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ATI Damper Install

RBS550

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Okay so we've all seen the Damper upgrade before, but this so easy that it should not be put off. Now what you will see that is different is the way I installed it. I'm Old School and I do not like using a bolt for the install, a bolt is being twisted against your crank threads, a stud is put in by hand and you have a straight pull on the threads, like head studs. Then once seated the nice new ARP bolt only has to retain the Damper and in my case being N/A there are way less forces trying to pull the Damper off. You will also see I heated the Damper up, this makes the hole slightly larger easing the stress needed to drive it down.
Now if you prefer to do the same you will need 12Mx1.5 150MM long (6") all thread. I got mine through McMaster Carr it was 300MM long enough for two, the nut I picked up at ACE Hardware. So get a friend to split the cost, you will each have one and can start a Tool Rental business lol.
I use Witeout to let me know if anything has moved over time, with just a glance.

Yes I'm installing the Watson K-member & manual rack, but that's another thread in the near future,
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Bolting 1.jpg
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Nice job. That K-member looks nice.
 

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RBS550

RBS550

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I have been using this tool for years

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1025/overview/


ATI makes the best dampers without question but I dont feel the stock
one needs to be replaced unless your planning mega amounts of HP and high RPM
I have the same installer back at my shop 1,400 miles away in FL. but it still lacks the 12mmx1.5 thread needed and here I've shown you can make your own installer for $15. I'm a "Nuke Worker" I was only supposed to be here in Michigan for 4 weeks, that was Sept. 2013! We are really supposed to be done this April.
Most of what I do, I try to show it's not too hard and can be done without outfitting a shop to the hilt. Being 1,400 miles from my lift and all my tools has brought me back to my younger days, and shows it can be done. I've changed, exhaust, oil pump, ring & pinion, bushings in the rear, torque converter, intake, k-member and probably more, all on my back with hand tools, I'm in the 50 year old range and want to give the younger generation the spark to mod their Stangs and doing it with minimal tools helps to activate these youngsters.
And I agree the stock damper is fine and since it's NOT a balancer your engine will not go out of balance like the old push rod days did. But as you said with high RPMs and I'm going 8K+ I felt it was cheap insurance. Now my rods are the weak link!
 
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RBS550

RBS550

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What does going with an aftermarket damper get you?
I will not claim any power gains, but what you get is insurance, your bearings won't get beat out, think of it as cymbal, when it's hit hanging, it has tremendous harmonics going through it, now lay that cymbal on a pillow and hit it....the pillow is the damper adsorbing the harmonics, this is what your damper is doing, it's adsorbing harmful harmonics. Take some "Witeout" and draw a line across the rubber portion of your damper, pulley & hub and over time you will see the pulley is slipping, as this action accelerates the dampening capabilities of your stock damper are going away. This why you see me put "Witeout" across the ATI this gives me an indication of the condition of the damper as it ages.
 
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RBS550

RBS550

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I should also point out that the design of ATI's Super Damper will never slip and spin as a stock one can, as the outer shell of ATI's Super Damper is bolted to the hub. That being said in a car like mine it should be good for 10+ years before needing to be rebuilt.
 

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Are those your only mods in your signature? If so geez that's impressive! Can I assume this was on slicks at the track? Any weight reduction? Also, do you have a link where I can find the Damper? I was looking on Summit but for some reason I can't find it. Thanks man.
 
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RBS550

RBS550

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Are those your only mods in your signature? If so geez that's impressive! Can I assume this was on slicks at the track? Any weight reduction? Also, do you have a link where I can find the Damper? I was looking on Summit but for some reason I can't find it. Thanks man.
Yes those are my only mods at the time those passes were made. I was on 295/45/17 Mickey DRs (well broken in). Race weight down to right at 3,700 lbs. Trying to get more weight out now with a Watson k-member Aerospace Brakes and a Flaming River manual rack on the front.
I also had trouble finding the damper, even on ATI's site. Turns out it's the same as years before, nobody has taken the time to update the fitment guidelines on websites. That being said the part #918047. I notice some place list an overdrive option, with a larger pulley to spin the Super Chargers a little more, I didn't need that, there's also an option not to have the A/C pulley, so watch lower prices as I found they didn't include the A/C pulley.
If you go to YouTube and search RBS550 I have videos there from all spots on the car, even underneath.
 

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RBS550

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I should also mention it comes in three pieces, Hub, A/C pulley and the Outer Shell front pulley, the bolts you see come with it and you line the three pieces up bolt it together and torque as recommended by ATI.
 
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RBS550

RBS550

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Are those your only mods in your signature? If so geez that's impressive! Can I assume this was on slicks at the track? Any weight reduction? Also, do you have a link where I can find the Damper? I was looking on Summit but for some reason I can't find it. Thanks man.
Here's the label on the box.
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Here's the label on the box.
I used ATI balancers years ago when drag racing my fox body's. On a 5.0L with TFS hi port heads, lunati custom ground solid roller cam, Ross pistons and crower rods 12.5:1 through a Ron Anderson box intake and GT40 lower spraying it with a NOS plate system. Running through a Jericho DR-4 4 speed trans and a long VGate shifter. Best trans and shifter I ever had. I was running 8.60s then until I split the block right down the middle. The only thing that kept the block from comming apart completely was the Lakewood shatter prof bell housing. I even split the timing chain cover lol. I gave all the internal rotating pieces to my dad, he checked them out and installed them into a R302 block and it never skipped a beat. Then I built a 351 svo 4 bolt main block bored to 4.125 and a Bryant billet steel crank 3.75 stroke (401 cubic inch) with a set Ross Pistons and Oliver billet rods. Yates D3 heads and also a set of Brodix Neal heads at 13.5:1 and a Yates svo intake. Man I miss those days!!! Ati is a great balancer. 100%
 
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RBS550

RBS550

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I used ATI balancers years ago when drag racing my fox body's. On a 5.0L with TFS hi port heads, lunati custom ground solid roller cam, Ross pistons and crower rods 12.5:1 through a Ron Anderson box intake and GT40 lower spraying it with a NOS plate system. Running through a Jericho DR-4 4 speed trans and a long VGate shifter. Best trans and shifter I ever had. I was running 8.60s then until I split the block right down the middle. The only thing that kept the block from comming apart completely was the Lakewood shatter prof bell housing. I even split the timing chain cover lol. I gave all the internal rotating pieces to my dad, he checked them out and installed them into a R302 block and it never skipped a beat. Then I built a 351 svo 4 bolt main block bored to 4.125 and a Bryant billet steel crank 3.75 stroke (401 cubic inch) with a set Ross Pistons and Oliver billet rods. Yates D3 heads and also a set of Brodix Neal heads at 13.5:1 and a Yates svo intake. Man I miss those days!!! Ati is a great balancer. 100%
That's awesome, I can hear your car now, love the Long Vertigate shifters, I prefer a stick car. You definitely bring back some memories with that verbiage!:headbang:
 

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Do you know what the stock balancer weighs? I just got a Romac balancer for my GT350 and it weighs 9.1 pounds
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