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If your running Methanol, what are your settings?

lsiunsuex

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Just curious for those that have an AEM or Snow Performance Methanol kit - what are your settings?

Right now (for Snow Performance Stage 3) I'm starting at 15psi and then stopping at 25psi on a #2 nozzle. According to the instructions, I should be using the #3 nozzle, which my kit didn't come with and I ordered from them last week.

I was running the #5 nozzle (my kit came with #2 and #5) and that was just to much I think. Was getting a lot of crackle and pops and even stalled out in reverse, which is when I realized I was siphoning (ordered the anti siphon valve also). I blew through 3 gallons of Boost Juice in the first tank of gas - so, way way to much.

I've had it as low as starting at 5psi and stopping at 15psi and every where in between. Just trying to find the best settings for my setup.

Obviously, a lot of this has to do with specifics - how hot or cold the air is where you live, other mods, etc...

Did you / are you tuned to account for the methanol or no? I don't want to do this because I don't run the methanol all the time (just when I want a little extra boost) but maybe it's a good idea to have a tune made for when running methanol to get the most out of it? If I intend to use methanol, I can wait the 4 minutes to load the tune onto the ECU.

So my current setup is:
start 15psi
end 25psi
ETS intercooler
Steeda Intake
Steeda tune for 93 octane
NKG spark plugs

Thanks guys.
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Bull Run

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Just curious for those that have an AEM or Snow Performance Methanol kit - what are your settings?

Right now (for Snow Performance Stage 3) I'm starting at 15psi and then stopping at 25psi on a #2 nozzle. According to the instructions, I should be using the #3 nozzle, which my kit didn't come with and I ordered from them last week.

I was running the #5 nozzle (my kit came with #2 and #5) and that was just to much I think. Was getting a lot of crackle and pops and even stalled out in reverse, which is when I realized I was siphoning (ordered the anti siphon valve also). I blew through 3 gallons of Boost Juice in the first tank of gas - so, way way to much.

I've had it as low as starting at 5psi and stopping at 15psi and every where in between. Just trying to find the best settings for my setup.

Obviously, a lot of this has to do with specifics - how hot or cold the air is where you live, other mods, etc...

Did you / are you tuned to account for the methanol or no? I don't want to do this because I don't run the methanol all the time (just when I want a little extra boost) but maybe it's a good idea to have a tune made for when running methanol to get the most out of it? If I intend to use methanol, I can wait the 4 minutes to load the tune onto the ECU.

So my current setup is:
start 15psi
end 25psi
ETS intercooler
Steeda Intake
Steeda tune for 93 octane
NKG spark plugs

Thanks guys.
I'm currently running a TUNE+ setup (basically an AEM stage 2 with trunk mounts), upgraded with port injection and a 5th nozzle in the charge pipe. I'm currently running 6 PSI start and 25 PSI max, which is near the AEM guideline of starting at 25% of max boost. I had it as low as 2 PSI start and 15 PSI max, but seems like that was a bit too much because I'm getting better results with the current setting, will have to play around with it some more.

My mods are listed in my build page and I have maps for both WMI and no-WMI that I can switch back and forth on the fly. As for the WMI tune, it's on the conservative side to avoid ecoboom if WMI stops working. I accidentally did a WOT pull on a WMI map with WMI switched off during a test and the tune had enough leeway to adjust the timing as needed.

As for the failsafe, I set it up so WGA solenoid gets disabled when it's triggered. This limits the boost to the WGA spring rate, which is 17 PSI for the one that came with VS2+.

Didn't the Snow kit come with a check valve or solenoid to prevent siphoning? Yeah going through 3 gallons in a short time is excessive as 1 gallon usually lasts me a month.
 
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lsiunsuex

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I'm currently running a TUNE+ setup (basically an AEM stage 2 with trunk mounts), upgraded with port injection and a 5th nozzle in the charge pipe. I'm currently running 6 PSI start and 25 PSI max, which is near the AEM guideline of starting at 25% of max boost. I had it as low as 2 PSI start and 15 PSI max, but seems like that was a bit too much because I'm getting better results with the current setting, will have to play around with it some more.

My mods are listed in my build page and I have maps for both WMI and no-WMI that I can switch back and forth on the fly. As for the WMI tune, it's on the conservative side to avoid ecoboom if WMI stops working. I accidentally did a WOT pull on a WMI map with WMI switched off during a test and the tune had enough leeway to adjust the timing as needed.

As for the failsafe, I set it up so WGA solenoid gets disabled when it's triggered. This limits the boost to the WGA spring rate, which is 17 PSI for the one that came with VS2+.

Didn't the Snow kit come with a check valve or solenoid to prevent siphoning? Yeah going through 3 gallons in a short time is excessive as 1 gallon usually lasts me a month.
Thanks for the feedback buddy.

No - the kit from american muscle didn't come with the anti siphon solenoid - $60 part on their site. No big deal, but still 1 more thing to buy / PITA.

That and the #3 nozzle should be here Thursday - maybe i'll go back to 5-6 PSI and see how that works.

I have an MBRP downpipe on order and they say you should / need to re-tune for it so maybe when I get that installed, who ever I have do the tune (not sure I'm gonna use Steeda again) I'll get 2 tunes - 1 with WMI and 1 without, just to have the option.
 

5.0yote

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I am running the AEM kit as well but its been nothing but a headache since day one, just has not run consistently since I bought it, I am already on my 3rd controller basically, first one had to be repaired flashed and re-calibrated, then that one failed again was off like by over 2PSI on boost reference, I am on a new controller sold to me for a really good price due to the problems, but I have been having leak issues with the flow gauge's metering unit for some odd reason. when it was running Tune+ had me running 10PSI to start and 25PSI end as my max is 25+. I found that running it at 8PSI and 24PSI max was more appropriate due to variances in boost levels, ran the small nozzle (250cc). I am thinking of gutting the system and swapping in some other brand. Should be able to re-use the tank, Pump and filter, level sensor, some of the wiring for power etc, and if I can figure out whats with the flow gauge leaking could reuse that.

Since I am locked in at 400lb-ft torque wise the difference in my setup is only about 25-40HP difference on WMI on the stock unit, and it was like 60+ on the big turbo I had been running previously.
 

Elgyn

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AEM kit. The controller sucks balls and causes the pump buzz. Should have gone with another brand....will switch to another brand controller later

using it for air charge temp control only(not tuned for it) with the small 250cc nozzle set to 6psi start and full by 15psi and a flow solenoid since I've head that the AEM nozzles tend to leak. Works well with my Roush tune and 91 octane. Switching to 94 octane doesn't make any difference
 

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5.0yote

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AEM kit. The controller sucks balls and causes the pump buzz. Should have gone with another brand....will switch to another brand controller later

using it for air charge temp control only(not tuned for it) with the small 250cc nozzle set to 6psi start and full by 15psi and a flow solenoid since I've head that the AEM nozzles tend to leak. Works well with my Roush tune and 91 octane. Switching to 94 octane doesn't make any difference
No the pump buzzing is actually a feature its for circuit testing in real time for the pump in case there is a short in the wiring, to turn it off you have to turn the controller off and turn it on with the test button pushed in I believe. Read the manual. It is just an audible way to tell the circuit is good, that's all. You can also contact their tech support they can help you if you have issues turning it off. It has no affect on operation of the system.
 

ronemca

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?..Was getting a lot of crackle and pops and even stalled out in reverse, which is when I realized I was siphoning (ordered the anti siphon valve also).

Did you / are you tuned to account for the methanol or no? I don't want to do this because I don't run the methanol all the time (just when I want a little extra boost) but maybe it's a good idea to have a tune made for when running methanol to get the most out of it? If I intend to use methanol, I can wait the 4 minutes to load the tune onto the ECU.
Do you have your reservoir mounted at a higher level than your nozzle? And/or are you injecting in front of the TB or behind it?
 

Elgyn

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No the pump buzzing is actually a feature its for circuit testing in real time for the pump in case there is a short in the wiring, to turn it off you have to turn the controller off and turn it on with the test button pushed in I believe. Read the manual. It is just an audible way to tell the circuit is good, that's all. You can also contact their tech support they can help you if you have issues turning it off. It has no affect on operation of the system.
If it's just for testing it can be done other ways that don't make the pump buzz (ohmically testing and not current testing). It's a cheap controller plain and simple
 
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lsiunsuex

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Do you have your reservoir mounted at a higher level than your nozzle? And/or are you injecting in front of the TB or behind it?
I do - looking at the back seat, the reservoir is mounted high up on the driver side rear of the speaker and just above it. And the pump is down in the corner by the floor. Injecting into a C&L throttle body spacer.

I was expecting it to siphon I guess - I read the instructions a dozen times - spent an hour looking for a spot for it under the hood and just couldn't find anywhere I could put it without making a bracket or that would be easy to fill.

Just dumb it doesn't come with the anti siphon solenoid I guess - seams like something everyone should have or use.

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ronemca

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Understood. Well - you were right to expect the siphoning, then, since you have introduced both conditions that create that issue. :frown:

To address your other question...I am battling a mysterious performance issue on my car, so my WMI-related "advice" may not be useful to you. But - FWIW:

I have had my system installed & running flawlessly for about 7 months. Like you, I received only two nozzles; I can't recall for sure, but I seem to remember that the #5 was not one of them. As you know, the #5 is rated @ 375 ml/min, and since the SP chart and my tuner recommended the #5 nozzle based upon my HP, I therefore installed that one. And I am injecting in front of the TB. **I honestly feel that I should be using a nozzle with a rating more like 450 ml/min. or thereabouts, but they don't offer one; the next step after 375 is a whopping 625 (!!) But - whatever.

As for programming, I started with it set to 5/21 and left it there for quite some time. But I too was going through BJ at quite a rate, so I began to experiment a bit. At first I raised only the start point to around 8, and then I put that back to 5 and lowered the stop point to 17 or 18. Neither seemed to make a huge difference for performance, but lately (for several reasons AND since my mysterious performance issue has popped up) I have decided that a good setting is more like 6/17.
 
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lsiunsuex

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Everything came last night. Yesterday morning, I realized I ordered the wrong solenoid - I ordered it with fittings for steel braided, not nylon.

Emailed Snow - see if I could use fittings from Home Depot or Auto Zone (their just quick connect fittings, as you'd find on a refrigerator water line) - they said yes, but it would degrade over time with the methanol.

Got the carbon fiber wing installed; went to go put the new nozzle in. Right or wrong, lol - this is what I did - Pulled the instructions - the black fitting with the arrow on it is a check valve / anti siphon thingy. I ordered an anti siphon solenoid upgrade - so why not just swap them? Moved the quick connect fittings to the new solenoid - wired it up as asked for. Put the #3 nozzle in and went for a drive.

(changed settings and am starting at 8psi and ending at 25psi)

Perfect. No more rough idle. A nice boost in power over the #2. Doesn't want to stall out now at a red light. Pushed it pretty hard on the way to and from picking up dinner - about a 25 minute drive each way. And used an acceptable amount of methanol considering how hard I was pushing it. Last time I made an outing like that, I should of been almost empty by the time I got home. I'm happy, for now, lol...

**I honestly feel that I should be using a nozzle with a rating more like 450 ml/min. or thereabouts, but they don't offer one; the next step after 375 is a whopping 625 (!!) But - whatever.
You could do something like what @Bullrun is doing - use multiple nozzles and spray right into the manifold. That'll be my next upgrade - either buy another manifold, drill and tap it and run hard lines - or just use the C&L manifold spacer and spray into that. 4 100ml nozzles will give you 400ml. Add a 5th 60ml nozzle to a throttle body spacer or where ever you have it tapped and that'll give you 460ml.
 

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Yep - you're absolutely right; there are a few ways to step up the injection volume by adding nozzles. However...

I'm going to leave it alone for now, because of my other issue. Until I figure out what that is it would be imprudent to make radical changes to the rest of the [overall] system.
 

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I do - looking at the back seat, the reservoir is mounted high up on the driver side rear of the speaker and just above it.

m1-jpg.jpg


Lsiunsuex. I would be careful of the interior mounting. Meth can be toxic, corrosive and hard on the optic nerves. Should you be in an accident, you don’t want it splashing on you or a passenger should the tank rupture.
 
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lsiunsuex

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Lsiunsuex. I would be careful of the interior mounting. Meth can be toxic, corrosive and hard on the optic nerves. Should you be in an accident, you don’t want it splashing on you or a passenger should the tank rupture.
I... didn't know that. I thought with the water dilution, it was pretty safe.

Now that I have the upgraded solenoid - maybe it's best to just trunk mount it and keep it away from passengers... The holes in the interior... no one ever sits back there and a little black silicon will fix it, lol...
 

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Speaking of the solenoid, the best place for it (if feasible) is closest to the nozzle. Engine vacuum can suck the fluid out through the nozzle to the point of the check valve/solenoid so if they are installed far back, it'll increase the WMI spray lag as the fluid fills up the emptied out tube first.

Looking forward to your results as I'm hoping that using both the fuel pump pressure and boost will be more accurate than using boost alone. Do you have a data logging device that can log ignition corrections, OAR, boost, fuel pressure, and STFT?
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