check.

The result was I ended up getting everything I wanted. The handling feel is out of this world and feels somewhere between a sports car and a race car. Road inputs are transmitted directly to me and are felt through steering wheel. I can feel what’s happening with the wheels, tires, and the body at all times. The ride quality is IMO better than the FRPP springs despite the increase in spring rates. And they work very well with these dampers. Between the CC plates, the sway bars, the springs and shocks, the RLCA bearing, the cradle lockout, etc. it’s a very stiff and firm riding car. And it handles like a beast. It is extremely responsive that I need to teach myself to relax on the steering wheel.

The vertical links I learned - it’s good to have some compliance. Delrin vertical links just aren’t necessary IMO and have a tendency to make noise. The polyurethane does the job and made the ride quality slightly better.

The RLCA bearing- this is a serious mod that is not for everyone. It’s a significant handling improvement but at the cost of feeling everything the rear end is doing. Personally I like it. It takes all the vague feel of the rear end away. I can now step away hard from a stop and make a tight turn easily. The car stays and bites into the road.

The toe knuckle bearing- I’d definitely do again. Minimal impact on ride quality and greater cornering consistency. It also IMO works in tandem somewhat with the RLCA bearing to make the suspension more solid.

The differential bushings inserts- These I wish I’d skipped. They are not necessary at all for handling purposes and all they do is cause noise and harshness IMHO.

The cradle lockout. This. Is. CRITICAL. Everyone who has an S550 go do it. Right away. The best mod for $ for this car, period. Minimal impact to the ride quality, however the handling improvement is giant. It does impact the ride quality some especially when combined with other IRS parts like I have. So worth noting but still it’s a no brainer.

The sway bars - this I would have left til last. These BMR bars might be a smidge stiff for my current setup which is why I might do GT350 bars. This is a tuning tool and should have been left til last. Still I am very happy with the bars.

The biggest lesson of my suspension modding journey is to do things with a purpose and start slow. Start by finding the right spring and shock combination. If handling is the game then a lot of research needs to take place to understand why.

Anyway, if you’re still here? Lol and you’ve gotten this far, I just wanted to share some background as to how I ended up with my suspension modifications.

Now that I have the wheels and tires it’s a different car than even before. More about that later. If you’re reading this thanks for listening and following. I am very grateful to this forum for helping me make this car what it should be! More to come soon!

 

[BmacIL]

It's been a fun and similar journey with you!

 

[Bluemustang]

It's been a fun and similar journey with you!

Thanks man! And your advice has been invaluable to my progress.

As you know I have enjoyed following your car and have taken quite a few things from you! We both went the same route of the clean build too.

 

[WalterArch]

Now that I have the car pretty much where I want, I began to reflect upon what brought me to this point. I wanted to make it a proper GT car and make it more capable on the track when the time came. But more importantly I wanted to be able to push the car on the back roads without fear that car couldn’t do it. Once I started to learn the car I realized that it had some obvious dynamics issues in stock form, probably moreso because it’s a base car.

The car had some glaring weaknesses and had to be addressed. I could feel the rear cradle moving around even at slow speeds in daily driving. And putting power down in corners the cradle movement made it unpredictable and downright dangerous. Wheelhop was also really bad.

To improve the handling I decided to do a major upgrade to the suspension. Shocks, springs, bars.... cradle lockout, etc. Pretty much a complete overhaul of the suspension. In the past 2 years, I have gone through two different combinations of springs & shocks and I am on my 3rd and last! Finally. And in that time a few other suspension components were changed as well. Through my experience with this car and learning from others (many of you on M6G) namely @BmacIL @Rebellion @BMR Tech and many many others, I discovered what worked and what didn’t in modifying the suspension.

The first thing I learned is that this car doesn’t really like to be lowered by that much. It can cause all sorts of adverse effects. The rear is more prone to this than the front but still. Lowering the car too much makes it ride worse and messes up the geometry bad. At the beginning I started out with BMR SP080s with KONI sport shocks. I really liked the springs but I knew the shocks were over damped for the spring rates for my personal taste. The shocks made the ride quality very poor unless I was at high speeds on the highway. I decided I needed a combination of springs that were made to work in harmony moreso with the dampeners which is what led me to switch to the FRPP springs and shocks. The ride quality was a lot better than before, which I attribute mostly to the FRPP shocks. And it handled even better too. I did have some bumpsteer on both setups, which I mostly corrected with the Steeda bumpsteer kit.

I was very happy with that setup for awhile until I began to realize that the progressive/dual rate springs actually made the ride quality worse at times. I also felt disappointed by the handling feel. It cornered really well but it didn’t translate all the feel of the car to me, at least not directly. The handling feel was unpredictable. It made it feel like I couldn’t go as fast as I actually could. And bad bumps were made doubly harsh, due to the rapid increase in spring rate when it stiffened up. I started learning more about spring rates and particularly ride frequency.

The relationship of ride frequency from front to rear plays an important role in the ride quality. So it’s not just about the spring rates. The drop and relative ride frequency is important. This was right about the time where I was considering minimum drop springs because I had already experienced some of detrimental effects of changing the suspension geometry.

Through several months of research and advice and help from others I decided to swap out my FRPP track springs for BMR SP083s, the new version BMR recently released. I chose this drop and spring rates for a few reasons. One, it has a linear spring rate. Two, it has a smaller drop with only 7/8” drop in front and 3/4” drop in rear. Three, the ride frequency ratio was favorable, allowing the body to remain stable and flat over bumps. Even though the springs are among the highest true linear rates out there, it still rides acceptably and is more docile that I expected. I gained suspension travel and the rates are tuned well from front to rear. And are stiff enough to keep the body flat and level in corners, keeping geometry more in check.

The result was I ended up getting everything I wanted. The handling feel is out of this world and feels somewhere between a sports car and a race car. Road inputs are transmitted directly to me and are felt through steering wheel. I can feel what’s happening with the wheels, tires, and the body at all times. The ride quality is IMO better than the FRPP springs despite the increase in spring rates. And they work very well with these dampers. Between the CC plates, the sway bars, the springs and shocks, the RLCA bearing, the cradle lockout, etc. it’s a very stiff and firm riding car. And it handles like a beast. It is extremely responsive that I need to teach myself to relax on the steering wheel.

The vertical links I learned - it’s good to have some compliance. Delrin vertical links just aren’t necessary IMO and have a tendency to make noise. The polyurethane does the job and made the ride quality slightly better.

The RLCA bearing- this is a serious mod that is not for everyone. It’s a significant handling improvement but at the cost of feeling everything the rear end is doing. Personally I like it. It takes all the vague feel of the rear end away. I can now step away hard from a stop and make a tight turn easily. The car stays and bites into the road.

The toe knuckle bearing- I’d definitely do again. Minimal impact on ride quality and greater cornering consistency. It also IMO works in tandem somewhat with the RLCA bearing to make the suspension more solid.

The differential bushings inserts- These I wish I’d skipped. They are not necessary at all for handling purposes and all they do is cause noise and harshness IMHO.

The cradle lockout. This. Is. CRITICAL. Everyone who has an S550 go do it. Right away. The best mod for $ for this car, period. Minimal impact to the ride quality, however the handling improvement is giant. It does impact the ride quality some especially when combined with other IRS parts like I have. So worth noting but still it’s a no brainer.

The sway bars - this I would have left til last. These BMR bars might be a smidge stiff for my current setup which is why I might do GT350 bars. This is a tuning tool and should have been left til last. Still I am very happy with the bars.

The biggest lesson of my suspension modding journey is to do things with a purpose and start slow. Start by finding the right spring and shock combination. If handling is the game then a lot of research needs to take place to understand why.

Anyway, if you’re still here? Lol and you’ve gotten this far, I just wanted to share some background as to how I ended up with my suspension modifications.

Now that I have the wheels and tires it’s a different car than even before. More about that later. If you’re reading this thanks for listening and following. I am very grateful to this forum for helping me make this car what it should be! More to come soon!

First off, thank you for the all insight you have gathered and posted in a manner that's easy to follow your decision making process, but also summarizes the outcome of each decision. The care looks great!

I've started a recent post in the forum where I'm looking to put my first $1,000 into suspension and I'm really interested to hear your take. My first goal is to lower the car for looks, but it's as much for looks as it is performance pushing it on the street.

I've heard nothing but good things about the BMR rear lock-out piece but I still haven't wrapped my head around exactly what it does.

Anyways, if were to throw in your recommendation.... it sounds like it would be:
1st - BMR Lockout
2nd - Springs
3rd - ???

I'm on stock tires for now, but next year I'd like to get into a set of 20" wheels.

Cheers!

 

[Bluemustang]

First off, thank you for the all insight you have gathered and posted in a manner that's easy to follow your decision making process, but also summarizes the outcome of each decision. The care looks great!

I've started a recent post in the forum where I'm looking to put my first $1,000 into suspension and I'm really interested to hear your take. My first goal is to lower the car for looks, but it's as much for looks as it is performance pushing it on the street.

I've heard nothing but good things about the BMR rear lock-out piece but I still haven't wrapped my head around exactly what it does.

Anyways, if were to throw in your recommendation.... it sounds like it would be:
1st - BMR Lockout
2nd - Springs
3rd - ???

I'm on stock tires for now, but next year I'd like to get into a set of 20" wheels.

Cheers!

Hey buddy! Thank you for the kind words, I appreciate it.

Okay, so it sounds like you want a blend of looks and handling correct? It sounds like you are more going for looks than the handling aspect if you had to choose?

In terms of looks, that is a very subjective topic because some guys want it slammed to the ground and others are seeking a mild drop and kind've just fill out the fender gaps some. Some guys like a slight forward rake, others don't. I am personally fond of having a slight rake, which is what my BMR SP083 springs did. I have the Ford Racing springs before as you read, which drops it 1" all around. You would think that would look better but it wasn't the case on my car. In my case the BMR SP083s actually make it look better even though it's not as much of a drop. It just seems to be more aesthetically pleasing with the slight rake the SP083s give.

I am not personally a fan of dropping the car more than an inch for performance reasons and actually prefer a milder drop. I am also not fan of dropping it real low like the Eibach Sportlines would do. It f***s up the suspension geometry too much. But in terms of looks thats all personal preference.

My question to you is what is more important, appearance, handling, or a blend of both? And how important is ride quality to you and are you interested in a ride that is a good bit firmer so you feel the road more?

I am also a fan of linear spring rates as opposed to progressive which I sort of explained in my post.

1. Definitely get the CB005 cradle lockout. This is a must.

2. I'd like to see you get BMR SP763 springs for a milder drop and not a super firm spring rate. You might be happiest with those. If you want it to sit a tad lower, I would also recommend the regular Steeda Sport Linear springs (1" drop all around). The rates of both of these springs are favorable. The Steedas would be a little stiffer. If you want the maximum handling on the street (or to occasionally track) the SP083s are a massive handling improvement. They are basically the rates of GT350R suspension, except the SP083 rear spring rate is a little higher than the GT350R. What I love about these springs is the high linear rate for maximum handling and they don't drop it too much that it messes up the geometry to a bad point. Not to mention the car looks great IMO. The SP083s are a firm riding spring and the SP763s would be more comfortable but still firm. That said, as firm as they are, the SP083s still ride acceptably and is only a nuisance on really bad roads. You're just feeling the feedback from road. The SP763s would be "better" for a daily driver, but I drive my car all the time and I love it.

3. Ford Racing shocks/struts. This will work really well with any of these springs choice. They are monotube dampers which (generally speaking) are capable of better handling than the twin tube. I've had discussions with BmacIL, who is an engineer lol and he very much favors the monotube dampers. These dampers glue the tires to the road and soak up the bumps very well. These dampers are just great. They're basically GT350 valving. They are not crashy like the KONI Sports can be and if you did get the SP083s, they will be able to handle the high rear spring rate which the Steeda non-adj. pro actions cannot. The Adj. Pro Actions can but I have feedback from a friend that the non-adj. pro actions were not enough to handle the rear spring rate of the SP083.

If you ended up my setup SP083/Ford Racing dampers, you'd basically have a GT350 suspension without the GT350 costs. Plus the BMR springs will give you a slightly lower COG because the GT350 springs only drop like 0.3"ish, whereas the SP083 is 0.88" and 0.7" F/R. This setup along and you'd be very close or surpassing a GT350 in terms of handling. Trim your bumpstops to the BMR's spec and plan out your alignment specs and you're good to go.

 

[WalterArch]

Hey buddy! Thank you for the kind words, I appreciate it.

Okay, so it sounds like you want a blend of looks and handling correct? It sounds like you are more going for looks than the handling aspect if you had to choose?

In terms of looks, that is a very subjective topic because some guys want it slammed to the ground and others are seeking a mild drop and kind've just fill out the fender gaps some. Some guys like a slight forward rake, others don't. I am personally fond of having a slight rake, which is what my BMR SP083 springs did. I have the Ford Racing springs before as you read, which drops it 1" all around. You would think that would look better but it wasn't the case on my car. In my case the BMR SP083s actually make it look better even though it's not as much of a drop. It just seems to be more aesthetically pleasing with the slight rake the SP083s give.

I am not personally a fan of dropping the car more than an inch for performance reasons and actually prefer a milder drop. I am also not fan of dropping it real low like the Eibach Sportlines would do. It f***s up the suspension geometry too much. But in terms of looks thats all personal preference.

My question to you is what is more important, appearance, handling, or a blend of both? And how important is ride quality to you and are you interested in a ride that is a good bit firmer so you feel the road more?

I am also a fan of linear spring rates as opposed to progressive which I sort of explained in my post.

1. Definitely get the CB005 cradle lockout. This is a must.

2. I'd like to see you get BMR SP763 springs for a milder drop and not a super firm spring rate. You might be happiest with those. If you want it to sit a tad lower, I would also recommend the regular Steeda Sport Linear springs (1" drop all around). The rates of both of these springs are favorable. The Steedas would be a little stiffer. If you want the maximum handling on the street (or to occasionally track) the SP083s are a massive handling improvement. They are basically the rates of GT350R suspension, except the SP083 rear spring rate is a little higher than the GT350R. What I love about these springs is the high linear rate for maximum handling and they don't drop it too much that it messes up the geometry to a bad point. Not to mention the car looks great IMO. The SP083s are a firm riding spring and the SP763s would be more comfortable but still firm. That said, as firm as they are, the SP083s still ride acceptably and is only a nuisance on really bad roads. You're just feeling the feedback from road. The SP763s would be "better" for a daily driver, but I drive my car all the time and I love it.

3. Ford Racing shocks/struts. This will work really well with any of these springs choice. They are monotube dampers which (generally speaking) are capable of better handling than the twin tube. I've had discussions with BmacIL, who is an engineer lol and he very much favors the monotube dampers. These dampers glue the tires to the road and soak up the bumps very well. These dampers are just great. They're basically GT350 valving. They are not crashy like the KONI Sports can be and if you did get the SP083s, they will be able to handle the high rear spring rate which the Steeda non-adj. pro actions cannot. The Adj. Pro Actions can but I have feedback from a friend that the non-adj. pro actions were not enough to handle the rear spring rate of the SP083.

If you ended up my setup SP083/Ford Racing dampers, you'd basically have a GT350 suspension without the GT350 costs. Plus the BMR springs will give you a slightly lower COG because the GT350 springs only drop like 0.3"ish, whereas the SP083 is 0.88" and 0.7" F/R. This setup along and you'd be very close or surpassing a GT350 in terms of handling. Trim your bumpstops to the BMR's spec and plan out your alignment specs and you're good to go.

WOW!

Thank you so much for this information, it is so appreciated! I'll be back to let you know where I landed and to compare notes.

-Walter

 

[Bluemustang]

WOW!

Thank you so much for this information, it is so appreciated! I'll be back to let you know where I landed and to compare notes.

-Walter

Any time Walter! I'm excited for your suspension journey! Keep me posted.

Thanks for following my thread

 

[Bluemustang]

Update: I removed my BMR adjustable toe links because for some reason they weren't playing nice with my Ford Racing knuckle bearings. I was getting some serious clunking noises over bumps and at low speeds that would get worse with heat and longer drives. I put no blame on BMR for this and I think I know why this happened.

I swapped the OEM toe links back in and no noise. Bad news I forgot that I need the OEM eccentric bolts & related hardware to properly align the rear toe (DUH). So now my rear toe is negative LOL (about 3-4 mm toe out on both sides). And also as a result I have a rear camber of -2.0, -2.2. I've ordered the bolts & hardware and will be doing a re-alignment. Super relieved that this noise is gone as I have been dealing with it for awhile and it is super annoying

These are specs I will do based on recommendations from @BMR Tech and @BmacIL.

This basically adding .2 to .3 more negative camber than Kelly calls for.

Front camber: -1.8 per side
Front toe : 0.00
Rear camber : -1.5 per side
Rear toe: 0.10 per side for 0.20 total toe
Caster is pretty even about 7.5 so I may leave that alone

Will report back once that's all done. Tires are broken in now so its about time to burn up some pavement.

 

[Bluemustang]

Update:

I swapped out my BMR adjustable toe links for the stock ones because I had been getting annoying clunking. I am not sure what exactly caused it (install error, maybe dirt and grime got into bearing causing it to bind up).

Now the car rides even better than before. It’s noticeable over broken pavement. The rear suspension doesn’t seem to bind up like before. And the noise - 100% gone!! Now I have a sweet silent ride again.

Got a new alignment see attached. Car rides like a dream!

Next up:

In a few weeks going up to @BmacIL’s to install my ported 2018 intake manifold and Ford Racing LU47 injectors. Can’t wait!!!!

I wanted to add also - I do not regret my suspension setup at all. I think it's a proper GT "road car" now.

I look forward to putting on the 2018 intake manifold. IMO this car needs to be wrung out to 7500+ RPM to take full advantage of the Gen2 Coyote engine. It should give me a longer and somewhat flatter horsepower curve which I think will not only make it a faster car but also make it easier to drive fast.

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