Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[shahram72]

OK, I have read the entire thread. I have the base audio and want to replace everything after the head unit. I know I need to make a T-connector to go behind the head unit so I can pull those 4 channels to the back and then from amps up front again. I will use separates so I will have to run wires to the A-pillars from x-over locations but that shouldn't be too hard. Do I understand correctly so far? Now the part numbers all seem to be for shaker audio so I am not sure that I understand what parts I need for my base audio. I would like to order the parts and get them soldered up before I even take anything on the car apart. I understand everything else. This is the biggest hurdle for me. Now did I read right somewhere that I can access the HU connectors from the passenger side without removing it? Sorry to be so nuts about this, I have to understand every part before I turn a single screw. I have done a few full installs back in the 90's but it was easier back then.

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[Techno]

I recently Replaced all of the Speakers added an infinity Bass link and Replaced the factory amp.In my 16 Ecoboost Premium 200A, I took some pictures of the various parts and thought someone might find them helpful.
Installed equipment.
Front
3.5 JBL 329
6.5 and A pillar JBL 609C
Rear Deck JBL 638
Amp Fosgate PBR300X4
Sub Infinity Bass Link.

Total cost $598.26
Very worth it!
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0xb8cxzilvp3n9f/AAAzTWwM0mJFGeWWbM-BI3HMa?dl=0

 

[shahram72]

I have been all over the internet looking for solutions. Looks like I'm gonna have to pay a shop to do this. I cannot beleive no one makes an adaptor for this car (base audio). I would make one myself but I can't find info on wiring or what plugs I need to buy for base audio. Everything I see if for premium. Is there not one person here who has added amps (not just a sub) to a base audio?

 

[assclown]

I recently Replaced all of the Speakers added an infinity Bass link and Replaced the factory amp.In my 16 Ecoboost Premium 200A, I took some pictures of the various parts and thought someone might find them helpful.
Installed equipment.
Front
3.5 JBL 329
6.5 and A pillar JBL 609C
Rear Deck JBL 638
Amp Fosgate PBR300X4
Sub Infinity Bass Link.

Total cost $598.26
Very worth it!
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0xb8cxzilvp3n9f/AAAzTWwM0mJFGeWWbM-BI3HMa?dl=0

Techno, very nice!

Where did you mount the component crossover (I didn't see it in the gallery)?

 

[Techno]

Techno, very nice!

Where did you mount the component crossover (I didn't see it in the gallery)?

NJ


Thanks, the crossover is attached with 3m grey double face tape to the bottom of the outer door skin. Unfortunately I have to remove the woofer to get to it. I should have left the tweeter button at 0db instead of +3 but I'll have to take the doors apart to change that.

 

[assclown]

NJ


Thanks, the crossover is attached with 3m grey double face tape to the bottom of the outer door skin. Unfortunately I have to remove the woofer to get to it. I should have left the tweeter button at 0db instead of +3 but I'll have to take the doors apart to change that.

Did you run new wiring to the doors for the components?

 

[Techno]

Did you run new wiring to the doors for the components?

I didn't have to, the gray plug on the amp has 8 wires for 4 speakers they are rear deck and front door woofers. Since the 3.5s came with there own caps.I used those and ran a new wire in the door to the input of the crossover then connected the tweeter output to the original factory wire for the 3.5 which is in parallel to the A pillar tweeters. Since I didn't connect those wires to the new amp they can kinda be used backwards as speaker wires from the doors to the A piller where I installed the tweeters from the component system.

 

[DoCtA.FlAkE]

I bought this amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63975_Pioneer-GM-D9601.html

for this subwoofer http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68196_Image-Dynamics-IDQ12-D4-V.4.html .

Will this amp be able to power this sub as well with new speakers?

Thanks!

 

[gundam83]

If I want to reuse the factory speaker harness instead of running new wires, I can just unhook the tweeters right? I want to put in an active speaker setup with 6.5 mid and 1.1" tweeter in the doors since the tweeter doesn't fit in the factory pillar location.

I then plan on tapping into the harness and running it to my aftermarket amp.

 

[Bobstang]

I bought this amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63975_Pioneer-GM-D9601.html

for this subwoofer http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68196_Image-Dynamics-IDQ12-D4-V.4.html .

Will this amp be able to power this sub as well with new speakers?

Thanks!

Looks like you got a mono amp which powers only one speaker, to put other speakers on there you would need a multi channel amp, preferably a 5 channel amp with a mono out for the sub.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_...tml?price_min=120&price_max=250&scrollTop=300

In the same range, otherwise an amplified box may be the route to go then get a separate amp for your other speakers.

 

[pumxee]

help...

I am looking to install the Hertz HSK 165
http://www.amazon.com/Hertz-HSK-165-Hi-Energy-Component/dp/B001KOYXGC

They have their own tweeter which will be put in the a-pillar.
My question is... The factory front speakers are parallel wired with the tweeters. Where do I tap into the front speaker wiring to install the Hertz speakers with the hertz tweeter and cross over.

 

[grumblin]

help...

I am looking to install the Hertz HSK 165
http://www.amazon.com/Hertz-HSK-165-Hi-Energy-Component/dp/B001KOYXGC

They have their own tweeter which will be put in the a-pillar.
My question is... The factory front speakers are parallel wired with the tweeters. Where do I tap into the front speaker wiring to install the Hertz speakers with the hertz tweeter and cross over.

Not enough info... Are you just replacing the stock speakers with better ones? Are you adding an amp? Are you using LOC's with an amp? Are you planning on using stock speaker wiring? There are too many options.

Tell us a little more about what you're doing.

 

[wildcatgoal]

If I want to reuse the factory speaker harness instead of running new wires, I can just unhook the tweeters right? I want to put in an active speaker setup with 6.5 mid and 1.1" tweeter in the doors since the tweeter doesn't fit in the factory pillar location.

I then plan on tapping into the harness and running it to my aftermarket amp.

You can do that as long as you disconnect tweeter in A-pillar.

 

[wildcatgoal]

NJ


Thanks, the crossover is attached with 3m grey double face tape to the bottom of the outer door skin. Unfortunately I have to remove the woofer to get to it. I should have left the tweeter button at 0db instead of +3 but I'll have to take the doors apart to change that.

That crossover won't last very long between the inner and outer door skin. That is an area that can get wet, especially at the bottom. Also a humid area, one reason why there are vapor barriers on most cars in the doors. I have seen TONS of people do this and come in and say that their speakers aren't working and I investigate to find a crossover mounted to the outer door skin either still stuck on but rusted and corroded to hell and/or the 3M tape they used failed and it has been banging around in the door and wires became disconnected. If you are putting a crossover in the door (not best practice) then it should be placed in-between the door card and the inside-facing inner door skin on the side of the vapor barrier that faces the inside of the car, usually attached to some pocket on the door card with epoxy, not 3M tape. But if it works for you, great.

 

[wildcatgoal]

I have been all over the internet looking for solutions. Looks like I'm gonna have to pay a shop to do this. I cannot beleive no one makes an adaptor for this car (base audio). I would make one myself but I can't find info on wiring or what plugs I need to buy for base audio. Everything I see if for premium. Is there not one person here who has added amps (not just a sub) to a base audio?

What are you looking for in an adapter? Like the speaker plug adapters that Crutchfield provides so you don't have to cut wires or something to tap into the factory radio/amplifier? The companies that make the former are often 2-years behind, but often you can use adapters intended for another Ford vehicle. I haven't taken my doors off yet to see what the plug looks like but more often than not it's the same as some other Metra plug adapter in inventory. Most of the time we just cut the wires because (1) folks don't want to pay for the adapters which we do not give away for "free" and (2) it's unnecessary. I can simply cut the wire or tap the wire before the plug and accomplish the same thing so it saves the customer money and 90% of the time they don't care at all how we connect the speaker, so long as it works! Haha. But we do it right... just not usually with plug adapters. Actually, often, I can break apart the stock speaker and use that as a very good speaker mount and retain the plug in the OEM speaker housing and just solder wires to that. If you're wanting a Y-plug setup to tap signal and return signal post-amplification via stock wires, you'll have to make that. A car audio shop won't make those (unless you pay them to, that takes time and labor). If they're doing things right, they'll cut the wiring behind the radio or at an amplifier to take source signal solder to 9-wire going to the trunk and 9-wire back to the front to bring the amplified signal to the stock speaker wires and they solder that return feed to the other side of the cut OEM speaker wire. You can always reconnect the stock wiring harness when you sell... it takes minutes.

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