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MakStang

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Maybe this has been answered before, but I would like to avoid going through 69 pages. Does anyone know if this will be available for the European version of EcoBoost?
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Tamadrummer88

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Maybe this has been answered before, but I would like to avoid going through 69 pages. Does anyone know if this will be available for the European version of EcoBoost?
Im assuming Ford Performance has to apply for the necessary emissions permits and exemptions or whatever to get it to be sold there (Just like CARB in california)
 

jbailer

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I'm looking into a intercooler that does not drop too much delivery pressure without a tune for it. Sure, the added density of cooler air helps but I'm pretty sure 7 months out of the year in Jersey when the air is cold already there is a diminishing return. Fall, winter, early spring the air is cool enough for daily driving on the road for it to be efficient enough.
Most of the aftermarket FMICs have about a 1 psi drop or less. Someone had a chart in the sticky thread about 5 pages in I think.
 

8borerifle

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I am going to wait a while till the road surface gets a little warmer before I try a 0-60. The ones I did before were in last summer/fall. Can't get enough traction now. By the way, the factory boost gauge (PP car) previously showed 20 lbs at full boost, now goes to almost 25 lbs. Is that what others are experiencing? I just got an e-mail from Ford performance that my warranty was approved. I only have about a year and 12000 miles till the 3 year 36 month warranty is expired.
 

ForYourOwnGood

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You should be fine but it will be up to the dealer if you choose to go to a Ford dealer to have the install done. If you just go to a shop with an ASE certified technician, there won't be any problem at all. I have all those same mods and warranty wasn't an issue.
If I went to a local performance garage to have the tune loaded in, how do I submit the paperwork for the warranty?
 

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jbailer

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If I went to a local performance garage to have the tune loaded in, how do I submit the paperwork for the warranty?
You just email it to FP, there are instructions in the warranty on how to apply with the email address. Basically they just want to see the invoice for the Performance Pack bought from Ford and a shop invoice for installing it and your mileage if I remembered it all correctly.
 

8borerifle

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What JBailer said. I e-mailed invoice from Tasca Ford where I bought it, the code sent by FP, my name and address, the part number. Allietta Ford sent a copy of their invoice for installation. Also sent mileage as of installation. No problem!
 

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Thanks guys, I'm just trying to figure out the easiest way (for both my wallet and my sanity) to have this done. Its a lot of hassle but I think its worth it to preserve 30,000 miles of warranty at this point.
 
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TheLion

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I am going to wait a while till the road surface gets a little warmer before I try a 0-60. The ones I did before were in last summer/fall. Can't get enough traction now. By the way, the factory boost gauge (PP car) previously showed 20 lbs at full boost, now goes to almost 25 lbs. Is that what others are experiencing? I just got an e-mail from Ford performance that my warranty was approved. I only have about a year and 12000 miles till the 3 year 36 month warranty is expired.
I've seen the same on the digital gauge. 24.5 so pretty much 25. Normally I see around 18 to 20, but at lower RPM (mid 3k) in 4th gear I've seen it peak at 24ish a few times.
 
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TheLion

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If I went to a local performance garage to have the tune loaded in, how do I submit the paperwork for the warranty?
You scan your work order for the install and e-mail it to them along with your vin, name, address etc. Go on FP's site and download their warranty form, it has the e-mail on it or you can call in.
 

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8borerifle

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Very sorry for the terrible losses you have suffered, TheLion, you are in my prayers!
I did a little calculation and it seems that at approx. 25 pounds boost, our engines are ingesting the equivalent fuel and air of an almost 370 ci engine. That is why the huge torque these engines produce. Since atmospheric pressure at sea level is about 14.7 pounds per square inch, running 14.7 pounds boost would load the engine with twice the fuel (hopefully) and air, so about 276 ci equivalent, but we are running 25 pounds! I had a 1984 Monte Carlo SS that I installed a 1987 Buick Grand National drive train in and was running 25 pounds in that car. It ran 11.02 @ 122 at Norwalk Raceway. Torque was amazing! That motor calculated around 620 ci equivalent!
Turbo cars are amazing! Note: that is only a measurement of air equivalent packed into the cylinders!
 
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TheLion

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Very sorry for the terrible losses you have suffered, TheLion, you are in my prayers!
I did a little calculation and it seems that at approx. 25 pounds boost, our engines are ingesting the equivalent fuel and air of an almost 370 ci engine. That is why the huge torque these engines produce. Since atmospheric pressure at sea level is about 14.7 pounds per square inch, running 14.7 pounds boost would load the engine with twice the fuel (hopefully) and air, so about 276 ci equivalent, but we are running 25 pounds! I had a 1984 Monte Carlo SS that I installed a 1987 Buick Grand National drive train in and was running 25 pounds in that car. It ran 11.02 @ 122 at Norwalk Raceway. Torque was amazing! That motor calculated around 620 ci equivalent!
Turbo cars are amazing! Note: that is only a measurement of air equivalent packed into the cylinders!
One thing I have noticed with the FP tune is that some days it pulls harder at the top end. Today it's very humid and cool, lots of rain and moisture. While the car makes great power, there's still a bit of fade at the top end past about 6100 rpm.

If you look at the FP engine dyno, it still tapers off a lot at the very top (although part of that is related to the stock IC they used). What's interesting is that on the warmer dryer days (aka 60~70F and sunny), the car seems to actually make more power, at least that's the way it feels, and I typically see higher boost than the cooler wetter days (40's~50's, humid or rainy) and it is a lot more edgy.

I've always noticed that with NA cars as well, but seems that TDI engines the effects are amplified so it's a little more noticeable. On those warm dry days though, the fade is far less noticeable after 6100 rpm.

Now I'm running a Levels 20x14x3.5 FMIC, DV+ Valve with the spring installed for "enhanced function", AEM charge pipes and Brisk RR14S plugs. All the focus was on optimizing the intake side as with the FP tune that's all you can safely do.

Yes I'm running the FP GT350 CAI as well in concert with a ram air duct / GT grill, but that only comes into play at 60+. Some people run the stock intake, but the FP was tuned with the GT350 CAI, it won't provide more power, but it will provide better throttle response = faster 1/4 mile times. I really want to get to the drag strip to see what it can do with a 3.73 rear end. Hoping for low 13's with my average driving.

I'm wondering however with the FP tune if I'd make more power with the stock plugs as they protrude deeper into the chamber than the RR14S which simulates ignition advance. I just never changed the RR14S back out since I went to the FP tune...

Maybe I'll buy a set of stockers at the dealer and swap them out to see if I can tell a difference. The FP cal was calibrated on the OE plug design.

Remember though that the ecoboost 2.3L in it's factory configuration with a FP tune is down on HP compared to a V8. The coyote makes 435HP stock and 400 ft-lbs. A FP tuned 2.3L makes only 335 HP and 390 ft-lbs because the torque plateau is at the low end or RPM range, not the upper like in a NA V8. There was a coyote 2013 GT PP behind me today, merging onto the highway we both punched it, he was right behind me in lock step from 50 to 80. He may have been able to edge ahead if he was not stuck behind me, with a 100 HP advantage, but a 175lb weight disadvantage he still has lower lb / hp ratio. 10.65 for my EB assuming its making what FP says, 8.6 for his GT PP, pretty big difference still. EB's are quick, a FP tuned EB should run neck and neck if not beat out a stock WRX STI or stock Focus RS, which cost 10k more, but even a FP tuned EB won't beat out a stock PP GT, although it may come close. There's no replacement for displacement.

If we work out shift tables based on keeping the RPM bandwidth centered in the power curve of the FP tune, this is what I came up with:

Shift by Power Curve
Optimal Shift Points---Initial Gear End RPM---Next Gear Start RPM---Initial Gear End Power---Next Gear Start Power---RPM Bandwidth
___1st - 2nd____________ 6500_____________3900___________250HP / 200TQ________305HP / 355TQ________2600
___2nd - 3rd____________6000_____________3950___________305HP / 250TQ________300HP / 350TQ________2050
___3rd - 4th_____________6000_____________4450___________305HP / 250TQ________310HP / 335TQ________1550
___4th - 5th_____________6000_____________4850___________305HP / 250TQ________320HP / 325TQ________1150

A FP tuned EB holds above 300 HP from about 3800 RPM to 6000 RPM, giving you a 2200 RPM bandwidth to work in. In 1st gear though you can take advantage of the low gearing where the power band is less of an issue and rev it out to get an optimal start PRM going into 2nd.

23caldyno.jpg
 
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tcman54

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To me it all hinges on the turbo, dam these things seem to be finicky, just my opinion.

TC :ford:
 

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has anybody actually dyno'd there car yet? -.-
 

8borerifle

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Nice writeup, The Lion, lot of good info! Yes I noticed the best power was at 60 to 70 degrees on a dry day, you would think that a 30 degree day would be better, but the humidity does hurt the power. My 1984 Monte Carlo SS with the 87 GN motor acted the same way, you never know what it would do when you punched it!
So far there does not seemed to be any loss of gas mileage. This car is my daily driver in decent weather. I have a 2011 4Runner for snow days!
I think my only future mod will be a better intercooler. I must admit I was surprised at how much better the car performs with the FP tune!
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