Recent content by JAJ

The driver side crankcase vent is open to the atmosphere via the intake duct. Would need to be plugged.

I made this post last December: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/ronin-oil-drain-plug.118401/post-3893186 The basic message is "don't use anything other than the OEM plug on a Voodoo"

Relax! If it sits there like that for 20 years it'll be worth millions...

If you do a Google search on FR3V-4C159-AC it comes up as a part for the GT350R. Note that the first four characters in the part number - "FR3V" - designate it as an FP part from the 2015 model year. It might be used in the GT500 but it didn't start there.

The factory parts have an "Engineering Part Number" on them. The dealer parts department parts are sourced through a different supply chain and come with different part numbers that look similar but that aren't the same even when the parts are exactly the same.

That it's GT in GT350 clothing

The lower side stripes and red valve covers are definitely not OEM GT350. Does it have an "engine built by" sticker on the passenger's side valve cover? It might be worth putting the VIN into a VIN Decoder: https://www.fordpro.com/en-us/fleet-vehicles/vin-decoder-and-guides/ Just to see...

Yes, if the LCA connects to the knuckle behind the centerline of the strut, then it'll rotate the knuckle toward toe-in if it's too long. I'd be inclined to shorten the LCA a bit to straighten out the wheel. The steering tie rod is at the length that works for the OEM parts, so leave it...

It sounds like your matching the arm lengths was off by a very small amount, but in the confined quarters where the geometry it set, an error of 1 mm can change things a lot. At this point, have you measured the toe-in? It's not hard - requires a measuring tape, a couple of jack stands, some...

The steering tie rod is in front of the center of the axle, so you want to turn it so the front of the tire is pushed out to reduce toe-in/increase toe-out. Looking toward the inside face of the wheel from under the car (on either side), looking along the tie rod toward the rod-end, hold the...

Here's an idea of how you could do your own: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/track-alignment-setting.162531/post-3484610 As @galaxy said, once you've done your own, going to a shop loses a lot of its luster. The setup in @Tomster's post probably costs less than an shop alignment...

Good point on the weight - I run the heavy 30# OEM GT350 rims and I've got about the same, maybe a bit less, unsprung weight on the front than I'd have with factory brakes and GT350R CF rims. The rear is lighter too but about 7# heavier than rear CF rims would be. When I first ran the CCB's...

Your use case is within the capability of the factory brakes with maybe a pad upgrade. That said, if you want great braking combined with almost permanently clean wheels, CCB's are for you. I haven't scrubbed a wheel with soap and water in the last three years, including track days. CCB brake...

Has it had a crank relearn?

Whose spec is the 160 - 180 ft lbs torque? The factory torque for both of the outer control arm nuts is 76 ft lbs if you've got an SVT vehicle.