K&N Drop-In Air Filter

[MrWolf]

Cool, thanks for the swift reply

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[MyMilkshake...]

Interesting, I will be using an aFe Dry Pro S rather than a K&N as I don't like oiled filters (MAF sensors etc)

You can now laugh at all the CAIs ;)

 

[Gibbo205]

Interesting, I will be using an aFe Dry Pro S rather than a K&N as I don't like oiled filters (MAF sensors etc)

You can now laugh at all the CAIs ;)

That is what I have in mine, filters well and hopefully flows a little better. I also dislike oiled filters for same reasons.

 

[MrWolf]

Interesting, I will be using an aFe Dry Pro S rather than a K&N as I don't like oiled filters (MAF sensors etc)

You can now laugh at all the CAIs ;)

You now got me thinking which way to go.

Excuse my ignorance, what advantage would there be to go with the dry filter compared with the oiled?

 

[stevec]

This.

As I explained our ECU's knock sensor can go into negative knock upto -8.0 degrees which means it can advance the timing (upto a pre-programmed limit) this allows the car to maintain factory power levels or make a little extra based on following:
- Higher flow volume detected by maf sensor from more air direct to air box or a higher flow filter.
- Lower intake temperatures
- Higher octane and better quality fuel.


My car on stock map was regular reading around -4.00 degrees of negative knock allowing for timing advance which in turn makes more torque and power.

On the SCT map it went all the way to -8.00 negative knock briefly.


Doing everything you can to reduce intake temps, increase air flow past the maf sensor (so before the sensor) and better fuel will not only mean the ECU never retards timing (reduces power) but also means it can advance timing resulting in a car running at optimal factory configuration and making claimed figures or even potentially a little extra.


Don't waste your money on cold air kits etc. etc.


My advice to make stock power or maybe a little extra:
- Panel filter (£50)
- Direct more air into airbox cut out honey combs in grill (£0)
- Velossa big mouth to create RAM AIR effect (£75)
- Heat shield wrap for intake manifold (£50)
- Shell Vpower Octane 99


The above compared to a complete stock car on regular fuel should feel more alert and pull harder throughout, but were not talking major difference, maybe a car length by 100mph, the driver makes the biggest difference, or if its an AUTO vs a MANUAL then the AUTO is generally worth at least 50BHP over a long stretch of WOT acceleration due to no time lost in gear changes.


If your happy to dismiss your warranty on the engine/drivetrain then best power adders come in form off:

- Tune: 15-25BHP and 30-60lb/ft gains (£150-£300)
- Cat deletes: Further 15-20BHP (£300-£600)
- Shelby intake 350 mani & TB, CJ mani etc: 20BHP or 50-60BHP gains at 7000rpm compared to regular intake where power falls off heavily. (£1000)
- Scrap all the above Roush or Whipple for a healthy 200BHP/200lb/ft gains and more (£5000-£8000)


If you throw a lot of money at this car you can get around 500BHP NA with the above and cams, don't forget about upgrading OPG/Gears along with a balanced crank pulley though ideally for high power NA build and supercharger build. NA to be quick you need to rev to 7500-8000rpm so you need to safeguard the engine and to be frank you still might spin a rod bearing requiring a bottom end rebuild if you catch it in time, or you might be just fine.

I am tempted by the 350 intake and TB route, I am also watching the Holley and Edelbrook intake manifold options as well. The cars stock limiter is 7000rpm and we have same engine internals as BOSS 302 which was limited at 7500rpm and sold by Ford a track focused car. I think with more frequent oil changes we are safe to 7500rpm though I'd personally probably only increase the limiter to 7200rpm with my reasoning being it is still possible to exceed the set rev limiter due to road speed. So when you hit stock limiter for example at 7000rpm accelerating hard say down hill in 2nd gear, it will no doubt actually bump to around 7200-7300rpm due to cars momentum and road speed.

High RPM's is a sure way to spin a rod bearing. I think I shall make a new thread anyway instead of taking this off topic with what I feel is best power upgrades for this car for those happy to throw the warranty away.

I have an imprint of my keyboard on my forehead now. I actually nodded off!

 

[Gibbo205]

I have an imprint of my keyboard on my forehead now. I actually nodded off!

It is OK I can bore the hell out of you on the Scotland trip.

 

[Gibbo205]

You now got me thinking which way to go.

Excuse my ignorance, what advantage would there be to go with the dry filter compared with the oiled?

I am not 100% sure but I am guessing an oiled air filter probably has less material meaning without the oil it would filter less. So the upside is better flow and the oil is required to ensure it catches all particles. If you ever datalog your car make sure to measure air flow rate past the maf sensor to see if any flow advantage.

The downside is sometimes excess oil can ruin the maf sensor, a good tip with an oiled filter is to wrap it in newspaper for 24hrs to draw out any excess oil before fitting.

 

[MrWolf]

Nice thanks.

I thought your post was very informative by the way... don't listen to the bad people!

 

[MyMilkshake...]

I am not 100% sure but I am guessing an oiled air filter probably has less material meaning without the oil it would filter less. So the upside is better flow and the oil is required to ensure it catches all particles. If you ever datalog your car make sure to measure air flow rate past the maf sensor to see if any flow advantage.

The downside is sometimes excess oil can ruin the maf sensor, a good tip with an oiled filter is to wrap it in newspaper for 24hrs to draw out any excess oil before fitting.

In short... Usually there isn't much difference in air flow between the two & companies use the oil for increased filtration (however they do allow larger particles into the engine but small particles less frequently), if you really want air flow use mesh filters

Although an interesting conversation (getting really serious) is that if the filter has oil on it but larger air pockets the pocket size is reduced by the oil and the oil Creates greater friction & air resistance compared to cotton meaning that oiled filters produce less air flow & turbulence reducing efficiency...

Good tip on reducing the oil on filters! However as long as there is oil on the filter the air entering the engine will have oil particles in it which slowly corrode the MAF sensor & get stuck to it producing false readings, messing up your AFR & fuel trimming resulting in potential engine damage (usually results in running lean creating greater friction & heat in the engine)

Personally I wouldn't use an oiled filter, hopefully that helps a little

 

[Gibbo205]

In short... Usually there isn't much difference in air flow between the two & companies use the oil for increased filtration (however they do allow larger particles into the engine but small particles less frequently), if you really want air flow use mesh filters

Although an interesting conversation (getting really serious) is that if the filter has oil on it but larger air pockets the pocket size is reduced by the oil and the oil Creates greater friction & air resistance compared to cotton meaning that oiled filters produce less air flow & turbulence reducing efficiency...

Good tip on reducing the oil on filters! However as long as there is oil on the filter the air entering the engine will have oil particles in it which slowly corrode the MAF sensor & get stuck to it producing false readings, messing up your AFR & fuel trimming resulting in potential engine damage (usually results in running lean creating greater friction & heat in the engine)

Personally I wouldn't use an oiled filter, hopefully that helps a little

Agreed and is why I have Afe Pro Dry filter, best of all worlds.

 

[MyMilkshake...]

Agreed and is why I have Afe Pro Dry filter, best of all worlds.

Couldn't agree more!

 

[MrWolf]

Couldn't agree more!

Thanks gents, AFe it is then.

 

[Centurion07]

Looking on here http://www.stage3motorsports.com/2015-Mustang-GT-5-0L-Cold-Air-Intakes.html there's two different aFe filters, one that uses 5 layers of mesh and the other that uses ? layers of mesh, with no other discernable difference. What's up with that?

 

[Gibbo205]

Looking on here http://www.stage3motorsports.com/2015-Mustang-GT-5-0L-Cold-Air-Intakes.html there's two different aFe filters, one that uses 5 layers of mesh and the other that uses ? layers of mesh, with no other discernable difference. What's up with that?

Clue is in the title, one is dry filter. ;)

5R flows the most, but is oiled.
5S is dry and flows better than stock.

All explained here:
http://afepower.com/technology.php

 

[Centurion07]

Doh, missed that.

One dry filter & modular tube on order then.

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