2018 GT track use

[dmann]

Hello everyone,
First post and thought I'd get right to the point.
I am looking seriously at a 2018 GT and want to know what mods would be needed to track this car about 10 days a year e.g. oil and trans cooler?
What else?

I have read about the PP1/2 but really don't want to pay the extra $$. I can get a base GT at a good price but when i search for the PP cars they try to get list price (plus the PP) for the car so I'd rather get a better deal on a base one and mod it to deal with the track.

I really haven't looked at all the track oriented parts available but would imagine that it's plenty.

Oh, one more thing..will the new A10 hold up to track use?

David

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[wildcatgoal]

PP1 is still a good deal as you get Brembos, extra bracing, a bigger radiator. You can add even better brakes and the rest but you'll pay notably more. You can skip magnaride if you plan on getting coilovers or upgrading the shocks and springs. I'd get the PP1 unless you want to build a race car with like Wilwood or Stoptech brakes and what not.

 

[dmann]

appreciate the feedback! I'm reading as much as I can.

I think I am watching a RA video of you.

 

[JohnD]

GTs come with an engine oil cooler standard, it uses the radiator. Whether you need diff cooler or not depends on how you drive. If your sessions are less than 20 minutes and you're not balls out you will be fine, but heed Ford's advice on frequency of fluid changes, page 12 in the '16 owners manual. If you're over 20 minutes 10/10ths you probably should get at least a diff cooler. Trans coolers for the MT82 are a tough nut, it will be DIY I think, and if you're driving that hard you probably should just bite the bullet and put in a Tremec with a pump/cooler, much stronger gearbox.

An automatic other than a DCT is not going to be happy on the track for long I expect, they generate a lot of extra heat that has to be gotten rid of. I'd never have one, to me road courses are meant for manuals. YMMV.

PP1 is a bargain for what you get, Torsen and 6pot Brembos alone are worth it, though now you have to take the 301 A package as well and that just adds needless weight. This car is already too porky, more weight is not good. PP1 also has a much bigger rad than standard GT which helps keep it cooler on track, both water and engine oil.

 

[dmann]

GTs come with an engine oil cooler standard, it uses the radiator. Whether you need diff cooler or not depends on how you drive. If your sessions are less than 20 minutes and you're not balls out you will be fine, but heed Ford's advice on frequency of fluid changes, page 12 in the '16 owners manual. If you're over 20 minutes 10/10ths you probably should get at least a diff cooler. Trans coolers for the MT82 are a tough nut, it will be DIY I think, and if you're driving that hard you probably should just bite the bullet and put in a Tremec with a pump/cooler, much stronger gearbox.

An automatic other than a DCT is not going to be happy on the track for long I expect, they generate a lot of extra heat that has to be gotten rid of. I'd never have one, to me road courses are meant for manuals. YMMV.

PP1 is a bargain for what you get, Torsen and 6pot Brembos alone are worth it, though now you have to take the 301 A package as well and that just adds needless weight. This car is already too porky, more weight is not good. PP1 also has a much bigger rad than standard GT which helps keep it cooler on track, both water and engine oil.

Thanks for the feedback.
My last car had a tremec and was bullet proof so I'll stick with the manual.

I really like the PP1 package but hate that the dealers try to get close to retail on the car because of the package. Do you know what the average deals are on these cars? Also, didn't they offer the PP1 in 2017?

 

[Nick]

Look up "Serpent Stangs" on YouTube or [MENTION=7179]SVTDSM[/MENTION] on here. He just tracked his 2018 PP1 last weekend.

 

[JohnD]

Thanks for the feedback.
My last car had a tremec and was bullet proof so I'll stick with the manual.

I really like the PP1 package but hate that the dealers try to get close to retail on the car because of the package. Do you know what the average deals are on these cars? Also, didn't they offer the PP1 in 2017?

Pretty sure they had the PP1 in '17. I got a little better than $8K Cdn off my car, I bought it in Aug. of 16, dealership had a couple and they were anxious to move them. No idea what average would be, but I have never paid retail price for a car and never will. Guy doesn't want to deal, move on to the next one, someone always will deal. I like wrestling with car salesmen and their managers, it's kind of fun.:lol:

The MT82 is not horrible, but for severe track duty I'd call it marginal. After break in the first thing to do is put BG fluid in it and that will help a lot. Then a better rear shifter bushing and a bushing for the hole in the rear trans mount will firm up the shifter nicely.

 

[dmann]

Look up "Serpent Stangs" on YouTube or [MENTION=7179]SVTDSM[/MENTION] on here. He just tracked his 2018 PP1 last weekend.

Hmm, the auto did well. Thanks for posting!

 

[Crossroads]

BG tranny and rear fluid and this https://lmr.com/item/ES-41138R/mustang-trans-mount-insert-red-energy-suspension-11-17.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Take a close look at the front rotors for the non-PP GT. According to Terry Fair (Vorshlag), the non-PP rotors draw air from the wheel side instead of the back side like every other vented brake rotor I've ever seen does. You need to draw air from the back side for brake cooling ducts to do much good, and at 10 track days/year you're going to need these ducts sooner rather than later.

I suppose you could always do your own upgrade to PP1 brake specs, but that wouldn't get you the PP-specific AdvanceTrac calibration or any of the rest.

The advantage in stepping up to the PP2 is because at the PP2 level you're finally getting wheel widths and tire sizes appropriate for track duty. Again, at 10 day/year I'm sure that you'll outgrow the PP1's 9" & 9.5" wheels and 255/275 tires. Balance that (and the utility of separating your track tires from street duty) against the cost of aftermarket wheels in 10" or wider and 285 or wider tires.


Norm

 

[dmann]

I'm looking into the PP1s now and have found some in the range that is execptable for me.

I have flushed the stock fluid in the past and used Motul RBF600.
What all do you use?

 

[dmann]

Take a close look at the front rotors for the non-PP GT. According to Terry Fair (Vorshlag), the non-PP rotors draw air from the wheel side instead of the back side like every other vented brake rotor I've ever seen does. You need to draw air from the back side for brake cooling ducts to do much good, and at 10 track days/year you're going to need these ducts sooner rather than later.

I suppose you could always do your own upgrade to PP1 brake specs, but that wouldn't get you the PP-specific AdvanceTrac calibration or any of the rest.

The advantage in stepping up to the PP2 is because at the PP2 level you're finally getting wheel widths and tire sizes appropriate for track duty. Again, at 10 day/year I'm sure that you'll outgrow the PP1's 9" & 9.5" wheels and 255/275 tires. Balance that (and the utility of separating your track tires from street duty) against the cost of aftermarket wheels in 10" or wider and 285 or wider tires.


Norm

will do! thanks

 

[JohnD]

I'm looking into the PP1s now and have found some in the range that is execptable for me.

I have flushed the stock fluid in the past and used Motul RBF600.
What all do you use?

RBF600 is good, Castrol SRF is considered best by a lot of people but it is pricey and for most people probably overkill.

 

[dmann]

Yes, that stuff is pricey.

 

[dmann]

Does anyone have the track alignment settings?

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