Passing emissions with my Procharger

[Bartly]

Hey, yea we had a little fun lol.

That's crazy that local tuner turned off the knock sensors. That's kinda nutty, definitely can't just report 0 in all conditions. Glad you had the other tuner (Rob) fix it. Power wise at 581/455 that's conservative tune wise and makes sense for 91 octane. You picked up around 200 ponies that PC promised on 91 in their original blog post for Stage 2. So that seems fine.

As far as the concentrate stuff, I don't think it's the problem. You haven't used a whole lot of it. That concentrate stuff does work for people. I just don't like that it's a mystery product. It's probably some blend of of alcohol/isooctane/isopentante/toluene with mmt added.

If the cat O2s are ready then it's not likely to be fuel additive related IMO. Wonder if homeboy you had dyno tuning locally turned something else off. Can you find a friendly place that might um... overlook your situation with some creative solution to get you the sticker you need? It's not optimal but if you're running out of time it may be a solution while you work something up.

Nutty was I took it back to him told him I didn't like how much knock I was seeing. I picked the car up from him and the knock sensors were reporting 46 or some odd # that was impossible. I took it back told him what they were measuring and when I picked it up that's when it was set at constant 0 and he refused to say he’d done that. I don't know anything about how the car's PCM and tune work together. I don't know if the monitors settings are inside the tune or outside and "hard coded" to the cars computer.

Been looking for help locally, but not having any success so far. The way the smog check works is it hooks to the cars OBDII connector and validates VIN and that the monitors are ready and there are no codes. As far as I know there isn't a way to get around this by hooking up to another car or adjusting the carburetor like in the old days. I keep thinking that since the O2s are on and I can see them on my logs and there are no error codes that the car is running right and the monitors just need to trigger. But that's a whole lot of wishful thinking on my part.

Sponsored

 

[mustang1]

https://www.dps.texas.gov/rsd/vi/Misc/faq/ready_not.htm
"Changing the monitor(s) to "READY"
In order to get the OBDII system to set the monitors to "Ready", the vehicle needs to be driven through a drive cycle/drive trace.
If you don't have access to drive cycles/drive traces, they should be available from a qualified service technician or dealership.

Drive cycle looks like something that would be defined in a Mustang service manual. At least for stock tune. Maybe you can call dealership service department and ask if they can check the service manual for that.

 

[oesman]

The way the smog check works is it hooks to the cars OBDII connector and validates VIN and that the monitors are ready and there are no codes. As far as I know there isn't a way to get around this by hooking up to another car or adjusting the carburetor like in the old days.

What if your computer dies and you get a new one? Are you sure they're really validating VIN from the computer? Cuz that would mean if your computer dies you'd have to get a new car. The way they cheat here is a different car.

 

[Bartly]

https://www.dps.texas.gov/rsd/vi/Misc/faq/ready_not.htm
"Changing the monitor(s) to "READY"
In order to get the OBDII system to set the monitors to "Ready", the vehicle needs to be driven through a drive cycle/drive trace.
If you don't have access to drive cycles/drive traces, they should be available from a qualified service technician or dealership.

Drive cycle looks like something that would be defined in a Mustang service manual. At least for stock tune. Maybe you can call dealership service department and ask if they can check the service manual for that.

The Drive Cycle instructions out of the factory service manual are in post 1. I also went to a fairly well respected shop in town that also does smog testing and they gave me the same printout for my car. The one I have been trying over and over to no avail is the HO2S, which is the Heated O2 monitor.

What if your computer dies and you get a new one? Are you sure they're really validating VIN from the computer? Cuz that would mean if your computer dies you'd have to get a new car. The way they cheat here is a different car.

No I am not sure of this, I read it somewhere, but who knows where in my couple weeks of scouring the internet for clues on how to make it test these monitors. Guess I can go cruise the local Walmart’s until I find a S550 and then see if I can get one of them to follow me to a smog station. Just need to work on my Jedi skills, lol.

 

[mustang1]

The Drive Cycle instructions out of the factory service manual are in post 1. I also went to a fairly well respected shop in town that also does smog testing and they gave me the same printout for my car. The one I have been trying over and over to no avail is the HO2S, which is the Heated O2 monitor.

I glossed over that originally. drive cycle procedure for HO2S says to drive at 48-65 for 5 minutes. Roughly 5 miles. If you already have 1200 miles, I doubt more miles is going to help. I looked in the Chilton guide for 2015 Mustang and they a have a page for HO2S. Listing a dozen or so inputs that are needed to enable the HO2S monitor. Not just sensor voltage and response rate.

 

[Bartly]

I glossed over that originally. drive cycle procedure for HO2S says to drive at 48-65 for 5 minutes. Roughly 5 miles. If you already have 1200 miles, I doubt more miles is going to help. I looked in the Chilton guide for 2015 Mustang and they a have a page for HO2S. Listing a dozen or so inputs that are needed to enable the HO2S monitor. Not just sensor voltage and response rate.

The only thing that makes me want to think more miles might help is Prochargertech saying it will get them to pass. But I’m hesitant to believe anything they say anymore. I’ve put 300+ miles on it with the cardboard in front of the radiator and the head temps 210-225, probably 200 or those miles have been on the highway doing 60-63mph constant speed.

 

[tjwoo]

The only thing that makes me want to think more miles might help is Prochargertech saying it will get them to pass. But I’m hesitant to believe anything they say anymore. I’ve put 300+ miles on it with the cardboard in front of the radiator and the head temps 210-225, probably 200 or those miles have been on the highway doing 60-63mph constant speed.

Following this closely. Stg2, just moved to NV. Need to get emissions, almost same not clearing as Bartly, HO2 and O2. Still on hptuners canned tune shipped with procharger. Car runs pretty crap since moving here in November, high high idle

 

[Bartly]

Following this closely. Stg2, just moved to NV. Need to get emissions, almost same not clearing as Bartly, HO2 and O2. Still on hptuners canned tune shipped with procharger. Car runs pretty crap since moving here in November, high high idle

Well I’ll cross my fingers for you. How many miles have you put on yours since the tune was installed? My canned Procharger tune wouldn’t work right, made the car accelerate on its own instead of decelerating when taking foot off the gas pedal. I was half tempted to put the PC tune back in to see if it would help with the monitors, but if your in the same boat I don’t think I’ll be doing that.

 

[tjwoo]

I've actually got around 8k on the stock canned tune.
I've had couple cel though through that time, due to high idle p0507, esp in cold weather on warm engine. Rarely saw any issues in georgia, but im not sure if it's 91 gas, altitude, or cold temps in Reno that is really aggravating it. It will sometimes bounce up to 2k rpm at idle. Just drove from reno to san diego this weekend, didn't have any issues.

 

[Bartly]

I've actually got around 8k on the stock canned tune.
I've had couple cel though through that time, due to high idle p0507, esp in cold weather on warm engine. Rarely saw any issues in georgia, but im not sure if it's 91 gas, altitude, or cold temps in Reno that is really aggravating it. It will sometimes bounce up to 2k rpm at idle. Just drove from reno to san diego this weekend, didn't have any issues.

I had that p0507 code and high idle with mine as well after first installation, Procharger was able to remedy it with some tune revisions, but it still never ran right. Yeah, 91 octane isn’t that good, it makes my knock sensors very unhappy. Sounds like we need to find the same person who can help us with our common Procharger, I mean problem,lol.

Funny I was thinking of taking a long road trip would clear the monitors, doesn’t sound like it helped.

 

[mustang1]

... I’ve put 300+ miles on it with the cardboard in front of the radiator and the head temps 210-225, probably 200 or those miles have been on the highway doing 60-63mph constant speed.

^ if normal CHT is 195, I am not sure what the point of this is

 

[Bartly]

^ if normal CHT is 195, I am not sure what the point of this is

Shotgun approach for me, so far everything hasn’t worked, so might as well just try whatever. As far as why, I did read something Whipple wrote on here that head temps around 207 (if I recall) were best for burning gasoline?

 

[mustang1]

can't comment on CHT 207. Interesting that tjwoo 's car has similar issue, and didn't turn all the monitors green while in San Diego. Procharger lists a CARB# as of October. At least for the 8 psi kit. Maybe someone can chime in here, that has Stage II with all the monitors green.

 

[keltymd]

I just checked my personal 2018 Mustang....

Stone stock, never even touched the car...
1,500 miles so far on the clock...
Car is daily driven, and a little road trip action already.

Still hasn't set the following:
- Fuel System
- Cat
- Evap
- O2
- EGR

The only tests it has passed so far are.
- Misfire
- Components
- O2 Heater

Again I ask. If the issue is not in the tune how come I installed a Whipple today and drove it for the first time with a full tank of gas in 7-18 degree weather and all the cycles except EVAP have completed in about 130 miles?

I am not starting a Whipple vs Procharger war but am just saying it HAS to be in the tune. Just trying to get these guys with PC the help they need from the vendor that sold them the product.

 

[Bartly]

Here a couple of highway constant speed logs.

Log #187 was with cardboard in the radiator so you'll see it's running a little hotter. Log #189 was after I pulled the cardboard. Both logs were renamed to *.txt for posting, so if you want to open them you'll have to rename to *.csv. Looking at the downstream sensors I see they trigger to lean every 20 seconds or so, I am guessing this means the heaters are coming on? Also I do see the downstream Bank2 doesn't seem "trigger" all the time or all the way? Am I understanding this right.

Anyway, any feedback you have is welcome.
Thanks.

Sponsored