M-4000-M8S diff cooler

[Cammer]

Tank,

Unfortunately there's no part number tag on the thermostatic switch nor was it in a FMC bag with part number. I'm assuming Ford sourced this from a supplier just for this kit since it's a switch and not a sensor like what's used on the production cooler installation. In other words, it's a switch that closes at some temperature to energize the relay that supplies power to the pump, and isn't a sensor that provides a temperature signal back to the PCM or whatever module is used to give the in-dash axle temp display and also actually control the pump.

Brian

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[mkonrad]

http://www.nasonptc.com/?q=product-tt

TT-F3A-170R-WL

 

[rb92gt]

Interesting that in several pages of this Ford instruction manual it shows a trans cooler switch as well as a diff cooler switch. It matches, so must be a Ford part.

 

[TDC]

I bought the kit and just finished the install today. The nice thing about the kit is it looks OEM when it's installed. If you have the ability, going with aftermarket parts like [MENTION=20343]GT_Dave[/MENTION] did is probably better in my opinion. I did end up modifying a few things with the kit that didn't fit together and my wiring harness had some undersized ring terminals on it. Ford Performance did fix my harness and shipped it back and forth for free, so they were good to work with.

Hack,

So leaving out the thermo-switch would allow for factory diff cover to be used and supplied hoses to fit on the factory diff cover? That would be ideal because a major turnoff to this kit for me was the rear suspension disassembly.
My tranny cooler is on a switch so I could just use that to to turn both pumps on when going out for a track session.

 

[Hack]

Hack,

So leaving out the thermo-switch would allow for factory diff cover to be used and supplied hoses to fit on the factory diff cover? That would be ideal because a major turnoff to this kit for me was the rear suspension disassembly.
My tranny cooler is on a switch so I could just use that to to turn both pumps on when going out for a track session.

Yes, you could definitely do that.

And it is possible to modify the factory track pack diff cover to fit the thermo-switch without drilling all the way through the cover. I didn't want to tear the rear end out of the car a second time so I checked on my tech pack diff cover first and then modified the track pack diff cover that is installed in my car. Of course if you decide to do this you have to be careful not to drill too deeply into the cover.

 

[Side_Pce]

If you use the factory diff cover, add some quick disconnects to the cover to ease the changing of fluids and prevent cross threading/wear on the threads. Planning to do this on my Transmission.

 

[shogun32]

I know it sounds a little silly, but what if wire the pump up to a relay that's triggered by the brake lights (or tail) as the means of activation? So instead of running wires the length of the car for power and switch, just use what's already back there. Note, I haven't confirmed if there is a sufficiently high-current line back there to tap for the pump's power feed.

 

[DCShelby]

The brake lights are LED, a pump would draw lots more current than a LED light assembly. I’d be careful about doing it.

 

[shogun32]

that's why the *relay*, and the last sentence.

 

[Cammer]

I don’t understand why you’d want to cycle the pump so much. On the track, you want it running the whole time once the diff is up to temperature.

My guess is that you’d wear out the pump motor a lot sooner doing this.

Also, you’re going to have to run a stout wire from the battery back there anyway that’s switched by the relay to power the pump.

Brian

 

[Tank]

http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/FT_1370.htm

Better bargain IMHO

 

[rb92gt]

I know it sounds a little silly, but what if wire the pump up to a relay that's triggered by the brake lights (or tail) as the means of activation? So instead of running wires the length of the car for power and switch, just use what's already back there. Note, I haven't confirmed if there is a sufficiently high-current line back there to tap for the pump's power feed.

No, don't do this. You need a dedicated power line direct from the battery to the relay (with switch of your choice and location) then the cooler. It isn't too hard, from the battery tap into the passenger side firewall, then run the wire under the right floorboard (remove plastic kick panel cover first), then fish it behind the rear seat right plastic panel (no need to remove the panel), then put the rear seats down and run it across the car to the driver side, then down through the rubber grommet which is already present in the floor. I already ran this wire when I installed my transmission cooler with the plan of installing a rear diff cooler, but never installed the rear diff cooler as I find no need for street driving (can't seem to get the rear diff above 170 in Florida heat for a few summers now). The transmission cooler I installed is awesome, silent, once turned on within 10 seconds temp starts to drop by 2 degrees every 20 seconds or so until it gets to 140s. If you want a copy of my wiring diagram for the entire install let me know, it is posted on here somewhere, but was done a couple years ago. I also took pics along the way.

 

[Tank]

No, don't do this. You need a dedicated power line direct from the battery to the relay (with switch of your choice and location) then the cooler. It isn't too hard, from the battery tap into the passenger side firewall, then run the wire under the right floorboard (remove plastic kick panel cover first), then fish it behind the rear seat right plastic panel (no need to remove the panel), then put the rear seats down and run it across the car to the driver side, then down through the rubber grommet which is already present in the floor. I already ran this wire when I installed my transmission cooler with the plan of installing a rear diff cooler, but never installed the rear diff cooler as I find no need for street driving (can't seem to get the rear diff above 170 in Florida heat for a few summers now). The transmission cooler I installed is awesome, silent, once turned on within 10 seconds temp starts to drop by 2 degrees every 20 seconds or so until it gets to 140s. If you want a copy of my wiring diagram for the entire install let me know, it is posted on here somewhere, but was done a couple years ago. I also took pics along the way.

Could this be the diagram?
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-oil-cooler-install.69499/page-9#post-2109006

Also, if you want to post up the pics in a separate thread, I’ll link it to the Basics sticky

 

[rb92gt]

Could this be the diagram?
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-oil-cooler-install.69499/page-9#post-2109006

Also, if you want to post up the pics in a separate thread, I’ll link it to the Basics sticky

That's it Tank, thanks! I will post the pics soon in a new thread.

 

[rb92gt]

That's it Tank, thanks! I will post the pics soon in a new thread.

I just put pics in the Media section, hopefully that's a good spot for them

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