Aftermarket GT350 Transmission Cooler Install w/ pics & part list (Base & Tech Pack))

[zombiekiller]

[MENTION=21671]zombiekiller[/MENTION] what pump did you use. I saw your post of where's mounted and that it pumps 2.3 gpm, but can't tell the brand/model. Also, did you have to drill any holes to mount it?

I used the RBRacing helical oil rated pumps front and rear. I had the factory differential pump working, but I wasn't confident that it would hold up with my mediocre wiring hacks.

I made an adapter plate to put the trans pump behind the passenger fender in the big cavity that is there.

For the rear, I made an aluminum adapter bracket to mount the RB racing pump where the factory pump normally goes.

I chose to make brackets and use pre-existing mounting points/holes in the car. I had no interest in having to drill holes. I also had no interest in having to remove any factory functionality.

I should finish up my trans and differential temp gauges this week. I'm using PLX gauges in a pillar mounted pod.

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[earlSpilner]

actually, you're wrong. The only way that space would get a ton of anything is if you removed the fender liner.

I have my pump installed there. works like a charm and gets enough airflow to keep the pump cool.

Fair enough. I based my conclusion on the debris that I found in there. Mounting the pump in the upper part of the fender would most likely avoid any issue. Also keep in mind i daily my car for most of the year and my roads tends to have a decent amount of rocks, mud, dust and salt on them. We've been known to have freak snow storms in early September so summer to winter driving conditions in 12 hours. Sometimes you can't help but have to drive in the snow. So my experience might not be typical for your local.

 

[earlSpilner]

I used the RBRacing helical oil rated pumps front and rear. I had the factory differential pump working, but I wasn't confident that it would hold up with my mediocre wiring hacks.

I made an adapter plate to put the trans pump behind the passenger fender in the big cavity that is there.

For the rear, I made an aluminum adapter bracket to mount the RB racing pump where the factory pump normally goes.

I chose to make brackets and use pre-existing mounting points/holes in the car. I had no interest in having to drill holes. I also had no interest in having to remove any factory functionality.

I should finish up my trans and differential temp gauges this week. I'm using PLX gauges in a pillar mounted pod.

I'll have to explore the rear diff threads as I am curious to see if I am now in danger of over heating the dif now. I'd imagine the rear dif cooler would be relatively easier bracket wise as there is more room back there.

 

[Caballus]

I used the RBRacing helical oil rated pumps front and rear. I had the factory differential pump working, but I wasn't confident that it would hold up with my mediocre wiring hacks.

I made an adapter plate to put the trans pump behind the passenger fender in the big cavity that is there.

For the rear, I made an aluminum adapter bracket to mount the RB racing pump where the factory pump normally goes.

I chose to make brackets and use pre-existing mounting points/holes in the car. I had no interest in having to drill holes. I also had no interest in having to remove any factory functionality.

I should finish up my trans and differential temp gauges this week. I'm using PLX gauges in a pillar mounted pod.

Many thanks. Cooler on the way, so researching pump mounting options, along with determining best way to regulate pump (always on vs. thermo vs. manual). Greatly appreciate your experience.

 

[zombiekiller]

Fair enough. I based my conclusion on the debris that I found in there. Mounting the pump in the upper part of the fender would most likely avoid any issue. Also keep in mind i daily my car for most of the year and my roads tends to have a decent amount of rocks, mud, dust and salt on them. We've been known to have freak snow storms in early September so summer to winter driving conditions in 12 hours. Sometimes you can't help but have to drive in the snow. So my experience might not be typical for your local.

There are two holes towards the front of that cavity that are slightly higher than the vents in the back of the fender liner. If you make a mounting bracket and get it up high, you wont get anything on the pump that would hurt it. Also, you'll minimize debris if you buy the california pony cars front flaps. they really work to keep the junk out. I simply peel em off for the track and replace when done. Also, the pumps that you should be using are continuous duty helical, weatherproof, designed to be in a dirty engine compartment. use weatherpack connectors and dielectric grease and you'll be good.

I also like this mounting location as if you have a pump failure or leak of some sort, the trans fluid will hit the pavement behind the front tire, which may give you the chance to not eat wall and get off track asap.

I'll have to explore the rear diff threads as I am curious to see if I am now in danger of over heating the dif now. I'd imagine the rear dif cooler would be relatively easier bracket wise as there is more room back there.

I installed a temp sensor first and caught the diff getting close to 300 degrees after 5 x 20 min sessions.

Many thanks. Cooler on the way, so researching pump mounting options, along with determining best way to regulate pump (always on vs. thermo vs. manual). Greatly appreciate your experience.

I'd go manual switches. less to break. you can also leave them on after sessions to cool it down more. I will say that if you plan to do this, bring a couple fans to the track to push air at the radiators. pumps wont do much without airflow.

I looked into using a hot rod thermostatic control device normally used for dual fan setups, i opted against it.

one recommendation, design your hose routing as a "pull" circuit. I.e. fluid out of the trans or diff goes directly into the radiator, the "out" from the rad feeds into the pump, out from the pump goes back to the trans/diff.

This will elongate the pump and seal life, as the temps will be 20-30 degrees cooler heading into the pump.

I'm using my ngauge to monitor the trans temp. I also installed a temp sensor in line at the pump's output to monitor the effectiveness of the cooling system.

 

[Caballus]

I'd go manual switches. less to break. you can also leave them on after sessions to cool it down more.

What spot did you use to run the wire from the pump to the switch through the firewall? Also, where did you place the switch?

 

[lemers]

Has anyone seen a diy video on trans cooler installation?

 

[zombiekiller]

What spot did you use to run the wire from the pump to the switch through the firewall? Also, where did you place the switch?

passenger side grommet under the fender liner. the switches are on the plastic panel on the trans tunnel, next to my right knee.

 

[Side_Pce]

Does anyone know what the adapter to the factory radiator to AN is called or where I can buy them?

 

[TDC]

Don't know the name but have a suggestion. If you have factory trans lines you can have a shop braze AN fittings onto the hard line this way the cooler lines to the radiator run just like the factory (except for right at the trans. of course).

I went this way and like how it turned out.

 

[Side_Pce]

Don't know the name but have a suggestion. If you have factory trans lines you can have a shop braze AN fittings onto the hard line this way the cooler lines to the radiator run just like the factory (except for right at the trans. of course).

I went this way and like how it turned out.

I'm trying to decide if it's necessary to buy the kit or piece the kit out and save a couple hundred. If I can just get the fittings my life would be a little easier.

 

[rb92gt]

I'm trying to decide if it's necessary to buy the kit or piece the kit out and save a couple hundred. If I can just get the fittings my life would be a little easier.

Well, if you decide to get the entire kit you can save $150 here (have had this "sale" for the past few months):
https://fordracingpartsbydonwood.co...-m-7095-m8s/?gclid=CMWf6JWaidMCFQVDhgodF5cPLw

 

[Demonic]

Great write up and contribution, thanks.

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