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How to disable the Active Noise Control

Radiation Joe

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Hmmm. That post says to change the digit from "A" (ANC enabled) to "8" (ANC disabled). This is different from other instructions I've seen saying to change the "A" to "0", which worked for my car.
I just performed this mod yesterday. My adjustment was from xAxx to x8xx. Worked. My understanding of the change is to subtract 2 from whatever value is found. So if your original value was x2xx, then you would change to x0xx. Could you have originally been x2xx?
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TorqueMan

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I just performed this mod yesterday. My adjustment was from xAxx to x8xx. Worked. My understanding of the change is to subtract 2 from whatever value is found. So if your original value was x2xx, then you would change to x0xx. Could you have originally been x2xx?
I don't think so. I was very careful to double check all numbers; both to make sure I was on the 727- line, and to make sure I was changing the correct digit in the series. I know for certain the system was disabled because I heard a thump from the subwoofer when I wrote the change back to the computer, and normal whooshing sound you hear when you turn the ignition on without starting the car was gone. When driving after changing the car was eerily quiet. Just to be sure I had done it correctly I went back and changed the "0" back to "A" and re-enabled the system. I again heard the thump from the subwoofer, when writing the values, and the whooshing sound and fake engine noise were back.

I wonder if "A" is enabled and changing it to any other digit is disabled.
 
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MakStang

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@TorqueMan it’s definitely A-2=8. If you have an A you should change it to 8 if you want to disable the ANC. If you have a 2 at that position, then you change it to 0. Maybe you have disabled something else?
 

Radiation Joe

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I just changed to x0xx from x8xx. I got back fake engine sound and think I lost active noise control. Changed back to x8xx and lost fake engine sound and pretty sure ANC came back on.

For clarification: My objective is to turn off fake engine sound. I don't have a modified exhaust or sound system mods, so I'm really not interested in defeating ANC.

I may be wrong about what is going on with ANC, but I definitely lost fake engine sound going from xAxx to x8xx.
 
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MakStang

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Don’t change values randomly, you may brick your ecu. I had a spreadsheet somewhere that shows what all these values do. I will try to find it and post it here.
 

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TorqueMan

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@TorqueMan it’s definitely A-2=8. If you have an A you should change it to 8 if you want to disable the ANC. If you have a 2 at that position, then you change it to 0. Maybe you have disabled something else?
Nope, I'm positive the fake engine noises were disabled. As I mentioned, I heard a thump from the subwoofer when writing the values back to the computer, and the car becomes eerily quiet when driving--absolutely no fake engine noises (my exhaust is stock, so I can't really hear it at all).
 
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MakStang

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Nope, I'm positive the fake engine noises were disabled. As I mentioned, I heard a thump from the subwoofer when writing the values back to the computer, and the car becomes eerily quiet when driving--absolutely no fake engine noises (my exhaust is stock, so I can't really hear it at all).
In this thread, we are not looking for a way to disable the fake engine noises (better known as the Engine Sound Enhancement or ESE) but rather for a way to disable the ANC. The deactivation of the ANC and the ESE is done by changing different values. I have deactivated the ANC but still have the ESE. Maybe deactivating the ESE is what you need for your subwoofer @TorqueMan (although I doubt), but those looking to get rid of the drone of an aftermarket exhaust have to deactivate the ANC, and this is done by changing the values I described above. Maybe someone with knowledge on hex numbers can chime in and explain this.

Take a look at the following spreadsheet. Go to the ACM tab. Although this is for the F150, it also applies to the S550. This will help you understand 100% what is going on. I know, it was confusing for me too at first, but I discussed this over the m6g forum thoroughly and it was explained to me through this spreadsheet. I hope this will help you all get the idea.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...iVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=338817466

Let me advise you once again to NOT change values randomly, as you may brick your ECU...
 
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MakStang

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Here is a spreadsheet that says to use x0xx. I don't know what to think now. Oh well. I'm happy with my current set-up.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/modifying-as-built-data-guide.61773/page-90#post-1747876
This is EXACTLY my point @Radiation Joe ! If you read the description in the spreadsheet in your post, you will find out that by replacing this digit with a "0" you disable the Fake Engine Noises (aka Engine Sound Enhancement or ESE), not the ANC.

Please take a look at the spreadsheet that I posted in my comment above and I am sure that you will get it ;)

The only reason I insist on this is because I don't want other people to be confused. I hope it's clear now.
 

TorqueMan

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In this thread, we are not looking for a way to disable the fake engine noises (better known as the Engine Sound Enhancement or ESE) but rather for a way to disable the ANC.
I disagree with this. The ANC is meant to cancel out noise at frequencies between 30Hz and 180Hz, so it seems to me leaving it on will actually help to MUTE exhaust drone in that frequency range. That's it's stated purpose: to reduce exhaust, engine, wind, etc. noise the driver and passengers hear. The ESE adds to cabin noise and has the potential of resonating with the exhaust system when the exhaust note is at the same frequencies as the ESE.

The deactivation of the ANC and the ESE is done by changing different values. I have deactivated the ANC but still have the ESE. Maybe deactivating the ESE is what you need for your subwoofer @TorqueMan (although I doubt),
I only mentioned the thump of the subwoofer as a way to tell that I had actually made a change to the ACM. I could hear the thump when I saved the changed value.

Take a look at the following spreadsheet. Go to the ACM tab. Although this is for the F150, it also applies to the S550. This will help you understand 100% what is going on. I know, it was confusing for me too at first, but I discussed this over the m6g forum thoroughly and it was explained to me through this spreadsheet. I hope this will help you all get the idea.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...iVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=338817466

Let me advise you once again to NOT change values randomly, as you may brick your ECU...
It appears setting the digit to "0" disables the ANC and tells the computer there are no front tweeters, while changing it to "A" turns off the ANC without affecting the tweeter setting. I didn't notice a difference in the way the stereo system sounded when I had the digit set to "0," but I'm going to test it to see if it turns the tweeters off.

I don't see a way to turn off ESE and ANC independently of each other as you say you have. You said you have the ANC off with the ESE on. What code did you use to do that?
 

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MakStang

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In 727-01-01 xxxx x*xx xx, I went from A (front tweeters and chime strategy present / ANC present) to 8 (front tweeters and chime strategy present / ANC absent). I probably still have the ESE on, because my tweeters/chime strategy are activated. If you put a "0" there, then you have the ANC, the tweeters and the chime strategy deactivated and maybe this is why you don't have the ESE (aka fake engine noise) on.

In other words, what you did may have deactivated the ANC and the ESE simultaneously, but now your tweeters may not be functional (?)
 

TorqueMan

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In 727-01-01 xxxx x*xx xx, I went from A (front tweeters and chime strategy present / ANC present) to 8 (front tweeters and chime strategy present / ANC absent). I probably still have the ESE on, because my tweeters/chime strategy are activated. If you put a "0" there, then you have the ANC, the tweeters and the chime strategy deactivated and maybe this is why you don't have the ESE (aka fake engine noise) on.

In other words, what you did may have deactivated the ANC and the ESE simultaneously, but now your tweeters may not be functional (?)
The way I read this spreadsheet, the digit in question affects four options:
  • Front tweeters (present/absent)
  • Chime strategy (North American/CIMCA*)
  • ANC (present/absent)
  • USB (present/absent)
I don't know how you are concluding there is a way to control ANC and ESE independently of each other. The heading for the section of the spreadsheet dealing with this digit lists one of the options affected as ANC (fake engine noise), which seems to imply these two features are linked; they are both either on or off. As you note, the data also says having the digit set to "0" disables the tweeters. I tested this on my car yesterday and it does not; my tweeters work with the digit set to A or 0 (I didn't test any other settings), which makes me question the accuracy of the data. I know for a fact the fake engine noise (ESE) is off with the digit set to "0" on my car, but I don't know of any way to determine if the noise canceling system (ANC) is also off. I'm going to further test today to see of ESE is off with the digit set to 8 (didn't have time yesterday).

This spreadsheet originally came from the F-150 forum, but it has been assumed to be applicable to the Mustang as well. Perhaps this isn't entirely accurate.


*I don't know what CIMCA means, and Google doesn't return anything relevant.
 
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MakStang

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I sent you a PM about that, but I post my reply here as well.

Let me start by confirming that if you set the digit to 8 ESE will be on - I checked that by switching map slots.

Let me now explain how I did that. I am Adam tuned (I have the unlimited tune) and I asked him to prepare several tunes for me: one for 93 oct (tune #1), one for 91 oct (tune #2), one economy map (tune #3) and one valet map (tune #4). He set up my tune in a way that I can switch from one tune map to the other without having to flash my ECU with the Accessport each time. He set up 4 map slots (from 1 to 4 in the order described above), so that I can switch from one map slot to the other using a combination of buttons along with the + and - cruise control buttons on my steering wheel. I can do this on the fly - there no need to connect the Accessport. When I switch to a map slot, I can see its assigned number on my tachometer: 1000 rpm is map slot #1, 2000 rpm is map slot #2, etc. As I switch map slots I can hear the fake engine sounds assigned to the different rpms, so as I move from slot #1 (1000 rpm) to slot #4 (4000 rpm) the sound changes from a lower to a higher frequency. This is how I know that the ESE is on when you set the digit to 8. Take a look at this YouTube video and you will understand what I am talking about:



ANC works exactly like noise cancelling headphones - by producing sounds of the adequate frequencies in order to reduce unwanted noise. In the Mustang the sounds are produced through the sound system (speakers) and it is made to work with the stock parts (e.g. exhaust) and not with a loud aftermarket exhaust (such as the MBRP Race exhausts). When an aftermarket loud exhaust drones inside the cabin, the ANC tries to cancel the noise, but the frequencies produced are completely off, because the ANC is made to work with the stock parts. As a result the sound system creates frequencies that resonate inside the cabin and in combination with the exhaust they sound terrible. I got rid of this terrible drone by switching the ANC off (by changing A to 8 in this particular block). But as I described above the ESE is still on.

Keep in mind that I never tried setting the digit to 0, as I only care about getting rid of my exhaust drone; so changing A to 8 did the job for me. I don't really care about turning off the ESE as it doesn't bother me. I can certainly help you or other people figure this out, but I probably know as much as you do.

I hope this is clear, as I have no other way to explain it...
 
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Radiation Joe

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First, I'd like to apologize for adding to the confusion about ESE vs ANC. Perhaps I can contribute some useful information. I can confirm that x8xx disables ANC in a car that was originally xAxx (mine). My wife confirmed this for me last night when she commented that she heard additional road noise in the cabin compared to how quiet the car normally is going down the highway. She was unaware of my FORscan shenanigans.
I reset ACM module 727-01-01 to x0xx this morning. My front tweeters still function. It is apparent that the F-150 spreadsheet cannot be relied upon 100 percent, but I still think it is a good reference. I'll reserve comment on this change's effect on ESE and ANC.

Thanks to MakStang and TorqueMan for your help.
 

TorqueMan

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I sent you a PM about that, but I post my reply here as well.
Ok, I don't want to keep answering both, so let's just keep this discussion public.

Let me start by confirming that if you set the digit to 8 ESE will be on - I checked that by switching map slots...When I switch to a map slot, I can see its assigned number on my tachometer: 1000 rpm is map slot #1, 2000 rpm is map slot #2, etc. As I switch map slots I can hear the fake engine sounds assigned to the different rpms, so as I move from slot #1 (1000 rpm) to slot #4 (4000 rpm) the sound changes from a lower to a higher frequency. This is how I know that the ESE is on when you set the digit to 8. Take a look at this YouTube video and you will understand what I am talking about:
Roger that; this is how I understood the fake engine noise (ESE) to work. The problem, though, is that you keep distinguishing between ANC and ESE; there is no provision to enable/disable these two systems independently of each other using the data in the spreadsheet. According to the spreadsheet, the ANC (fake engine noise) should be disabled with the digit set to 8.

ANC works exactly like noise cancelling headphones - by producing sounds of the adequate frequencies in order to reduce unwanted noise. In the Mustang the sounds are produced through the sound system (speakers) and it is made to work with the stock parts (e.g. exhaust) and not with a loud aftermarket exhaust (such as the MBRP Race exhausts). When an aftermarket loud exhaust drones inside the cabin, the ANC tries to cancel the noise, but the frequencies produced are completely off, because the ANC is made to work with the stock parts.
I think you have a fundamental misunderstanding of how noise cancelling systems work. Click here for a good discussion. The ANC system does not broadcast pre-recorded sounds, that's what the ESE does. The ESE system broadcasts pre-recorded engine noise through the car's speakers. The ANC system listens for noise in a specific range (which I believe is between 30Hz and 180Hz) using the microphone in the cabin and cancels out only what it hears. The ANC doesn't generate any noise not first heard by the mic in the cabin. Assuming it is functioning properly, the ANC system cannot make any noise louder. I suppose it's possible that by canceling out lower frequencies higher frequencies might become more noticeable for some; everyone's ears are different.

This jibes with stories from people who install aftermarket woofers in their Mustangs and have trouble with the ANC. Using the mic in the cabin, the ANC "hears" the sound produced by the aftermarket woofer as "noise" and attempts to cancel it out using the car's speakers. This pits the car speakers against the aftermarket subwoofer, which results in all sorts of strange behavior. The solution many use to "fix" this problem is to disconnect the cabin microphone, which has the effect of disabling the ANC. Since the ANC no longer "hears" anything from the disconnected mic it no longer produces any counter noise. This solves the problem of the two speaker systems fighting each other out, but also means you'll perceive more noise (engine, exhaust, road, wind, etc.) in the cabin.

I got rid of this terrible drone by switching the ANC off (by changing A to 8 in this particular block). But as I described above the ESE is still on. Keep in mind that I never tried setting the digit to 0, as I only care about getting rid of my exhaust drone; so changing A to 8 did the job for me. I don't really care about turning off the ESE as it doesn't bother me. I can certainly help you or other people figure this out, but I probably know as much as you do.
Based on the data in the spreadsheet, setting the digit to 8="FT present & CS: North American & ANC absent & USB absent." The column header says "FT" is front tweeter; "CS" is chime strategy; "ANC" is fake engine noise (it doesn't define "USB"). I'm betting you disabled the ESE (fake engine noise) by setting the digit to 8. I also suspect that setting the digit to any value that equals "ANC absent" disables both the ANC system AND the ESE system, which would explain why Radiation Joe's wife perceives more road noise with the digit set to 8. I suspect the ESE functions in some sort of test mode while you are activating map slots with your AP. You can test my hypothesis by activating your map slots with the digit set to "0." I believe you will still hear the fake engine noise even though you will have disabled ESE in the computer. I'm going to test whether ESE is disabled in my car with the digit set to 8. I know for a fact it's disabled when set to 0.
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