How hard is it to run new door speaker wire? Anyone installed these speakers?

[xraystyle]

I've seen references here and there that it's a pain in the ass to run new speaker wire through the doors. Is this true? Anyone actually done it?

I'm looking at replacing my stock speakers (Shaker system, no sub) with this component set from Focal: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-lRRMjOEvzWO/p_091165AS3/Focal-Performance-165AS3.html

I'm gonna do the rear deck speakers as well, add an amp and probably a sub.

Looking at the wiring diagram, the 3.5" door speaker and the tweeter in the pillar are wired in parallel. I can't use the existing wiring for all the speakers if that's the case. I suppose I could just run new wire to the tweeter and tape of the existing wires, that way the 6.5 and 3.5 would have separate wiring running through the crossover that comes with the speaker set.

Thoughts? Has anyone installed these speakers before? Any issues with mounting depth or anything like that?

Also, is there any sort of passive crossover system in the existing wiring? "bass blockers" or any of that kind of crap that would need to be removed? Or does all the signal processing happen in the head unit and factory amp?

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[mumbles]

I've seen references here and there that it's a pain in the ass to run new speaker wire through the doors. Is this true? Anyone actually done it?
Short of removing the actual door, it's going to be quite difficult to run wires through the factory door connector.

I'm looking at replacing my stock speakers (Shaker system, no sub) with this component set from Focal: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-lRRMjOEvzWO/p_091165AS3/Focal-Performance-165AS3.html
Looks like a decent set, but I'm personally not a fan of metal dome tweeters... I find them to be a little harsh, ymmv.

I'm gonna do the rear deck speakers as well, add an amp and probably a sub.

Looking at the wiring diagram, the 3.5" door speaker and the tweeter in the pillar are wired in parallel. I can't use the existing wiring for all the speakers if that's the case. I suppose I could just run new wire to the tweeter and tape of the existing wires, that way the 6.5 and 3.5 would have separate wiring running through the crossover that comes with the speaker set.
The way I'd do your system would be to use the three connectors from Mouser at the beginning of the wiring thread. Those connect to the plugs that are connected to the factory amp (assuming you have the 400a/401a system). Run wires from your passive crossovers to the 6.5" & 3" pins on the plugs and wires from the tweeter output of your passive up the a pillar to the tweeters as you mentioned. Then run wires from the input of your passive to your amp.

Thoughts? Has anyone installed these speakers before? Any issues with mounting depth or anything like that?

Also, is there any sort of passive crossover system in the existing wiring? "bass blockers" or any of that kind of crap that would need to be removed? Or does all the signal processing happen in the head unit and factory amp?
There are caps on the tweeters, but other than that, things are handled by the head/amp

 

[15RRGT]

I nearly finished my audio system install yesterday and as an experienced installer, forget running new wires into the doors unless as stated above you pull the door off and modify the connection.

 

[ForTehNguyen]

not sure what the big issue is, i ran wires from the amp in the trunk through the headliner, A pillar, then brought it through the door. There is a rubber grommet on the door you can cut a slit in to fish a wire in to run the woofers and mids. My system didnt use components but I have an 8 channel amp so each speaker had its own wire run, im sure you can figure something out with components

heres the grommet, I used heat shrink and wire braid also

 

[KevinG]

On my 14 year old Acura, I unplugged the door grommit while the door panel was off. Taped speaker wire to a coat hanger (with the end bent over) and pushed through fron the door into the cabin. Somehow it worked, so not sure how accessible the Mustang will be...

 

[scott_0]

On my 14 year old Acura, I unplugged the door grommit while the door panel was off. Taped speaker wire to a coat hanger (with the end bent over) and pushed through fron the door into the cabin. Somehow it worked, so not sure how accessible the Mustang will be...

lol not even close to that easy, molex connections and tight spaces make it a tough job! I ran speaker wire in my 2011 Mustang doors and my hands looked like I got in a fight with an angry cat! :eyebulge:

 

[15RRGT]

not sure what the big issue is, i ran wires from the amp in the trunk through the headliner, A pillar, then brought it through the door. There is a rubber grommet on the door you can cut a slit in to fish a wire in to run the woofers and mids. My system didnt use components but I have an 8 channel amp so each speaker had its own wire run, im sure you can figure something out with components

heres the grommet, I used heat shrink and wire braid also

The potential issue is the wire hanging down from the a pillar is basically unsupported and if it moves around (which it will to some degree) and gets caught in the door hinge then it won't be long until it's damaged....worse case it shorts to ground and fries your amplifier.

 

[xraystyle]

ForTehNguyen, that's actually really helpful should I need it. I think that since I'm gonna go with a component setup, I'll just have to run new wire to the tweeter.

I'll see if I can park a 5 channel amp under the seat, and probably stick a JL Stealthbox in the trunk.

 

[cthomp21]

I ran speaker wire from my Polk crossover mounted in the door to the tweeter through the molex connector. I used some very small gauge wire and drilled through some unused spots on each side of the molex connector. Was a big pain in the a$$, but my wiring is protected and looks factory.

 

[carcinoid]

I did what ForTehNguyen did. It was kind of a pain to do it, but I'm happy with how it turned out.

 

[KevinG]

Drilling through unused molex connector holes and pulling wires through is the way to go...

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