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US 'Detailing' vs UK 'washing the car'

Kristian87

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Check out YouTube mate and search for obsessed garage. Search through his videos and check out what products he uses. Shame your not on Facebook as there is a huge community from that YouTube channel too.

Exhausts I treat like wheels. If you keep on top of it and clean them every time you do your wheels you may never have to use a metal polish.

Wax I use Meguires liquid wax. It’s easily applied and wipes off. What I will stress is that it also helps using a high quality MF towel. Again check out his videos and he shows you exactly what towel to use and when. I have bought mine from the rag company and it makes a HUGE difference over just basic MF towels.

Brands to look at are
Adams
Meguires
Griots
Chemical guys.

It’s just a minefield. But there is plenty of info online.
Thanks mate, very helpful. Had a quick peek and that youtube channel will keep me busy :lol: quick google as well and can see that there is a uk supplier for adams stuff now - happy days :D
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slowhand99

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hinch

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mengulars black plastic trim sealant and restorer works wonders do it after a wash and it'll bring all the trim back to jet black and remove any stains/runs etc on it.
 

slowhand99

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As above mate
Slims detailing
And prestige car care (?) sell the Adams stuff. Their shampoo is supposed to be the best.

Keep watching those videos mate. Matts set up is something else. If you thought you was obsessed your in for a treat!
You need to update your profile/footer :brokenheart::(
 

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slowhand99

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Anyone got any good products for cleaning the black plastics? I want to keep them from fading and also remove some of the "stains" (dried wax & crap from the doors that leaks out). I have only really seen a spray can type thing but having used one once many years ago, I wouldn't again - messy job and tends to be greasy stuff! Also used an Autoglym trim product, a weird green gel, but didn't really feel it was any good. Any recommendations?
I find that AutoGlym AquaWax which you spray on when drying the car after washing does as good a job on the black plastics as it does on the body and side windows. You have to experiment to find the best towel to do this with, especially to avoid streaks on Magnetic (my 'other' car is Magnetic) but it keeps things shiny for me between proper sessions.
 
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Charlie Brown

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I had my car fully detailed with ceramic coat etc by www.flawlessdetailing.co.uk in Coventry and now use snow foam and 2 bucket method to clean it myself. I’m very impressed after 6 months of ownership no swirl marks and the car just looks brilliant. Also, when it rains the water just runs away and the car stays clean looking for literally weeks on end. I’m very impressed so far.
 

MikeR

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I find that AutoGlym AquaWax which you spray on when dying the car after washing does as good a job on the black plastics as it does on the body and side windows. You have to experiment to find the best towel to do this with, especially to avoid streaks on Magnetic (my 'other' car is Magnetic) but it keeps things shiny for me between proper sessions.
Same /\.

I find Autoglym's Rapid Detailer does a good job on black plastics if you are between washes.
 

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Kristian87

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That's right, I'm bringing this thread back :muscle:

Someone inspired me to revive this one. I've learnt an awful lot since the last time I posted my detailing process (https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/us-detailing-vs-uk-washing-the-car.25175/page-3) and I wanted to share it, in the hope that it's useful for some of you...

Where to start?! I guess I should preface this by saying that this is just my own personal detailing methodology, it's not neccesarily the best way to do things but I like to think I've got good methods, and I've built up a good collection of tools & products that I'm really satisfied with and enjoy using. I'm not in to the hi tech ceramic coatings, and I can't tell you much about polishing so I won't be mentioning those. I enjoy the process of cleaning so ceramic coatings are overkill for me, and if you look after your paintwork you won't need to polish it!

Special mention to "Adams Polishes" products. One of the big players in the USA car cleaning scene and it truly is great stuff. Anyone who follows me on Instagram will know of my obsession lol. But for me, I found a lot of benefit in knowing there was one place where I could get literally everything I needed, and it's backed up by some excellent tutorial/demo videos on their website & youtube channel. They have a great forum too. discount code & website in my signature...

Worth starting I think, some "golden rules" that would be my tips to anyone getting in to this crazy hobby;

- the key for a good wash IMO is to remove and loosen as much dirt as possible without touching the car
- use the "2 bucket" method, to ensure the water/suds you are spreading all over the car are as clean as possible and free of debris. do the wheels with a separate bucket as well.
- dedicated wheel cleaning tools are essential for the stock GT wheels!
- invest in good quality microfibre towels. Yes you can get 10 for ÂŁ5 in Halford but they're no good. For your paintwork, whether your applying detail spray, removing polish, wax, you'll find that the better quality mf towels make the work a lot easier and will yield better results. trust me! Cheapo mf towels are good for the dirty jobs sure - exhaust tips, wiping down trim etc.
- A good drying towel is another good investment - anyone who lives in a hard water area; they are worth every penny!

So, here goes. What i'll do is list ALL of my steps, generally in the order I do them, but bear in mind I don't do everything every time. I'll try to mention specific products where I can.

Exterior

Wheels

- Tires. Got black wheels? You'll need black tires with that! Not dark grey tires, black. I'll get to the dressing later but I use a "tire & rubber" cleaner - probably once every 2/3 washes. After spraying down - either normal hose or pressure washer if you have one, spray the cleaner directly on to the rubber. Let it sit for 10 secs or so, then agitate with a small brush - I have a trim/interior brush that I use. You will see all the dirt where you brush the tires, hose it off, done.
- Wheels. I use "wheel woolies" excellent (actually, essential) for the GT wheels. Fill a bucket with water & add your shampoo of choice. Pressure wash down to get rid of the dust/dirt etc. Good spray with a decent wheel cleaner. Let sit for 30 secs or so, then go at it. Spray the wheel woolies with wheel cleaner if you're feeling adventurous. (https://www.slimsdetailing.co.uk/wheel-woolies-pack-of-3-with-handle-grips.html). I also have an angled wheel woolie - that's good for getting in to the barrels of the wheels, although that's only something I've done once! For the wheels themselves, I use the tiny brush to get in all the corners. The medium one to get in all the "triangles" and then the big boy to get the bigger gaps and the face of the wheel. Same little brush I used for the tires, I use for the lug nuts - good for the little gaps.
- wheel arches. angled wheel woolie needed here, especially if you are lowered. I spray the hose in there, then a good helping of some all purpose cleaner, then brush with the wheel woolie. hose off again.

Exhaust

The wheel cleaning kit is good for the exhausts too. Just a spray of all purpose cleaner, then one of the wheel woolies to give it a brush. hose off. A metal polish works well to add extra shine and remove any stubborn marks/stuck on dirt - apply with an old mf towel, buff with another, you'll be surprised how well this works.

Wash Method

As I said, remove as much dirt as you can without touching...

- Pressure washer the whole car to remove any "loose" dirt. Don't go mad - just knock off the big stuff, this is prep for the next step.
- snow foam. This is by no means essential but something I do every wash. You'll need a "foam lance" attached to a pressure washer and some good "pre wash"/"snow foam" or shampoo you can use in snow foam lances. Cover the entire car. and let it sit for up to 5 mins. Theory is that this will further loosen any dirt which you can then hose off. You can get foam sprayers that work with a regular hose.
- A note on "grit guards" - Grit guards are another addition to your wash buckets that reduce introducing dirt dragged from the car back on to your brush, then back on to the car! Grit guards essentially stop the water in the bottom of the bucket (where all the dirt settles) from moving around too much and ensures it stays there. I actually use "cyclone dirt traps" which are slightly different. Basically a plastic insert for the bottom of the bucket with hundreds of tiny funnels, theory being that dirt falls through the funnels and won't come back up. Some people will recommend using both, but we're getting extreme now. Up to you.
- time to wash. after having emptied your wheel bucket - fill with water again - no shampoo; your "rinse" bucket. fill the other bucket with your shampoo of choice and water. (I use Adams Polishes "ultra foam" - it's ultra foamy!)
- My preference is to wash a panel at a time; the bonnet, the front window, the drivers door etc, then spray down with the hose after each one. This reduces water marks, or rather; soap marks. especially if you are working in the sun. Be generous with your foamy suds, be thorough too. Nothing worse than discovering a patch you missed after you've dried the car!
- remember to rinse your dirty wash mitt in the rinse bucket between each pass.

Drying

- A good quality drying towel is essential for anyone that wants to avoid the dreaded watermarks. I was in awe when I used this towel https://www.prestigecarcareshop.com...fiber/products/adams-ultra-plush-drying-towel yes, it's a lot but it performs so well and really is a pleasure to use.
- optional tip; give the wet panel a quick spray with some detail spray before you dry it - this has worked really well for me in the past - great way to avoid watermarks. Although it does mean you go through the detail spray rather quickly.
Wheels. After drying the bodywork, you'll probably have the joy of a few watermarks on the otherwise clean black wheels. I have a sample bottle of detail spray which gives a nice concentrated mist when you spray it on - again another little optional tip. It helps remove watermarks as you dry the wheels. I actually use 2 old drying towels (Autoglm) to dry the wheels. One to get the majority of the water off - just roughly. Then another one to rub each surface dry. Yes - it's time consuming but worth it.

Claying

I'm sure a lot of you have used it before, but for those that haven't - it's a vital step that comes before any polishing or adding any form of protection. Plenty of vids online about using a clay bars so I won't go in to the method. I personally do this every 2-3 months I would say. You can also use clay on glass - good for those stubborn watermarks.

Glass

Probably the thing I struggle with most. I'll do this right after drying (that includes drying the windows). Worth having 2 dedicated glass cleaning cloths - spray with glass cleaner and wipe on with one cloth - this cloth will become wet, then buff off/dry with another.

Finishing Touches...

Paintwork

I have 3 products in my arsenal. Another favourite is "H20 Guard & Gloss" by Adams Polishes. Worth a try.

- paint sealant. This one goes first - if you want to layer protection you can. Before I murdered that pheasant a couple of months ago, I added this after claying and then wax over the top - best the car has ever looked. Sealant generally gives you the best protection and will last a long time, but won't necessarily give you the "pop" and visual satisfaction that wax will.
- H20 Guard & Gloss. What makes this stuff great is that you can use it on a wet car. You literally add a layer of protection as you dry, and believe me - the protection is brilliant. You can also apply to a dry car with a slightly different method. Goes on glass too.
- Wax. My most recent wash included finishing with a paste wax (Americana Paste Wax) - following a clay of course! I've used some really chalky waxes in the past so look around and read reviews. I reccomend spending upwards of ÂŁ30 for a decent wax. The one I use goes on really well, not at all chalky and comes off super easy. Shine looks fucking incredible! Perhaps not the most protective of waxes but considering the look it gives and how easy it is to use, I highly recommend this one.
- Liquid wax and a glaze are other good options but I haven't used them so I will not comment.

Trim

- poorly maintained trim can spoil a nice clean car! Generally a case of wiping on to clean trim with a mf towel and then buffing to make sure you have a nice even coating. I used Autogylm trim dressing about a year ago which was like a green gel, can't recommend it. Adams Polishes "Vinyl, Rubber & Trim" dressing on the other hand was great. Didn't particularly darken the trim like some dressings will do, but it wasn't at all greasy and does add good protection to the plastic trim, looked real nice too. Yup, you can use this on tires too of course - but I haven't done so yet.

Tires

- I previously used, and swore by, Meguiairs tire gel. It's a thick purple gel and does leave a nice deep, glossy black shine on the tires and adds good protection/water resistance. However, it is greasy stuff, and was a little on the messy side to work with. Now use Adams tire gel which is more of a liquid and is slightly less glossy, more satin I guess. I use a specific round tire dressing applicator that works really well well - I much prefer the finish with this stuff.

That takes care of the exterior pretty much. I'm sure i've forgot something so this post will no doubt be edited soon! Tired now, so I'll come back to it :)

Interior

***Coming soon***
 

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Jimboy2

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Awsome write up mate. One thing I would note, in your wash stage if your using a Ph neutral soap like Adams, it’s probably better to let that sit on the paint instead of rinsing each panel off. You have a higher chance of water spots doing it that way. Although it’s obviously working for you. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
 

Kristian87

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Awsome write up mate. One thing I would note, in your wash stage if your using a Ph neutral soap like Adams, it’s probably better to let that sit on the paint instead of rinsing each panel off. You have a higher chance of water spots doing it that way. Although it’s obviously working for you. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
Thanks mate. Good point actually - it's one of those things that I've done for years because it worked well for me in the past. I'll give it a go and rinse at the end, anything that will save me time is a win, I take bloody ages lol
 

Kristian87

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For anyone in need of supplies, my favorite detailing place (https://www.prestigecarcareshop.com/) selling Adams Polishes, has a 15% off code for the next few days - "BIG15". I swear by this stuff - thought I would share the code here in case anyone wants to use it :like:
 

Kristian87

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Oh yes. This one is making a come back! Thanks to the unusually pleasant February weather, my 2019 detailing got kicked off yesterday with my very first engine bay detail! Not the Mustang but my ~8 year old Fiesta - which had never been cleaned. Before/after pics below inc the process I went through. Actually turned out to be very enjoyable & the results were probably better than expected.

Worth a mention as well that detailing is becoming more & more of a hobby for me, so this thread will be a poppin' this year. Tentatively penciled in a bit of a training session next weekend with 2 lads in need of some education (that's me training them!)

Engine bay detailing process

Tools & products

All Purpose Cleaner (I use Adams Polishes "Eco APC")
Trim Dressing (Adams Polishes "VRT" - Vinyl Rubber & Trim)
Foam applicator block/applicator stick (looks like a small foam paint brush)
Wheel cleaning brushes; soft hog hair brush, longer chemical resistant brush (blue end), shorter hard brush, small wheel woolie (all in the photo)
2 x cheapo microfiber towels
Hoover, air blaster (optional)
Hose (not the pressure washer!), trigger attachment set to "mist".

Steps

1. Brush & hoover - aim is to free up all of the loose dirt & suck it up. You'd be surprised how much difference this makes
2. Prep the engine bay. Few components to cover up here - obviously different for each engine bay. I covered the alternator, the top of the battery and about 3 exposed wires - just wrapped in plastic bags, and sandwich bags worked well for the smaller areas. Don't have to be fully water tight, just secure enough so the areas don't get drenched!
3. The bonnet - couple of things I did here; gave the heat shield carpet thing a good hoover. Then wet the painted metal areas, spray APC, agitate with the soft brush, then rinse off
4. Time to clean - give the engine bay a good rinse. Use your judgment here - doesn't need a full soaking but you want to get all of the surfaces wet (well, you don't have to but I did). Spray the APC over all of the exposed areas and get brushing. I rinsed as I went along. I also rinsed off the brushes mid way through & then sprayed the brushes with APC again to go over any areas a second time. Rinse off, aiming to get rid of any product
5. Dry - this is where an air blaster really comes in handy, else dry with a microfibre towel.
6. Once dry, wipe up any remaining areas with a mf towel - inevitably there will be spots where the brushing didn't remove the dirt, the mf will take care of this
7. Use the second mf towel to dry the underside of the bonnet - the painted bits. This will ensure a nice clean finish on the paint work
8. Apply dressing - as per the bottle instructions - I apply with a block/small applicator "brush", wipe in with the second mf towel to level off the finish
9. courtesy blow dry - always a good idea to dry some more if you can!
10. stand back, admire work :)

Photos

IMG_9184.jpg


Before

IMG_9178.jpg


After

IMG_9192.jpg
IMG_9200.jpg
IMG_9201.jpg
 
 




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