MGW install - Cannot get shift linkage bolt out *FIXED and mini-review*

[mikes2017gt]

@MGW

Really need some help, please. I'm installing (or trying to install) my MGW race spec that I've had sitting in my garage since May. Everything went well enough until I got to the linkage bolt.

I cannot get the bolt that holds the shift linkage to come out. The bolt loosens, spins/rises upwards like it's supposed to when you're loosening a bolt, but then it just spins and spins and will not lift out.

I can tighten the bolt back down fully, with the bolt turning normally, not like with that "forcing it/stripped feeling" you get when you're cross-threading a bolt. I really can't turn the bolt with my fingers. If I drop a socket on the bolt and grab the socket, it turns freely. So I don't think it's stripped from the factory, but I guess it is a possibility. :(

It is very difficult to get my hand in there, but I can get my thumb and finger on the bolt and I've tried to lift it out but it won't budge. I have tried grabbing the linkage and twisting and banging it around to try and loosen the bolt. I cannot get two hands into the shifter hole from inside the car and I didn't drop the driveshaft or exhaust...yet.

What might work was if someone grabbed the linkage from under the car and twisted it around while I tried to lift the bolt out from inside the car. I've got a buddy just 5 mins away from me so I guess that's next. There are only a few threads on that bolt and trust me, it's as loosened as it can possibly be, so why isn't it coming out?

It's going to suck if I have to put the stock shifter back together and drop the driveshaft to put it back together.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

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[mikes2017gt]

Well, my idea worked. My buddy sat inside the car and twisted the linkage left/right/front/back while I grabbed/turned the bolt from under the car. There is ZERO chance I could've done this by myself. The MGW shift linkage is already in. Due to the new bushing in the MGW linkage being "poofy" and taking up space where the bolt goes through, you need to push the linkage forward onto the shift knob on the tranny while simultaneously putting the bolt in. Getting the threads to catch was a real PITA too. So two people were also needed to get the MGW linkage on.

I am not sure if dropping the DS and the exhaust would have made any difference with these tasks, But two people were needed in my case.

I tagged my OP pretty extensively, so hopefully someone having the same problem finds this thread. BTW, I searched and did not see any posts regarding the linkage. I can't be the first person to deal with this....

 

[mikes2017gt]

Hey, HoosierDaddy. I guess our posts crossed in the ether. It's fixed. I do not know what was keeping the bolt in there, but I had to grab with my thumb/forefinger and pull up hard while my buddy was moving the linkage around. My fingers are literally bleeding. There was nothing wrong with the bolt. Threads were perfect; I'm VERY HAPPY about that. No clue why the bolt was so tightly jammed in there. Manufacturing tolerances, maybe? Maybe my stock shift linkage's hole was just a thousandth smaller than it should be? Just spitballing.

BTW, I tried getting a screwdriver in there to pry it up, but there's "hump" in the linkage ahead of the bolt and you can't get the angle right in order to get the screwdriver blade under it. This was almost as frustrating as doing my front struts.

But it's fixed. Onto the rest of the install. Got about 3 more hours of daylight left.

 

[mikes2017gt]

It's done. And I'm done. I mean totally spent, I can barely type. "An hour or two" my butt! Took me 9 freaking hours in my 94-degree garage. Pics or it didn't happen! One crappy cell phone pic attached.

Bottom line is that there are a lot of potential "gotchas" with this install. The MGW vids are FANTASTIC and those vids are a part of why I bought an MGW vs. something else. The vids show commitment to the product and great customer service. But, the vids don't tell you everything that could possibly happen. Some people go through hell with the top arm bolt. I had a little trouble, but smashing down the liner/sound absorber mat that lines the tranny tunnel and then yanking on the driveshaft gave me enough room to get the bolt in/out. Getting it BACK IN was actually easier than getting it out. NO idea why, but I am not complaining!

The shifter linkage bolt...I want to write a page of swear words to convey my feelings. I should've just called my buddy right off the bat and asked for help, but I'm a DIY die-hard. DIY means exactly that to me. Don't need any help. I figured if I hammered away at the problem, I'd win eventually. Ah, no. Sometimes you just need help. That was 3 hours of my install, just getting that bolt out. By then I was spent but had to keep going.

A close runner up to the linkage bolt for PITA of The Year is the damn rubber boot, which is NOT on correctly b/c trying to put the shifter back into the tranny tunnel post-boot-attachment is damn difficult and the boot popped off. I half-assed it...it's sorta half on/half off. No finger strength left to try and get it on. Even tried using multiple pairs of needle nosed pliers to stretch/cram the thing onto the groove. But noooooo. All that did was chew up the boot. The multiple sound/heat pads plus the console sorta hold everything down. Not too worried about it.

Mounting the shift ball was like getting the girl onto the bed after she demands that you throw her on the bed and tells you "Tonight, you score, big boy." I was sliding into home plate and there was nothing in my way. LOL!

Lest you think all my complaining indicates I'm not happy: Nope, I'm very happy! The end result is what matters, no matter how painful the journey.

I went for a short drive and so far, it's what I was expecting. NVH went way up vs. stock but that's to be expected from a solid-mount shifter. Now I actually feel connected to the transmission...what a concept for a sports car, right? Ford failed with the stock shifter. They went all minivan mommy with the stock shifter. Very little NVH translates to "Where the hell is 3rd gear?" in a sports car. I won't be resting my hand on the shifter anymore, that's for sure. You're not supposed to do that anyway. The stock shifter was numb, no feedback, no accuracy...it sucks. Not telling you anything you don't already know about the stock POS shifter. Also, as I had hoped, the
MGW shifts are like manipulating a bolt-action-rifle. It's a solid "snick" into gear. Definitely takes more effort to shift now.

Funny thing I didn't consider: I will have to relearn how to drive the damn car b/c now the shifts are shorter, the shift action itself, way more precise, and the knob is a different height/different material. My first few shifts were...unimpressive. LOL! I even said out loud "Holy crap, do you even know how to drive a stick?" But being that I have a long work commute, it shouldn't take but a few days to get used to it.

The actual shift action of the MGW is just laser-precise. It demands your attention and rewards you with speed and accuracy. The stock shifter says "Yeah whatever, 1-2, 4-5...it may go in, it may not but you won't feel a thing either way."

Finally, during this install I discovered that when the dealer replaced my AC evaporator core (2 weeks ago) they broke the heck out of my shift boot/bezel. It's cracked in 4 places. It's beyond even superglue/epoxy. It wasn't seated correctly when I picked up the car, but I figured maybe the console was on crooked, and that was keeping the bezel from seating properly. Knowing I was going to do the MGW install soon, I figured "I'll fix it then." Ah, no. Bezel is all busted. I could take it back and have them deny my claim and say "Ooooh, you replaced the shifter. YOU broke the bezel when you took it off." That's not true, but I'm in a no-win. So I'll buy a new bezel and put it on when it shows up. I can literally just rip the old one out w/o having to remove the console b/c who cares if I break it more?

So that's my install problems/install thread. The MGW shifter itself is worth every penny and then some, IMO. You get what you pay for. All the parts that encompass the shifter are stupidly overbuilt (love it!) and the kit you get with the sound pads, locktite, etc, is very nice and adds value to the product. Well done, MGW!

 

[JOKER M1]

Great info, exactly how I expect it to go which is why I’ve been putting it off. I’m to the point now where the shifter is next/needed on my check list.

 

[mikes2017gt]

Great info, exactly how I expect it to go which is why I’ve been putting it off. I’m to the point now where the shifter is next/needed on my check list.

Hey Joker, I hope my info is helpful. I intended my posts more as an "FYI/heads-up" than a list of complaints. I was dead-tired (understatement) when I wrote them so I know they sound whiny. That's OK in my book....it was a royal freaking PITA.

The MGW videos are EXCELLENT. Both the actual install video, and the one where he's got the transmission on a stand and does the install...that last video gives you a birds-eye view of what's going on/what you're supposed to do. As a first-time Mustang wrencher, it was very helpful for me.

There are three possible trouble spots, but only two show-stoppers:
1. Upper arm bolt (show stopper)
2. Linkage bolt (show stopper)
3. Rubber boot

99% of the problems I'd seen that people experienced were about the upper arm bolt. Mine was difficult to get out, but slid in like "Ooops...well...oh, it's in? Well heck......OK..." The linkage bolt, OTOH, was like trying to broker peace in the Middle East. It simply would not lift out of it's hole. You can't get a screwdriver in there, so forget about a pry bar. In my case, I loosened it and tried and tried to pull up/wiggle as hard as I could and it would not budge. My buddy had to literally bang the stock linkage around while I tried vainly to keep a grip on the bolt with two fingers and pull up. It moved about 1/32" at a time, while my fingers got all smashed up. I expected the bolt to be mangled after all that but it was pristine....looked like a new, unused bolt. Go freaking figure.


The rubber boot just sucks and you may have to live with it being halfway on, but it's not a show stopper.

 

[JOKER M1]

I agree, you did a great job voicing your concerns without complaining or bashing any product. Good thing is that it’s doable meaning I never heard of anyone giving up and leaving the stock shifter installed. Obviously/Maybe not but I thought I saw a video where MGW made the boot install easier. Either way I’ll be doing the install in the near future.

 

[mikes2017gt]

Keep in mind I've only installed a grand total of ONE MGW shifter in my entire life, so I don't exactly have a wide experience base to draw from. LOL!

MGW changed the shifter body so that now the boot can go on before you put the shifter body into the tranny tunnel. In theory, this works great.

However, at least in my install, the shifter body does not/cannot just drop straight down into the tunnel, b/c the upper arm and shift linkage are in the way. You have insert the shifter body into the tunnel sorta cockeyed/tilted and move it around while yanking on the driveshaft to get that last tenth of inch of clearance so the upper arm rod and linkage can go into their respective holes in the shifter body.

Well, while you're moving and banging things around, the boot just pops off. In my case I even unbolted everything and took the shifter out again and tried again, trying to be more careful. Nope. Same thing. Again, this is what happened to me. YMMV.

BTW, dead serious: If you're in the San Antonio or Austin area and can get the boot on properly from inside the car (without removing the shifter), I will drive to you and pay you $100 for your time. PM me if interested.

 

[mikeD4V]

Dropping the mid pipe and driveshaft would've saved you a lot of trouble. Unbolt the front of the midpipe, place it onto your creeper, push the exhaust off it's hangers, and pull the whole catback system out the back by the tips. Next, mark your driveshaft and unbolt the front of the shaft letting it come down. You can then put a jack under the trans mount and unbolt that sucker to lower the trans down. Don't really need to take the bolts completely out unless you have big arms/hands. I got mine in solo, on jack stands, in a few hours like that. Use the jack to get the shaft back up since bench pressing the shaft and starting a bolt is a bit of a bear after you've been wrangling under the car for a little while but you can get clear access like this. I also pulled the stock shifter assembly out as a whole, didn't mess with the spring and pin. The center console comes out as a whole if you start under the arm rest. That will help pull the shifter boot and ring off without snapping the ring retainers. Definitely don't wear a watch during this install haha

 

[BmacIL]

If you're experiencing much NVH, you should verify that you got the boot actually seated onto the shifter (that is a total PITA and my big hands couldn't do it, needed @mindys help). Mine had some noticeable gear noise when it wasn't seated and now only has a hint of it when I'm actually holding the shifter. Otherwise none other than it vibrates (who cares).

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