hlh1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2017
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- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 GT PP1 A10
It's good to know that this can work if needed.
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I agree with ABS550 on the tack welding...That sounds good in theory, but... The weight of the screw is also partially offset by the weight of the rest of the clamp, (the band) so how much weight would you really have to add? How much will the tack weigh? Without precision balancing tools, I don't think it is feasible to determine how much weight is needed.
In my case, one hose clamp was too heavy! I had to add a second one and separate them quite a bit, so that they ALMOST cancel each other out.
The "on the car" method is a fair bit of trial and error. It would be very difficult to weld weights on, without having proper tools, and perhaps even removing the entire assembly to balance on proper balancing tools.
My hose clamps are well marked and photographed. They haven't budged since installation in Aug 2016. If they ever do, I can replace them quickly.
And as far as looking cheesy? I don't see them. I haven't been under the back of my car in over a year.
OMG I can t believe you did that on stands! lolI agree with ABS550 on the tack welding...
I have a minor beef with ABS's description of the necessary weight determination. I'm being picky and technocratic - it's the engineer in me.
Over much of the circumference, the band doesn't change anything. This is because a continuous band adds mass over the full circumference of the DS and the added masses cancel. But there is a fly in the ointment...
Through the screw assembly out through the trailing end of the band, there are TWO layers of band. So, near the screw, mass is being added by the screw, the screw enclosure and one of the two layers of the band.
Theoretically, the moment of inertia (which dictates the mass needed) of hose clamp tightened to a specific ID could be 3D modeled with the material mass/density properties. After modelling the overall measured mass of the clamp can be compared with the calculated mass as a sanity check. However, I would think that manufacturing tolerances in the screw, thickness of the band, etc. would make this valid only for the hose clamp from which the 3D model was created. In short, ballpark at best...
All in all, I believe the two hose clamp approach procedure I wrote up somewhere in this thread (which is the same method ABS550 used), is the right way to go if you choose to fix this yourself.... But as I said in the write-up, I caution that I ran my car up to 70 MPH on jackstands. Not the safest thing in the world to do... If your car falls off the stands, runs through the wall of your garage then runs over your cat, don't come cryin' to me...
John
Car dropped of at Ford. Got a rental car without asking was encouraging. They said they will put the nvh analyzer on the car for testing. I'll report back any findings of run around lol gave them ssm 45938, also mentioned balancing driveshaft with hose clamp.
Unless they just now updated the driveshafts I can tell you this will not fix the issue. I have had 2 put in my car and the vibration is back now worse than ever and its back at the F***** dealers again. Tired of this shit and my days are numbered with this car if its not fixed this next time I get it back. 2 driveshafts, carrier bushings, rear end and drive axles and its worse so.....
Another thought, although messing with your warranty, is to pull your DS and take it to an independent shop. We have a DS shop in town that's pretty good. They actually spot weld washers in place to balance.
At least have them run a balance check. If Ford cannot figure it out, you might have to grab the bull by its horns and ride it.
Just a thought.
You really need to balance the whole assembly together. Some have tried a new aftermarket DS which would come balanced already and their vibration is no better.Another thought, although messing with your warranty, is to pull your DS and take it to an independent shop. We have a DS shop in town that's pretty good. They actually spot weld washers in place to balance.
At least have them run a balance check. If Ford cannot figure it out, you might have to grab the bull by its horns and ride it.
Just a thought.
The hose clamp fix approach is actually what's shown in the Ford Service Manual to balance the drive shaft.Why not tack weld metal of the exact weight of the clamp in the exact location of the clamp location so it looks original! Hose clamps look cheezie and are not a permanent mount!
Good point about the slots!"OMG I can t believe you did that on stands! lol"
Yup. Me too. That's how it's done when you don't have a hoist.
(My front wheels were on ramps)
The benefit is that any vibrations are not dampened with the rubber of the tires. So you can feel it even more, which helps with the balancing.
I am sure I ran mine to at least 70 Mph. Maybe 80 or 85. I can't remember now.
John, part of the hose clamp band has slots in it to mate with the screw and part of the band is solid. So yes, that makes it even harder to duplicate exactly how much weight the screw is adding. I like your technical explanation!
Blake
CASE AND POINTMy brand new 2017 GT PP had this issue from day 1. Brought it to the dealer and took a tech for a ride. He felt it and they had me reschedule to roadforce my tires. No improvement. Service manager and I took out another 2017 mustang they had in stock that was a trade in with 700 miles on it and we felt no vibration. They took that driveshaft, and swapped it into my car and it fixed it. Hopefully they order a new shaft for the other car or the next owner is going to be rattled out of their seat lmao