Engine blew up

[DavidHuff]

From the limited information that I have given how have you determined the cause of my engine failure? I really am interested.

I had a 91 octane Livernois tune. Always used 91 octane. Unless Livernois is now considered an aggressive tune, the tune was not the cause.

Please correct me if I am wrong, but haven't there been 2015 engine failures in untuned mustangs?

Ford paid for my new engine. If they thought the engine failure was tune connected I doubt that would have happened.

I am sort of repeating myself. Just want to make sure you are reading carefully.

So number 1 piston just cracked opened.WOW
I guess your Ford Dealer knows more than I do because I was not there and they did you a big favor that cost Ford Motor Company a lot of $ because you voided your warranty when you installed a after market tune.
All I am saying if you start tuning without data logs and using pump gas you are taking a big risk.
Good Luck!

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[jbailer]

That is exactly what Jbailer said in his post...........:headbonk:

I just ignore him. He likes to follow every time I post something and be an @ss.

 

[jbailer]

It's not new news that the BIGGEST limiting factor with this engine is octane. That's something Adam has said forever. For many like me, that brings a lot of complications.

1. E85 is not readily available for most, at least not in a convenient manner.
2. Ethanol content at pumps can vary a lot, especially in winter.
3. Having to measure the ethanol.
4. Methanol will buy you some extra but as good as the meth kits are these days, I still don't want to trust my engine to them.
5. Problems with consistent methanol delivery as the tank goes down from slosh, alerts when tank goes low, etc.
6. Race gas is very expensive.

So unless you are hardcore racing and ok with those issues, 93 (or 91 in some parts) is all the average person has. I drive my car back and forth to work and it's not the same location. I need to know where ever I go, I can get that fuel.

 

[Diablocoastie]

Perfweld, what laptop do you us? I'm looking for one just to datalog and load car programs. I have a Mac for everything else.

Thanks in advance

 

[jtmat]

That is exactly what Jbailer said in his post...........:headbonk:

He was not clear.... just wanted to clear it up. Go troll someplace else.

 

[Fridge]

From the limited information that I have given how have you determined the cause of my engine failure? I really am interested.

I had a 91 octane Livernois tune. Always used 91 octane. Unless Livernois is now considered an aggressive tune, the tune was not the cause.

Please correct me if I am wrong, but haven't there been 2015 engine failures in untuned mustangs?

Ford paid for my new engine. If they thought the engine failure was tune connected I doubt that would have happened.

I am sort of repeating myself. Just want to make sure you are reading carefully.

There have been idk how many but this guy had a stock mustang from what I can tell.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47330&highlight=Blown+engine

 

[Weather Man]

Thank you very much everyone for your advice and suggestions. I have decided going with stock engine with no tune, and putting the stock IC back. Here are some reasons why I decided this.

1. Adam suggested me that installing the stock engine is my best bet. And Livernois told me that the factory warranty that I would get back is a solid investment. Both are the built engine specialists, if both say the similar thing, I should probably follow their suggestion.
2. Getting back to the warranty makes me feel safe.
3. When I feel that the stock ecoboost is boring in the future, I can install Ford Racing ProCal tune with full warranty. It needs to be installed by a dealership. It seems like many people like the tune.
4. I will save $2-3K, and use it for my future vacation.

Thanks again everyone! I will come back here and update the status of my car after the new engine installed.

No need to run stock intercooler. I run the CP-e intercooler on stock car and picked up a nice boost in power and way better iat's.

 

[hipporo]

Since you have 30k miles on the car, a Ford ProCal, will not get you 3/36 on the new motor. I'm sure Jbailer can give you exact numbers, since he is the ProCal warranty guru.

Your mileage is almost exactly the same as mine. Regarding the FP Tune later, you do know that it will only cover until 3/36 from original vehicle purchase right? So if you went that route, you probably have less than a year or less than 6k miles I believe. If you do it, you wouldn't have coverage on the power train after the 3/36 FP warranty expires so if gaining that warranty on the new engine is important to you beyond 3/36 from original vehicle purchase, I'd leave it stock. When Ford says you'll go back to the 5/60, they mean 5/60 from original purchase. Putting the FP tune on it isn't a time reset either.

I would use that as a minimum recommendation. If you believe it is different, I would encourage you to discuss it with Ford Performance and the service manager at your dealer.

Thanks for the info. I probably keep my car stock...

 

[paullyd210]

It's not new news that the BIGGEST limiting factor with this engine is octane. That's something Adam has said forever. For many like me, that brings a lot of complications.

1. E85 is not readily available for most, at least not in a convenient manner.
2. Ethanol content at pumps can vary a lot, especially in winter.
3. Having to measure the ethanol.
4. Methanol will buy you some extra but as good as the meth kits are these days, I still don't want to trust my engine to them.
5. Problems with consistent methanol delivery as the tank goes down from slosh, alerts when tank goes low, etc.
6. Race gas is very expensive.

So unless you are hardcore racing and ok with those issues, 93 (or 91 in some parts) is all the average person has. I drive my car back and forth to work and it's not the same location. I need to know where ever I go, I can get that fuel.

Lets not forget another restriction in that there is still not a true plug and play, no controller needed e85 system out there.

 

[Juben]

It's not new news that the BIGGEST limiting factor with this engine is octane. That's something Adam has said forever. For many like me, that brings a lot of complications.

1. E85 is not readily available for most, at least not in a convenient manner.
2. Ethanol content at pumps can vary a lot, especially in winter.
3. Having to measure the ethanol.
4. Methanol will buy you some extra but as good as the meth kits are these days, I still don't want to trust my engine to them.
5. Problems with consistent methanol delivery as the tank goes down from slosh, alerts when tank goes low, etc.
6. Race gas is very expensive.

So unless you are hardcore racing and ok with those issues, 93 (or 91 in some parts) is all the average person has. I drive my car back and forth to work and it's not the same location. I need to know where ever I go, I can get that fuel.

Even with E85, you're still trusting your engine to an external controller. I think WMI would be a great way for you to achieve your extra power goals while not having the extra responsibilities of E85. As long as your controller is installed properly with the correct safeguards, it'll be just fine. I always checked mine (on previous cars) when I would fill up with gas. It only took a couple extra minutes, if that, and I never worried about the tank going dry. WMI is a really good alternative to E85 that requires less maintenance, per se, and still offers a majority of the benefits. Plus, in most cases, it's cheaper to buy and install the kit.

 

[DavidHuff]

Even with E85, you're still trusting your engine to an external controller. I think WMI would be a great way for you to achieve your extra power goals while not having the extra responsibilities of E85. As long as your controller is installed properly with the correct safeguards, it'll be just fine. I always checked mine (on previous cars) when I would fill up with gas. It only took a couple extra minutes, if that, and I never worried about the tank going dry. WMI is a really good alternative to E85 that requires less maintenance, per se, and still offers a majority of the benefits. Plus, in most cases, it's cheaper to buy and install the kit.

Who makes a great Plug & Play WMI Kit?

 

[jbailer]

Even with E85, you're still trusting your engine to an external controller. I think WMI would be a great way for you to achieve your extra power goals while not having the extra responsibilities of E85. As long as your controller is installed properly with the correct safeguards, it'll be just fine. I always checked mine (on previous cars) when I would fill up with gas. It only took a couple extra minutes, if that, and I never worried about the tank going dry. WMI is a really good alternative to E85 that requires less maintenance, per se, and still offers a majority of the benefits. Plus, in most cases, it's cheaper to buy and install the kit.

I agree with all of that to an extent. As I said, I still don't trust these systems. It's another way to increase the octane level but it's auxiliary. If anything happens to the system and you are tuned for that higher octane which would be the entire purpose, buh bye engine...I know there have been advancements since then but I used one of these systems from what I believe is the market leader in that space in 2002. I swore I'd never do that again. If it doesn't come from the gas pump and readily available, I'm ot doing it again.

 

[DontoMelbo]

Who makes a great Plug & Play WMI Kit?

see Unleashed site

 

[jbailer]

I guess a better way to say it, is I'd only consider WMI for safety, not as an octane booster to tune to. I'd use it to help reduce temps, especially if pushing s turbo or SC past it's normal operation RPMs where it's generating more heat and you want to bring temps down. But I would only tune to the base fuel, then turn on the WMI for safety. It's just too risky.

 

[Blyman93]

Mine blew up, too. Also a 2015. Also a hole by the turbo (7 holes total, actually).

For me, as someone who drag races a lot, it made sense to go the built motor route. However, the factor you may not be considering in the increase of cost going to the built motor (2-3k you mentioned over the factory replacement cost) is all the supporting mods to allow it to work like intended: driveshaft, halfshafts, clutch, larger turbo, more fuel, etc/etc/etc. Of course, you could opt not to do any of those things and just have a built motor for safety reasons.

Hahaha your blew up from too much hell yeah juice

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