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Front end suspension clunking

NightmareMoon

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As this thread covers, you can get clunking noises from a number of spots in the front suspension.

Strut top nuts
Swaybar endlinks
Strut to spindle bolts
etc.

The frontend should not clunk, and if it is clunking, that's a sign something is not right. If can be a sign of a major issue or something minor. Best to have it checked out.
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LarsenGrind

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Still have the issue with mine. The only thing I hate about my car. Gonna take all of it apart (coilovers) and do it all again. Will there be any difference (to the endlinks bushings and such) If I tighten the stuff when the car is on the ground, compaired to doing it all on jackstands. I mean there is 3-4 inches of difference between the two metods.
 

K-Roll302

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New endlinks didn't solve the problem for me. Time to do the center strut nut and strut->spindle bolts next. I can now hear it from both driver and passenger sides faintly. No one's commented on the noise so it seems I'm the only one who can hear it; which is annoying, but good.
 

rickdrews5

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Basically same issue here, car has been making front end clunking noise since new, has gotten worse now that it has 5k on it. Like some others have said only hear it when backing out of driveway, going over uneven bumps, 'clunk clunk.' Dealer said could not replicate, might be normal for PP1 suspension setuup (?). Had an M car with a strut tower brace and anytime I would hear this type of noise it was because the brace had worked loose, had brace tightened on this car and no luck. Going to check it all out today and appreciate any info the group can pass along.
 

K-Roll302

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I actually haven't checked my strut brace yet. Perhaps I'll give it a look while doing other things.
 

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NiteMareGT

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Sorry to revive this ole thread but just lowered my 2019 PP1 with Accelatec springs and Maximum Motorsports CCPs (national chain did the work) and I have the god awful clunking on the front driver side. They tried repeatedly to find/fix but after having my car 3 days they still couldn’t find the problem and gave up. My only other alternative now is to take it to the dealership because this noise has to go!
 

Dokken42

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I wanted to provide an update as this post ultimately helped out.

TL-DR it for me it was the 21mm nut and 10mm post at the top of the strut tower. Tightening this completely resolved the clunking sound. You need either a special strut tower socket, offset wrench, or do what I did and use an angle grinder to cut a window in a 21mm socket and use a 10mm wrench..

One dealer thought it the shock and was going to charge me $500 to replace it. This would have fixed it by virtue of totally replacing the nut.... and the shock. Another dealer was convinced it was brake pads... which it also wasn't

Feel free to contact me if you need assistance. This post saved me a lot of money.

P.S. The reason the nut loosened up is unknown. I have a sneaking suspicion parts are either prone to stretching or the threadlocker partially failed.

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West TX GT

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I also have the clunking. My car is a non-PP and the only thing added to the front is the BMR K-brace. I am highly suspect of the oversized holes allowing a shift as stated earlier in this thread. I have a big pile of suspension bits coming and I will go over everything while I'm in there. I have the Steeda camber plates on the way, do they reuse part # 5A306 or replace that part?
 

86pagt

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Lowered on BMR min drop springs and a BMR 4pt brave on my PP1. I have developed a light clunk when pulling in to my garage at slow speed. There is a slight bump going from my driveway to garage floor. I also hear it when lightly applying brakes at very slow speed. Doesn’t do it in reverse or going above 8mph. I have retorqued all upper strut bolts, caliper bolts, sway bar end links, and all 4 BMR brave bolts, retorqued wheels space and wheels when finished. Ensured springs were seated properly. still have it and still annoying as this car has been lowered for over 7k miles and now this just started. Might remove the 4pt brave and see if it goes away.
 

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errwik

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I had read this thread to figure out my clunking. For me it had nothing to do with the items mentioned it was the crap control arms that the last owner had installed. I went ahead and replaced them with the FP ones and I do not have a pp car. Clunking is gone.
 
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Nuked

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Lowered on BMR min drop springs and a BMR 4pt brave on my PP1. I have developed a light clunk when pulling in to my garage at slow speed. There is a slight bump going from my driveway to garage floor. I also hear it when lightly applying brakes at very slow speed. Doesn’t do it in reverse or going above 8mph. I have retorqued all upper strut bolts, caliper bolts, sway bar end links, and all 4 BMR brave bolts, retorqued wheels space and wheels when finished. Ensured springs were seated properly. still have it and still annoying as this car has been lowered for over 7k miles and now this just started. Might remove the 4pt brave and see if it goes away.
Ball joint bad on one of the tension links. I had the exact same issue. You won't be able to feel the play in the ball joint until you remove it from the spindle.
 

86pagt

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Ball joint bad on one of the tension links. I had the exact same issue. You won't be able to feel the play in the ball joint until you remove it from the spindle.
thanks for the reply. I ordered 2 new steeda tension links this morning before I seen your post. I was thinking about that but it currently only has 20k on it. I figured screw it im gonna order a set and now reading your reply I think this may fix it.
 

Nuked

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thanks for the reply. I ordered 2 new steeda tension links this morning before I seen your post. I was thinking about that but it currently only has 20k on it. I figured screw it im gonna order a set and now reading your reply I think this may fix it.
Mine were perfectly fine, 35k miles on car. I took it to a shop when I was in Florida for work and they somehow trashed the ball joint. They should have not even had to touch it, but alas they did something.
 

86pagt

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Ball joint bad on one of the tension links. I had the exact same issue. You won't be able to feel the play in the ball joint until you remove it from the spindle.
So I replaced both tension links with ones from Steeda and it’s as good as new.
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