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Buying Out of State

Shift

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For what it's worth: I'm in Cali, and my car is on the east coast. I'm going to ask my salesman to send close up pics of the car, especially at the under hood area. If it's all good, I'm going to book the next flight there, and barring unforseen circumstances, I'm going to be driving it back 3k miles.
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I bought my 2016 DIB Tech out of state, sight unseen, and had never even seen or sat in a GT350!! Drove it home 475 miles with my 16 year old, the exhaust open, both grinning ear to ear, and didn't even turn on the stereo. Best road trip of our lives...

Go for it! The dealer was super accomodating and knew he could sell it to others. He said if I didn't like it, didn't fit in, or it was anything less than advertised when I got there, I could walk away. Rented a car one way and he even returned my rental!

The transactions (I have purchased 3 vehicles out of state) are always the easy part. Other advice to avoid snags:

1) If you drive it, get in-transit or a dealer plate to avoid paying taxes in the state of origin that you would have to get refunded or credit in your state. Pay taxes and license it when you get home.

2) Regardless of how it gets home, in order to have smooth transition, MAKE SURE the dealer gives you the Manufacturer Certificate of Origin (the car's "birth certificate") from Ford with both the 1st section (transfer) and the 5th section (odometer disclosure statement) filled out, signed, and notarized. You will also have to sign section 5 that the odometer was correct. You can fill out the lien section yourself if you have a loan.

3) Helpful for the dealer to also sign/notarize a VIN verification statement so you don't have to take the actual car to the DMV, AAA, etc. (especially after you have sent back the out of state dealer plate!)

4) Make sure to have MCO, bill of sale, proof of insurance, driver's license, and VIN verification and several checks (one for $4000+ :eyebulge:)

Hope this helps. Good luck!!
These are awesome advice. I actually copy and pasted 2 and 3 to my contact.
Question, what is MCO and why would I need several checks and $4k, sorry for the novice questions.
 

Shift

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I bought my 2016 DIB Tech out of state, sight unseen, and had never even seen or sat in a GT350!! Drove it home 475 miles with my 16 year old, the exhaust open, both grinning ear to ear, and didn't even turn on the stereo. Best road trip of our lives...

Go for it! The dealer was super accomodating and knew he could sell it to others. He said if I didn't like it, didn't fit in, or it was anything less than advertised when I got there, I could walk away. Rented a car one way and he even returned my rental!

The transactions (I have purchased 3 vehicles out of state) are always the easy part. Other advice to avoid snags:

1) If you drive it, get in-transit or a dealer plate to avoid paying taxes in the state of origin that you would have to get refunded or credit in your state. Pay taxes and license it when you get home.

2) Regardless of how it gets home, in order to have smooth transition, MAKE SURE the dealer gives you the Manufacturer Certificate of Origin (the car's "birth certificate") from Ford with both the 1st section (transfer) and the 5th section (odometer disclosure statement) filled out, signed, and notarized. You will also have to sign section 5 that the odometer was correct. You can fill out the lien section yourself if you have a loan.

3) Helpful for the dealer to also sign/notarize a VIN verification statement so you don't have to take the actual car to the DMV, AAA, etc. (especially after you have sent back the out of state dealer plate!)

4) Make sure to have MCO, bill of sale, proof of insurance, driver's license, and VIN verification and several checks (one for $4000+ :eyebulge:)

Hope this helps. Good luck!!
I know in CA, the car has a mandatory car inspection by DMV officials only. I would have loved the convenience of a AAA center doing that part.
 
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I know in CA, the car has a mandatory car inspection by DMV officials only. I would have loved the convenience of a AAA center doing that part.
Question for you, is the sales tax refundable meaning, in the state where im buying the car, KS 9.4%, and in the count where i live in CA which is 8.25%. I am just assuming the tax in NY is more than in CA. Thanks!
 

geb78

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You will only pay tax to the county you register in. I once bought a car from MA and shipped to CA. The dealer in MA used a 3rd party registration/title company that registered it in CA before it was shipped. I paid the CA tax at the time I did the paperwork. The second option is you register it yourself when it arrives in CA and you pay the CA DMV the sales tax when you register. KS I'm guessing would have some type of temp tag to let you transport out of the state.
 

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Congratulations on your MSRP purchase!! Well Done.

Most states don't require out of state buyers to pay tax until they register the car in their home state. Ask the dealer about the refund procedure if they make you pay. Dealer's fees will be paid at purchase if they charge them. Lots of good advice in the California section of the forum on bringing one home to the Golden State. Oh there is a fee calculator on the DMV website that will tell you precisely what it will cost if you pay the taxes when you get back.

I might be tempted to drive home from KS. Lot's of great and scenic roads through SW Colorado and N. Arizona.

My late 2016 order got converted to a 2017 order. I will pay 5k ADM, but with a custom order and without shipping cost I'm OK with it. I only have to drive home from the Sacramento area. What part of the SoCal are you in? Might run in to you at C&C in Aliso Viejo sometime. Look for a Ruby Red in a few months.
 

krt22

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Depends on the state, some collect sales tax and you get a credit with the dmv, some don't collect and you pay it all to CA. If KS collects tax and its higher than your county rate I think you are SOL, just gotta pay the extra
 

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I just went through this. Since it's a new car with a warranty I wasn't too worried about buying sight unseen. My dealer used a third party registration company named Jupiter, and it was as if the deal was done in WA instead of PA. They sent me a PA temp plate and my WA plates come in the mail. That service cost about $150....well worth it.

I didn't want to drive that far, especially without a clear bra installed, so I shopped around quite a bit for transport. Companies like Reliable and Intercity are big money. I ended up going with a broker, 4corners transport. They were great. With the broker fee I ended up paying 1k less for transport than I would have with one of the name brand companies. The broker specified my need for hydraulic lift and enclosed transport because of the splitter. Car came with 6 days. No issues or concerns. Good luck.
 

1BlackSheep

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Question, what is MCO and why would I need several checks and $4k, sorry for the novice questions.
When you go to DMV, AAA, or a messenger service, you need a check for state sales tax (PA is 7% so $60K x .07 = $4200). The other check is for the BS title fees, etc that were about $70 in my case. Your home state will send title to you or your lender bank (if you financed it).

In PA, inspection can be done anywhere in next 10 days.

Hope this helps. Let us know when it happens!

Edit: Sorry, MCO is the Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin I spoke of previously...
 

1BlackSheep

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For what it's worth: I'm in Cali, and my car is on the east coast. I'm going to ask my salesman to send close up pics of the car, especially at the under hood area. If it's all good, I'm going to book the next flight there, and barring unforseen circumstances, I'm going to be driving it back 3k miles.
You're my idol!! Document it and post your journey through this great land! :hail:
 

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You will only pay tax to the county you register in. I once bought a car from MA and shipped to CA. The dealer in MA used a 3rd party registration/title company that registered it in CA before it was shipped. I paid the CA tax at the time I did the paperwork. The second option is you register it yourself when it arrives in CA and you pay the CA DMV the sales tax when you register. KS I'm guessing would have some type of temp tag to let you transport out of the state.
Thanks!
Another novice question, usually the taxed are added to the loan of the car but since i am purchasing out of state and physically registering the car at the DMV, does this mean i will pay the registration and taxes at the time of registration?

Congratulations on your MSRP purchase!! Well Done.

Most states don't require out of state buyers to pay tax until they register the car in their home state. Ask the dealer about the refund procedure if they make you pay. Dealer's fees will be paid at purchase if they charge them. Lots of good advice in the California section of the forum on bringing one home to the Golden State. Oh there is a fee calculator on the DMV website that will tell you precisely what it will cost if you pay the taxes when you get back.

I might be tempted to drive home from KS. Lot's of great and scenic roads through SW Colorado and N. Arizona.

My late 2016 order got converted to a 2017 order. I will pay 5k ADM, but with a custom order and without shipping cost I'm OK with it. I only have to drive home from the Sacramento area. What part of the SoCal are you in? Might run in to you at C&C in Aliso Viejo sometime. Look for a Ruby Red in a few months.
Thank, i did use the calculator and was very helpful.
I would love to drive back but i just dont have the time due to the new home (1950 home lol) we just purchased.
I am in the Fontana area and i will definitely go down there sounds like a nice drive to OC.

Depends on the state, some collect sales tax and you get a credit with the dmv, some don't collect and you pay it all to CA. If KS collects tax and its higher than your county rate I think you are SOL, just gotta pay the extra
i hope not but that will be one of the questions i will ask the dealer but hopefully one of the members here has had experience that can chime in on this.

I just went through this. Since it's a new car with a warranty I wasn't too worried about buying sight unseen. My dealer used a third party registration company named Jupiter, and it was as if the deal was done in WA instead of PA. They sent me a PA temp plate and my WA plates come in the mail. That service cost about $150....well worth it.

I didn't want to drive that far, especially without a clear bra installed, so I shopped around quite a bit for transport. Companies like Reliable and Intercity are big money. I ended up going with a broker, 4corners transport. They were great. With the broker fee I ended up paying 1k less for transport than I would have with one of the name brand companies. The broker specified my need for hydraulic lift and enclosed transport because of the splitter. Car came with 6 days. No issues or concerns. Good luck.
I will definitely ask about the 3rd party registration. Also does this mean that the tax and registration was combined into the loan instead of paying it out right to the DMV?
 
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When you go to DMV, AAA, or a messenger service, you need a check for state sales tax (PA is 7% so $60K x .07 = $4200). The other check is for the BS title fees, etc that were about $70 in my case. Your home state will send title to you or your lender bank (if you financed it).

In PA, inspection can be done anywhere in next 10 days.

Hope this helps. Let us know when it happens!

Edit: Sorry, MCO is the Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin I spoke of previously...
I missed this, this is very helpful, thanks! Pics will be up when she is here, fingers crossed
 
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If you have The Certificate of Origin you can register it at AAA, you will need a smog cert as well. No DMV hassle for me.
Speaking of AAA, I wonder if they have discounts or sister companies that provide car transports.
 

Shift

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[MENTION=11872]bobmclean[/MENTION] and [MENTION=23415]1BlackSheep[/MENTION]

Calling my dealer first thing Monday, thank you guys
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